sunfish
Fish Head
Wow, I never expected to hear this much trouble with the DR !
Over 3 years now on my Super Split and all is well...
Over 3 years now on my Super Split and all is well...
DR Rapid Fire Rack & Pinion
- Thread starter VTWoodChucker
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sunfish
Fish Head
Yeah, ya have to give it to DR for great customer service!
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
It does seem like they provide excellent service, so perhaps this is the exception to the rule:
http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/245963.htm
Personally, I am surprised DR consider it in their best interests to persist with the 'guilty until proven otherwise' approach that thread seems to highlight.
Matthew Corwin
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Hey Beeve, In the new owners manual for the Dr Splitters it states that only maintenance free bearings are used and are expected to survive the estimated life of the splitter.. I wonder what the built in life expectancy is for the DR? The Supersplit's have serviceable main bearing blocks (zirks) and fewer metal against metal wear points throughout the machine. Mine was almost 30 years old when I sold it with no issues.
Matthew Corwin
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Hi All, Sorry to be such a bigmouth on my first day here but I have been having issues with a DR Pro XL that I bought yesterday. After weighing what I thought were the pros and cons between the Supersplit 'J' and the Dr. I decided to go with The DR because of the bigger flywheels (DR-74lbs) over (SS-60lbs) and the much better wheel and tow bar design of the DR.
The out the door price ($2200. no tax in NH) of the DR Rapidfire XL/electric start/worktable (reconditioned) was less than the Supersplit J with no engine and a worktable ($2494.)+ MA tax 6.25%. Soo.. it seemed like a nobrainer... turns out it wasn't.
The new DR has no 'camlock' mechanism like the SS. The SS is semi-automatic, when you actuate the control lever you can let go and the rack moves to the end of it's travel without holding onto the handle until the rack leaves the end of the camlock rollers and thereby releases the camlock and the rack springs up off of the pinion by the force of the rack lifting spring and returns to the start position automatically. The only time I ever got a kickback from my SS is when I was half-ass about engaging the camlock and then once in a while it would" just say no!"
The new DR is all about 'safety' and saving money on the design (pricepoint). They eliminated the mechanism all together in favor of a lever with a bearing on the end of it that does not go far enough back on the rack to give mechanical support ie; lock the rack down. Sooo you are the missing link in the chain. When the rack wants to come up, it's only your hand stopping it (ouch!).
Also, I am not sure why DR decided to use only one roller bearing on the rack hold down lever, it can only press in the center of the rack leaving the rack to twist a bit more than I think is tolerable. If the rack teeth are not engaged in alignment with the pinion gear it seems to me that this would cause premature wear of the R+P. Supersplit uses two large Tilton bearings (same ones as the ram side plates) to hold the rack down. I think if the rack is allowed to flex it might also contribute to the kicking problem. Oh and I guess I should mention my new machine kicks allot, it sucks, it makes it not fun.
I think that DR's design is nicer in some ways but the fact that they lightened up the construction materials and did not copy the actuating mechanism exactly makes the machine vastly inferior. There are Supersplits out there from the 1980's still working their tails off. I think the DR's will be more expensive in the long run.
The out the door price ($2200. no tax in NH) of the DR Rapidfire XL/electric start/worktable (reconditioned) was less than the Supersplit J with no engine and a worktable ($2494.)+ MA tax 6.25%. Soo.. it seemed like a nobrainer... turns out it wasn't.
The new DR has no 'camlock' mechanism like the SS. The SS is semi-automatic, when you actuate the control lever you can let go and the rack moves to the end of it's travel without holding onto the handle until the rack leaves the end of the camlock rollers and thereby releases the camlock and the rack springs up off of the pinion by the force of the rack lifting spring and returns to the start position automatically. The only time I ever got a kickback from my SS is when I was half-ass about engaging the camlock and then once in a while it would" just say no!"
The new DR is all about 'safety' and saving money on the design (pricepoint). They eliminated the mechanism all together in favor of a lever with a bearing on the end of it that does not go far enough back on the rack to give mechanical support ie; lock the rack down. Sooo you are the missing link in the chain. When the rack wants to come up, it's only your hand stopping it (ouch!).
Also, I am not sure why DR decided to use only one roller bearing on the rack hold down lever, it can only press in the center of the rack leaving the rack to twist a bit more than I think is tolerable. If the rack teeth are not engaged in alignment with the pinion gear it seems to me that this would cause premature wear of the R+P. Supersplit uses two large Tilton bearings (same ones as the ram side plates) to hold the rack down. I think if the rack is allowed to flex it might also contribute to the kicking problem. Oh and I guess I should mention my new machine kicks allot, it sucks, it makes it not fun.
I think that DR's design is nicer in some ways but the fact that they lightened up the construction materials and did not copy the actuating mechanism exactly makes the machine vastly inferior. There are Supersplits out there from the 1980's still working their tails off. I think the DR's will be more expensive in the long run.
Hi Matthew. I'm sorry to hear that you've run into problems with the new splitter. 
I had hoped DR's new design would have addressed those kinds of problems.
I had hoped DR's new design would have addressed those kinds of problems.I'm confused about this part of your post...did you have a super splitter before and no longer do? What happened to it that made you want to buy a Rapidfire instead?
nysparkie
ArboristSite Member
I am on my third year with an Original Model DR. Other than not checking the drive belt more often, comes off to tell me something, I have not had a lick of trouble. Cord after cord.....Ya the no towing is sometimes a issue, so I trailer it.
If it really bothered me i'd spring for the kit. Haven't had to yet. Kick backs, yes. Ram stop, yes..all due to big knots. But it hasn't cause any mechanical issues....knock, knock, knock on wood. I remain very satisfied.
Matthew Corwin
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Hi Matthew. I'm sorry to hear that you've run into problems with the new splitter.
I'm confused about this part of your post...did you have a super splitter before and no longer do? What happened to it that made you want to buy a Rapidfire instead?
Hi, New Rapidfire is going back. I think the original Rapidfire had a better control handle arrangement and did not have the problems I described with this years model. They changed it for safety reasons and they made it cheaper. A few things that stand out are the castings here and there and the fact that if you look closely at the beam you can see that it is not an 'I' or 'H' beam but two 'C' channels tacked together back to back to form a 'H'. It is lighter gauge than the SS for sure. The area between the two channels seeems to be filled with weld and ground flat but is not perfectly smooth so I worry that this will exacerbate a already known problem with this design as well.
Had an older (25 years or so) Supersplit that the first owner had not replaced the brass wear plate after many hundred cords so the ram/rack would get jammed from splinters getting under the worn out brass plate (this can happen even with a new plate but not as often and with much smaller splinters) The P.O.'s solution was to loosen up the six bolts on the ram side plates to get the splinters out and when doing so (frequently) he never re-adjusted it properly so there was some side travel and this resulted in the beam getting cut on the sides.
It was impossible to get the correct sideplay tolerance on the ram (pusher) sideplates. It still worked ok but I like my tools to be in spec. so after rebuilding it and running about ten cords through it this fall, I sold it.
The biggest problem (for me) with the Supersplit is it's mobility, really a pita to move around the woods. I am picking up another old one from a wood guy this weekend and I think when I rebuild it I am going to try to buy the parts from DR's newer model Rapidfire to do a retro wheel and stand onto the Supersplit.
The new unit I am picking up has the issue with wear on the top of the beam where the rack lift spring/wheel assembly had been left to drag down the beam till the wheel got square (common problem I hear) I think I might try a dual wheel arrangement to see if it's possible to straddle the groove that the old bearing left in the beam, anyone got any ideas about filling the groove on the top center of the beam?
sunfish
Fish Head
I'm sure there are a few original DRs' out there still working. You are one of the lucky ones!
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
Here is probably the most effective tinkerer of a super split machine I've come across. He sometimes posts on here. In his videos you'll find he uses followers running between the flanges rather than the lift bearing:
http://www.youtube.com/user/cucvs/videos
http://www.youtube.com/user/cucvs/videos
nysparkie
ArboristSite Member
Into my third year with my First Generation Rapid Fire. Approximately 250+ face cord split. Maintenance, yes. Like now, I have to adjust the carriage hold downs for tolerance. Have to keep the belts tight. Light grease in those areas the book says. Machine can sit for 4 months with some Sta Bil in the tank and in 3 pulls, fire right up. NO other issues. It keeps banging away and splitting like a monster. Elm, Ash, Rock Maple, Oak, Locust...bring it on. I am 62 and have been able to keep it up and why? The height of the machine, the large splitting table and keeping the chunks in a high enough trailer I don't have to bend over a million times. 27 inch diameter stuff? Bang it and roll it then bang it again...and again.... I bought the three year warranty and don't think I will get to use it. Original return springs are still working. Original belts...lost some orange paint, has some dents in places. I don't doubt and probably can say, I know, the Super Split would have done the same. Well I didn't buy that one due to the fact of the specials the DR folks ran when this machine first came out. I most likely would have been happy with either. I bought the Rapid Fire and am still smiling.
Started mine up this week after sitting for 4-5 months. I did run it dry last time though. Filled up the tank, checked the oil, belts, grease, etc. Still runs great. I do just as you do. I have an old military trailer that I bring my wood down in. From the trailer to the splitter and then to the Ranger to move to the barn. Not picking up the rounds from the ground is priceless. Having the trailer there as a work table is an awesome thing. I do wish the splitter sat a few inches taller, but it ain't a deal breaker. I am glad I don't have a two hander, great to have a free hand.
Shea
Shea
nysparkie
ArboristSite Member
I am 6 ft tall and like you, wish the machine sat somewhat higher. BUT; I am still NOT bent over like I was on my 27 ton hydraulic. That and not walking around to pick up 1/2 split chunk that fell to the wrong side is a blessing. One other thing I have found. I take a 55 gallon drum and place it to my side.(Where to place it would be your preference - I like it about 30 inches away) The larger chunks that take up too much splitter table space, I place on the drum. Work the other 1/2 and just grab the 1/2 on drum and bring it over to the table. That xtra room while working a bigger piece also aids in time and back issues. I am disappointed in DR for engineering so many issues into these newer machines. They should come out with a one piece, beefed up replacement ram(Something like that). I don't care about the cam lock feature. Although mine seems to, more so now after much use, cycle through the splitting stroke without me holding the handle forward. Does it all itself. I'll be tightening up the carriage hold this AM....don't want that horizontal slop on the ram. That would cause twisting issues which can be very bad to that ram....
macattack_ga
ArboristSite Operative
Busted the roller bearing that engauges the rack on my DR (again) this weekend.
Turns out there is a "update" available that DR is sending folks under warranty or not.
Don't know much more. I'll post pics when I get the parts.
Turns out there is a "update" available that DR is sending folks under warranty or not.
Don't know much more. I'll post pics when I get the parts.
nysparkie
ArboristSite Member
Another season under my belt and another starting. MY DR is still all original. I have not replaced, except for a flywheel cover bolt I couldn't find after dropping, one thing on my machine. I don't know how many cords...for myself last fall, 17 1/2. Plus 10 for relatives I gave out....Four years now and I am finally out of warranty.
Hope that does not portend anything.
Hope that does not portend anything.
Garandman
ArboristSite Lurker
Purchased a K55 in Summer 2014. Haven't used it a huge amount: maybe 5-6 cords. It's been flawless so far, and much much faster than a hydraulic.
Anyone have any updates? I am in the market for a kinetic. Right now I'm looking in order at the:
Split Second- like the height of the table, size of the flywheels (90lb), free shipping, and price (all things considered, they are all way too expensive)
SuperSplitter- of course a tank but it's working height is low, I would need the HD model so it's the most expensive.
Lastly and not sure I even want to try, the Dr 34 or whatever they call the big model. I'm wondering if they ever performed another update, it's been awhile since anyone posted. The only thing I like is the lower price but I also have found you get what you pay for.
I do like the 360 day trial period, of course I have to pay for shipping/return shipping if I don't like it.
Thanks fellas, Rye.
Split Second- like the height of the table, size of the flywheels (90lb), free shipping, and price (all things considered, they are all way too expensive)
SuperSplitter- of course a tank but it's working height is low, I would need the HD model so it's the most expensive.
Lastly and not sure I even want to try, the Dr 34 or whatever they call the big model. I'm wondering if they ever performed another update, it's been awhile since anyone posted. The only thing I like is the lower price but I also have found you get what you pay for.
I do like the 360 day trial period, of course I have to pay for shipping/return shipping if I don't like it.
Thanks fellas, Rye.
Garandman
ArboristSite Lurker
What are you splitting and how much of it?
Wider table seems useful if you use it a lot but also will take up more storage space. For heavy or professional use SuperSplit seems to be the choice. Their HD model has 100 lb flywheels but 75 seems plenty for most splits. I'd rather keep the table low for less lifting.
Would have ordered a SuperSplit because USA! but needed one right away and they didn't get back to me. Bought the DR on sale at the factory store in NH which closed. It looks like SuperSplit updated the website and say they're more responsive by phone. Prices seem within a few hundred of each other.
Wider table seems useful if you use it a lot but also will take up more storage space. For heavy or professional use SuperSplit seems to be the choice. Their HD model has 100 lb flywheels but 75 seems plenty for most splits. I'd rather keep the table low for less lifting.
Would have ordered a SuperSplit because USA! but needed one right away and they didn't get back to me. Bought the DR on sale at the factory store in NH which closed. It looks like SuperSplit updated the website and say they're more responsive by phone. Prices seem within a few hundred of each other.
