Draft issues with stainless chimney

[BeatCJ]

Not sure if you can get a chimney fire in a stove pipe but I imagine anything is possible.

Absolutely you can. Most commonly we see them early and late season, but a slow fall and a cold snap can do it too.

 

[sean donato]

I appreciate all the info...let me answer some of the questions.
The outside is a class A double walled insulated pipe I believe its Selkirk brand pipe from Lowe's .
I cleaned the entire chimney just before lighting it this fall so I'm certain it's clean .
My wood was cut last winter and stacked under roof so its been drying for a year now .
Sometimes I do dampen it off to try and get a longer burn overnight or when I'm away at work for the day.
It may be that I'm damping it down to much and not getting the flue gas got enough to keep the entire chimney hot enough to keep a good draft going .
I'm thinking maybe a double walled pipe inside the garage would help keeping it hot enough before exiting the building .
Thanks again
Ernie

No need for double wall inside the shop, unless you have a clearance issues. You have plenty of i salted chimney outside. Like I said, I'm running much less insulated chimney in the shop, with zero issues. Selkirk says in the instructions no more then 2-90* fittings installed in the entire run. So, you should be fine there. Thise joints are notorious for leaking/ just being garbage in general. One of the (many) reasons I went to a heavy walled stainless pipe and eliminated as many 90* fittings as possible. The shop has none, and the house I managed to get away with 1-90* fitting and 1- 30* fitting. Sealing up the slip joints would be advantageous. You can see in the pics of the shop stove, I had to cement where the T goes into the stove. I'm no fan of stove cement, but it does work. Just looks like crap 99% of the time.

 

[ErnieG]

No need for double wall inside the shop, unless you have a clearance issues. You have plenty of i salted chimney outside. Like I said, I'm running much less insulated chimney in the shop, with zero issues. Selkirk says in the instructions no more then 2-90* fittings installed in the entire run. So, you should be fine there. Thise joints are notorious for leaking/ just being garbage in general. One of the (many) reasons I went to a heavy walled stainless pipe and eliminated as many 90* fittings as possible. The shop has none, and the house I managed to get away with 1-90* fitting and 1- 30* fitting. Sealing up the slip joints would be advantageous. You can see in the pics of the shop stove, I had to cement where the T goes into the stove. I'm no fan of stove cement, but it does work. Just looks like crap 99% of the time.

Originally when I installed the stove I wanted to go straight up through the roof but I was advised by my roofer that with the gambrel style roof being very steep on the outer sides that the through the roof boot wont seal properly.
Id of had to put to offsets in the stove pipe upstairs in the garage to get to the upper section of the roof that's not as steep and I was worried about being able to clean it with the two offsets in the pipe .
I'm starting to wonder if I should redo it and just go straight up and out .
Ernie

 

[gggGary]

late to the party but some suggestions;
interior double wall adjustable length pipe pipe and elbow (kit)
https://duravent.com/literature/DV_DVL_CT_001E_04-24_web.pdf
Bonus this type pipe allows reduced clearance to combustables
Toss that janky single wall two elbows set up. even if you need to use a slightly longer horizontal pipe with double wall it'll be fine. Yes the joints must keep any moisture creosote inside the pipe. (top pipe inside)
I had to do this exact thing changing to double wall pipe and elbow to tame a basement stove's operation.

I can't find any info on that exact stove but it doesn't look like it has secondary burn. That old school stove will never be a great solution. You might skiv by with hot fires, not over damping. but wood heat is a tricky beast, a quality stove with secondary burn air/baffle will always be the better set up.
You initial instincts were best, keeping the chimney inside the building would have been a better solution. The decades tend to slip by. having the right system will pay you back with better operation and peace of mind.
Keep us in the loop We would like to hear back what you do and how it works for you.

 

[ErnieG]

late to the party but some suggestions;
interior double wall adjustable length pipe pipe and elbow (kit)
https://duravent.com/literature/DV_DVL_CT_001E_04-24_web.pdf
Bonus this type pipe allows reduced clearance to combustables
Toss that janky single wall two elbows set up. even if you need to use a slightly longer horizontal pipe with double wall it'll be fine. Yes the joints must keep any moisture creosote inside the pipe. (top pipe inside)
I had to do this exact thing changing to double wall pipe and elbow to tame a basement stove's operation.
View attachment 1225424
I can't find any info on that exact stove but it doesn't look like it has secondary burn. That old school stove will never be a great solution. You might skiv by with hot fires, not over damping. but wood heat is a tricky beast, a quality stove with secondary burn air/baffle will always be the better set up.
You initial instincts were best, keeping the chimney inside the building would have been a better solution. The decades tend to slip by. having the right system will pay you back with better operation and peace of mind.
Keep us in the loop We would like to hear back what you do and how it works for you.

I would like to go with that type setup but I wouldn't have the clearance from the wall to the stove .
I have to go with two 90s rolled around to make it work .

Ernie

 

[gggGary]

Something like this at the stove should do it?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3862527049...uid=tW1migcmQPO&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[sean donato]

Originally when I installed the stove I wanted to go straight up through the roof but I was advised by my roofer that with the gambrel style roof being very steep on the outer sides that the through the roof boot wont seal properly.
Id of had to put to offsets in the stove pipe upstairs in the garage to get to the upper section of the roof that's not as steep and I was worried about being able to clean it with the two offsets in the pipe .
I'm starting to wonder if I should redo it and just go straight up and out .
Ernie

Steel roof on my shop, no rubber boots. Just the roof plate it came with and a bit of flashing between the peak of the roof and the roof plate. It spans between 3 high points of the metal roof. The house is more or less the same way, except it just sticks into the eve vs penetrating the roof fully. I think they offered a different roof plate for steep pitched roofs. It's pretty big so I'm not certain sealing it would be much of an issue even on a shingled roof.

 

[moresnow]

Sooo? The stove/connector pipe appears to be installed upside down?
Hard to tell by the photos but each connector pipe segment should be male end down. No dripping/leaking.
I read through this but wasn't sure this had been discussed.
The Class A outside should not hurt anything as long as the cleanout cap on the bottom is seated/sealed correctly and the horizontal segment doesn't run downhill. Very important.

It looks like your fuel supply is wet. Grab a fleabay moisture meter and check it out. Something to consider. Best of luck.

 

[ErnieG]

I'm currently waiting on a 15degree connector to come off the stove and eliminate that other adjustable fitting with the leaky joints and I am running all the joints so they drain back to the stove .
I'm also using stove pipe sealer in each joint to keep them air tight to eliminate any air being pulled in from anywhere besides the stove .
I'll keep everyone posted when I get it back together.

Thanks
Ernie

 

[sean donato]

If you don't mind sharing, where in PA are you located? There are a fair few of us in here that live in PA.

 

[ErnieG]

If you don't mind sharing, where in PA are you located? There are a fair few of us in here that live in PA.

I'm in.NEPA ...Wilkes Barre/Scranton areas

 

[sean donato]

I'm down in Lebanon. If you can't get it figured out, and want some help my schedule goes back to normal after the new year. You're not too far a drive.

 

[ErnieG]

I'm down in Lebanon. If you can't get it figured out, and want some help my schedule goes back to normal after the new year. You're not too far a drive.

I appreciate that ...let's see what happens when I get my fitting and get it back together!
Ernie

 

[ErnieG]

Ok so I got the 15degree fitting on just above the stove and all the joints running the rite way and sealed now I have another issue.
I got a good fire going and everything seemed good but after refilling it and I came back the garage was full of smoke ?
I ran the brush up the chimney again just to be sure it's clean .
I'm at a loose here ...I've never had this issue till now and I don't think I hindered the draft at all if anything it should have helped.
Could it possibly be the stove itself?

 

[ElevatorGuy]

Sounds like your closing air off too much for too soon.

 

[sean donato]

Just need to burn it hot for a while before damping down. It takes a while to get used to how to run a specific stove. Keep flue temps above ~300*f and toi shouldn't have any major problems.

 

[ErnieG]

I did keep the door cracked for a bit after filling it with wood till it picked up a bit then after closing the door I get puffs of smoke out the vents and for lack of better terms a helicopter prop sound from the door vents .
I took a video of it but it won't let me post it ...to large of a file .

Ernie

 

[sean donato]

It's back drafting of its doing that. Not burning hot enough to keep the draft string enough. The house furnace will do that every now and then after a reload. Usually, I just open up the lower draft for a bit and watch the temp gauge in the pipe. Get it up to about 500* then close the draft back to its normal position. I actually think it's a design flaw in the baffle in it. It's not angles at all, and come out with a 6" gap at the front of the furnace. The shenandoah in the shop is basically the same design, however when I replaced the baffle after rebuilding it, I gave it a slight angle and I haven't had it fart back at me during a refil.

 

[ErnieG]

Would a draft inducer help or maybe a more efficient stove .. something newer ?

Thanks
Ernie

 

[sean donato]

Both could be an option, the newer epa stoves need pretty well seasoned wood to function properly, and maintained in a certain burn zone for proper function of the catalytic converter or secondary system.
A draft inducer on a timer could work well too. Need to be careful there, as sizing it too big could cause the fires to runaway and over heat the stove. A thermo switch would be good to wire in so it's shut off if the temp gets too high.
I really don't think it isn't nessisary once you figure out how to run the stove/ have good dry wood to burn. All signs are pointing to to either wet wood, or burning too cool, which I think is causing your draft issues. A wood stove is just an appliance that requires a bit of attention to keep running right, outside of going full on electronic Controls with a feed back loop you just need to get used to keeping up with it.