HELP husqvarna 272xp hard to pull

[Alanmurphy6912]

It looks like the crankshaft did not have a radius cut into the shaft. On a TS420 cutoff saw I rebuilt the OEM crank had a nice radius cut into it which matched the bearing radius. Did the original bearings have a radius? Looks like maybe they left the material there but didn't program the CNC to radius the material. Key is original bearing if it has a radius.

I'm not seeing a radius on the original crank or bearings. But maybe I'm not sure what I'm looking at. The inner race on the original bearings are the same on both sides as it appears to me. And same as the chinese bearings s also. I posted some pics of the cranks side by side and the one with the piston attached is the new chinese one.

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

can you take a sharpy and mark the bearing. to see if the inner /outer and balls are moving? my old 034 bearing froze and spun out the housing.

maybe the ignition is to far advanced?

I don’t think it is this, but have you checked the starter pulley? They warp or are split in the inside behind rope. Causes a lot of those hard to pull over problems that are overlooked

I have replaced the rope twice with 2 different sizes as the first one was a little too large so I went to the husky dealer and got the rope they said it calls for and used that. Also I cant tell if anything is warped with the inside pulley in tact can I? I just didnt wanna deal with rewinding the spring if it comes apart,but if I have to take the center bolt out and pull it apart to check I will. At this point I'm in so deep on hours and new parts and so forth I'm paying to fix it. Which isn't ideal but I want my customer to be happy. Lesson learned on chinese parts tho no matter what the customer wants I can no longer use these crap parts and lose my arse on hours and so forth. This has been a nightmare to say the least. I've built alot of stihls and a few other husqvarna s and NEVER had these kind of issues. Lol but I used original OEM and or hyway parts pro line,etc. Whatever wolf creek or the duke has in stock normally if I cant get it locally

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

Brings back memories. I used to race motocross professionally and I used Klotz 2 stroke oil.

Yes klotz is the oil I use in all my 2 stroke bikes saws equipment,sleds etc.. love it.

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

can you take a sharpy and mark the bearing. to see if the inner /outer and balls are moving? my old 034 bearing froze and spun out the housing.

maybe the ignition is to far advanced?

Oh and on the ignition timing thing,I was thinking this also and I noticed with the saw laying on its side mac side facing up obviously that when I put the flywheel on the crank it will slop back and forth quite a ways forward and back before putting the nut on tight. So there seems to be alot of room for me to set it where i want it however I'm not well versed in which is better or worse for a stock saw i assume advancing timing is better than retarding it? I just tried to hold it directly in the center of the play when I tightened it down

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

If it were me, I think I would be seating the case bearings a couple of thou deeper in the case halves (as orientated from the inside) or mounting bearings on crank, then pulling crank into bearings.
But if you factor in the time spent thus far- built once with OEM might have been a whole lot cheaper for the saws owner.

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

If it were me, I think I would be seating the case bearings a couple of thou deeper in the case halves (as orientated from the inside) or mounting bearings on crank, then pulling crank into bearings.
But if you factor in the time spent thus far- built once with OEM might have been a whole lot cheaper for the saws owner.

Right.not so much even cheaper for the customer because I cannot in good conscience charge him for all the hours I have into this,but for the amount of time and aggrivation it definitely woulda been better to go oem from the start. And i have the bearings oriented out sorta as far as they can go because 1 side has the oiler cover that recesses down into the bearing pocket and seals with an o ring. And the other has a seal that supposed to be like 2mm past flush but I have mine flush currently as not to put any pressure on the bearings and crank. The new to me used oem crank is coming in the mail today so I will see what I can do and I'll report back

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

Yes sorry I've taken it apart and put back together so many times with different parts and trying to figure it out that it's hard to even explain it properly. I do the same with the 2cycle oil on my finger and so on. Even with the plug out it turns sorta hard and I tore it down 2 nights ago and piece by piece as they came off I would turn the crank to see if it got better and it wasnt until I unbolted the case halves and started to split it apart that it became free. After I removed the chinese crank I re installed the old oem crank and it spins free as a bird. I think it's just the chinese crank that was the issue. And or maybe the case gasket being too thick or thin? I'm not really sure but I have all oem parts ordered and on the way. Crank expected to be delivered tomorrow so I will try again and report back

Alright sorry for the delay,but I got the new used crank in and new oem self bearings and seals gasket kit etc. And I cleaned and then lightly oiled and heated the inner races and slid the bearings on the crank by hand. No visible radius or obvious differences between new and old bearings and cranks. So then I heated bearing pocket and slid the entire set up into the mag side case half. Then set my puller up and heared the clutch side bearing pocket and the case half slid together almost all the way by hand. I then left the oiler bolted on basically as a bearing stop to make sure it doesnt bind up on that even tho I had already seated the bearing against the crank as far as it would go. I got the bottom end together and seemed to spin nicely. Maybe not smooth as glass and loose as a goose but nice and smooth anyway. So I then cleaned and started to assemble the top end and bolted it down. Hooked the flywheel to the crank,and spun over by hand. Didnt seem too bad but even with the plug out you could still feel the "compression" stroke so to speak. Still seemed free compared the the last 3 times I'd put it together ,so I kept assembling added recoil etc and it still pulls over really hard. I'm 100% at a loss and am defeated.

 

[kyle1!]

Time to send it to a member here on AS for a look over or sell it for parts and move on. I have a scored MS290 and found a member to fix it for cash money. I am no saw mechanic even though I would like to become one. Just not enough time

 

[cscltd]

with the saw together with plug with starter off, can you rotate flywheel with ur fingers and will turn over? (will be hard but not difficult)
if yes, then ur starter may be issue. did you put knot at pulley end or did u use noose type were rope wraps around pulley will no knot? if knot, then knot may be binding against flywheel as there is no clearance for knot on old some HQ starters (but 272 should have deeper pulley shaft?
they also used different pulley shaft lengths for various series of starters (all same engine family) and could be hitting flywheel-
if you put starter mounting screws on loose-barely holding starter on-is it still tight? also you never did check pulley for warp or cracked on inside from what i read- as it will bind starter and give a false feeling that it is engine
sometimes its the simplest reason

 

[2StrokeFondler]

Do you have some room (.2 mm or so) on both sides between the crank and the bearings when assembled?
Had a similar thing with a 630. My crank was rubbing on the bearing on the flywheel side after pulling it in. Gave it a whack with an opinion booster (aka hammer), and I was good.

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

with the saw together with plug with starter off, can you rotate flywheel with ur fingers and will turn over? (will be hard but not difficult)
if yes, then ur starter may be issue. did you put knot at pulley end or did u use noose type were rope wraps around pulley will no knot? if knot, then knot may be binding against flywheel as there is no clearance for knot on old some HQ starters (but 272 should have deeper pulley shaft?
they also used different pulley shaft lengths for various series of starters (all same engine family) and could be hitting flywheel-
if you put starter mounting screws on loose-barely holding starter on-is it still tight? also you never did check pulley for warp or cracked on inside from what i read- as it will bind starter and give a false feeling that it is engine
sometimes its the simplest reason

UPDATE. So I finally figured it out, I'm not honestly sure what the issue was,I put the saw completely together and put gas in it and pulled it over a few times and it was still hard to pull. Then it fired for the first time and ran amd has pulled fine ever since! I swear that saw hades boggled. I've built quite a few saws and never had any issues like this and I pay attention to fine detail as much as I can, i.e reading service manuals front to back etc. When doing a build. So I just wanna thank EVERYONE for all there help and advice I do think the chinese crank amd bearings where culprit in the beginning but she now is back together and ripping chips like noone s business. The customer still hasnt picked it up which is fine I've just been using it a little here and there to be sure its gonna stay oiling which was the whole reason It landed on my bench in the first place! Now onto my newest problem saw. A farmertech 372xp kit saw not holding a tune!. Crank seals and gaskets are sealed.

 

[Husky77]

When you put the crank back into the cases and bolt it all together, have you taken the tention out by tapping the crank ends ? Some times if its tight a couple of taps with a copper hammer is all it takes for it to spin freely.

 

[Logmaster 1]

I have a Husquvarna 272 XP that has a working pull rope starter cover, BUT when you put it back on the saw the cams lock up when pulled 90% of the time. How to R&R this ? Thanx

 

[Squareground3691]

I have a Husquvarna 272 XP that has a working pull rope starter cover, BUT when you put it back on the saw the cams lock up when pulled 90% of the time. How to R&R this ? Thanx

You talking starter pawls ?

 

[Husky77]

The crank could be out of alignment it only takes a few thou to give symptoms your describing, on assembly I always used to use two stroke oil but later years I use assembly oil (Lucas semi synthetic to be precise) I find that very good and much better, being thick and tacky compared to 2t oil. I then run on fully synthetic 50/1 always. Hope it helps in some way

 

[Logmaster 1]

You talking starter pawls ?

I just talked to a veteran guy at the local dealer. Turns out the short rope is the problem. The 272 has high compression. I bought it that way. I will put the proper rope on it and I should be good to go.

 

[Squareground3691]

I just talked to a veteran guy at the local dealer. Turns out the short rope is the problem. The 272 has high compression. I bought it that way. I will put the proper rope on it and I should be good to go.

Pull slow till you go passed TDC then pull hard , will be easier for you , if you’re having a problem pulling it over ,

 

[Logmaster 1]

Pull slow till you go passed TDC then pull hard , will be easier for you , if you’re having a problem pulling it over ,

Thank you for the advice on that.