Eager Beaver 2.1 Smoking Chain Oil

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JoeRich

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All,

My apologies if this has been addressed before. I'm new to the forum so am unware of how to get around good yet.

I have a model 60013203 McCulloch Eager Beaver 2.1. Just replaced fuel line and filter, impulse tube and spark plug. She now starts and runs, but is blowing smoke like a coal fired steam engine. I'm just starting to learn 2-cycle repair and am not a super wrencher. Any help or suggestions?

Thanks in advance,
Joe
 
All,

My apologies if this has been addressed before. I'm new to the forum so am unware of how to get around good yet.

I have a model 60013203 McCulloch Eager Beaver 2.1. Just replaced fuel line and filter, impulse tube and spark plug. She now starts and runs, but is blowing smoke like a coal fired steam engine. I'm just starting to learn 2-cycle repair and am not a super wrencher. Any help or suggestions?

Thanks in advance,
Joe
Go to the chainsaw forum, click on “ stickies “, scroll down about half way down to the mini Mac thread, lotsa good info.
 
Wait, so is the chain smoking or the engine?


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My little Homelite XL2 smokes. Duckbill in place so I figure there must be an oil line or seal that goes through the crankcase that is deteriorating. Still oils the chain though.
I don't know. Thought about tearing it all down a few times for a few seconds.
 
Too much oil in the gas? Not sure on thoes


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My little Homelite XL2 smokes. Duckbill in place so I figure there must be an oil line or seal that goes through the crankcase that is deteriorating. Still oils the chain though.
I don't know. Thought about tearing it all down a few times for a few seconds.
Yeah problem is bar oil forms abrasive deposits in your cylinder. Many of 610 macs went down from this.
 
I've worked on several of these McCulloch saws with the vacuum operated pulsating oilers and all would leak the chain oil into the engine. Some would only do it when sitting overnight, to the point where the engine would get hydrolocked with the bar oil and I had to remove the spark plug to drain out the oil in the cylinder. In this case, I would empty the bar oil tank prior to storage and just add it before use. This worked good and the engine wouldn't pull in the bar oil into the engine when running and the bar oiler would still function properly. On another saw, the diaphragm on the oiler would pass bar oil during running and the saw would produce massive amounts of blue smoke which would stop when I emptied the bar oil tank. I ended up swapping a NOS oil pump and that fixed the problem but these pumps are over $30 on ebay. In the end because of this issue, I stopped accepting trade-ins or doing any repairs on this series of saw. My recommendation is to empty the bar oil tank and run the saw and see if the heavy smoke goes away. If so, either replace the oil pump/diaphragm assembly or use the saw sparingly on small limbs and spray lubricant on the bar after a few cuts.
 
That particular model (300 Series) has an impulse operated oil pump driven by the alternating pressure/vacuum from the crankcase. There is no diaphragm like the 600 Series. Either the o-ring at the base of the automatic pump has failed or the piston is worn badly allowing oil to pass through.

If the saw has been setting for a while, try running it for a minute or so to see if it clears up after running all the residue out of the crankcase. If not, you will have to investigate further.

Mark
 
That particular model (300 Series) has an impulse operated oil pump driven by the alternating pressure/vacuum from the crankcase. There is no diaphragm like the 600 Series. Either the o-ring at the base of the automatic pump has failed or the piston is worn badly allowing oil to pass through.

If the saw has been setting for a while, try running it for a minute or so to see if it clears up after running all the residue out of the crankcase. If not, you will have to investigate further.

Mark
Pay close attention, OP!:cool:
 

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