Hi to all I am currently looking to buy a chainsaw.Will be clearing a lot and using for firewood. Am looking at either a 16 to 18 bar.I do like the higher rpm's of these 2 saws.Which would be the best choice.Id appreciate any advice and thoughts
Dolmer 5100 vs Husky 346 XP
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wagonwheeler
ArboristSite Guru
Posts from users have the 5100s w/ more grunt and a better torque curve for firewood.
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sawinredneck
Addicted to ArboristSite
Honestly the 353 and 5100 would be a more fair comparison. The 353 has a broader tourqe range and will be more price comparative to the 5100. The 346 is very peaky, it wants to have the revs up and not be to loaded to cut. The 353 will "lug" better.
Andy
Andy
Hired Gun
ArboristSite Operative
Get the 346, and both bars. Keep it sharp, have fun and stay safe. just my 2 cents. 
sedanman
Just cut the piano!!
stan_1966 said:
Husky built their first saw in 1959. Dolmar did it in 1927, a little before Stihl even.
begleytree
H. sapiens moderatus
I think specs can be misleading.
I look up the dolmar 5100S specs and find it weighs the same as the ms280, and has the same hp as the ms290. but from real world use, my 5100S will not only outcut my 029 super, but my 360pro (and my 372xp in wood under 14" diameter). my 029 super, with the same hp rating, will not do that, not even close.
I say you need to hear from someone who has both saws and has ran them both in the same wood.
-Ralph
I look up the dolmar 5100S specs and find it weighs the same as the ms280, and has the same hp as the ms290. but from real world use, my 5100S will not only outcut my 029 super, but my 360pro (and my 372xp in wood under 14" diameter). my 029 super, with the same hp rating, will not do that, not even close.
I say you need to hear from someone who has both saws and has ran them both in the same wood.
-Ralph
sedanman said:
I think what he was referring to was there are more Husky dealers around, and their name is out there more than Dolmar.
Dolmar may have in fact been the first one man operated chainsaw, but no one knows it, and thats how to not sell saws.
Haven't we covered this topic a number of times? I'm confused.
wagonwheeler
ArboristSite Guru
computeruser said:
LOL! But this is actually the first time I remember the 346 being touted as a firewood saw. 353, 359, 357 and up yes. 346 w/ a 70cc big brother, yes. 346 has always come across as an ideal saw for a narrow scope of work - 5100 has come across as a very capable saw (perhaps not 'ideal' but dang close) over a broader scope. Just gives up weight to the 346.
HiredGun, would you really grab the 346 over a 5100s to cut firewood? What use do you have for 2-5100's - what 'niche' do you have them for? Or have you found them to be of little value since having owned them?
Chaser
manual
Addicted to ArboristSite
Looks like you need two dolmars.
One in the shop and one working.
I would think those smaller saws take a beating cutting fire wood.
One in the shop and one working.
I would think those smaller saws take a beating cutting fire wood.
wagonwheeler
ArboristSite Guru
Yep... and make one a 7900...
The high rpm of the 346 and 5100 is out of the wood, btw. They don't maintain that in the wood. No saw maintains it's max rpm in the cut. The more torque a saw has the less rpm it'll likely give up in the cut. Otherwise there would be no use for 361's, 365's, 372's and 460's and such...which are prime firewood saws.
Chaser
The high rpm of the 346 and 5100 is out of the wood, btw. They don't maintain that in the wood. No saw maintains it's max rpm in the cut. The more torque a saw has the less rpm it'll likely give up in the cut. Otherwise there would be no use for 361's, 365's, 372's and 460's and such...which are prime firewood saws.
Chaser
manual
Addicted to ArboristSite
Right, Fire wood cutting is hard on a saw. You are in a cut more then out of the cut. 16 inches at a time. Pice cutting atleast you give the saw a break.
A 246 or 5100 would be good for limbing. set in down and break out a larger saw.
If you are cutting out of a wood pile I would not even consider using a small saw. Why ? Because its not like you are lugging the saw all over the forest.
The heavier saw helps get through the cut and dissipates heat better.
And a extra bonus you get more wood cut.
If you had to have one saw get the bigger one. then as a "second" saw get the smaller one.
A 246 or 5100 would be good for limbing. set in down and break out a larger saw.
If you are cutting out of a wood pile I would not even consider using a small saw. Why ? Because its not like you are lugging the saw all over the forest.
The heavier saw helps get through the cut and dissipates heat better.
And a extra bonus you get more wood cut.
If you had to have one saw get the bigger one. then as a "second" saw get the smaller one.
wagonwheeler said:
I was thinking the same thing. It has come up before, but mainly with folks who want the "coolness" that they feel comes with owning a 346XP when they really need a 353 or 359 for the work they intend to perform.
Maybe my definition of firewood cutting is different from other people's, but I've always understood it to primarily involve cutting up trunks and large limbs. Lots of folks won't even bother with <5" limbs for firewood. Even in a 16" trunk that is twenty feet to the first branch (which is not huge by any measure), you're going to be much more efficient with a larger, torquey saw than with a limbing saw. And in anything larger than that, I can't see why you would want to waste your time blocking up with a 3 to 4 HP saw.
Last weekend we cut up a few full cords of sumac, ailanthus, and willow for firewood (to give away, I have no interest in burning it). Most trees were stand-grown, with long clear trunks and minimal branching. Diameters that were cut for firewood ranged from 6" to 18"; everything else was chipped. We had an 026Pro, a 6401, and a 7900. The difference in cut times between the 026 and the others was obvious, and this was with green, soft wood. If we were cutting for income, for production, or just had more stuff to cut, then I can't imagine wanting to be limited to an 026, 346, or the like. Save the little saws for limbing, as that is their specialty.
Freakingstang
Doctor Freakinstein
I disagree
For the guy that only wants one saw or can only afford one, the 5100 is a great all around saw with an 18" bar. I find I use my 5100 alot more than I should, just because it is the most powerful 50cc saw I have ever used.
For the guy that wants a bigger saw too, the 5100 is the perfect compliment.
The 7900 and 5100 are an excellant choice of two of the same brand.
A 346 and 372 are also a good choice.
Truth is, they are all great saws and there is too much debating on this site. Pick the saw that feels the best in your hands, has the adequate power for what you need, and has local dealer support.
For the guy that only wants one saw or can only afford one, the 5100 is a great all around saw with an 18" bar. I find I use my 5100 alot more than I should, just because it is the most powerful 50cc saw I have ever used.
For the guy that wants a bigger saw too, the 5100 is the perfect compliment.
The 7900 and 5100 are an excellant choice of two of the same brand.
A 346 and 372 are also a good choice.
Truth is, they are all great saws and there is too much debating on this site. Pick the saw that feels the best in your hands, has the adequate power for what you need, and has local dealer support.
Bingo. A saw is only as good as the parts pipeline. It sucks to be dead in the water while waiting on parts.
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Freakingstang said:
Right on the money!!!
