Echo 351VL chainsaw

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normanA

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My Echo 351 VL chainsaw will start but won`t throttle on.
I don`t have the service manual for the saw and don`t know the plug gap or the carby settings ( there are 2 screws that require adjusting on the carby ).
Could someone on the forum please advise what the plug gap would be, and the correct positions of the two carby adjusting screws.
This bloody thing is driving me mad as I need to start cutting wood for the winter.
Archie in OZ.
 
Recommended plug is NGK BM-6A gap .024" to .028"
Initial carb Low and High speed mixture screws is one turn open from being lightly seated. Make final adjustments with a clean air filter and engine at operating temperature. Adjust Low speed mixture screw so engine accelerates without stumbling. Adjust High speed mixture screw to obtain best performance with saw cutting(under load). Adjust idle speed screw so engine idles just under clutch engagement speed.
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...b0b4f3550e83b5ee88256d0c006c701a?OpenDocument
 
Also check out the fuel lines. Those saws are over 20 years old and the line may look good but when you get on it the line will suck shut. Just my .02 ...Bob
 
Echo 351VL chainsaw problem.

I would like to thank dtnodya, Bob, fish and Ray for their responses, I now have a copy of the various manuals that I wanted and I also believe I have found the problem that is causing my saw to cut out.
It appears the rubber seal in the side of the fuel tank has perished and is letting air in which is causing the fuel flow to cut out.
It obviously pays to run your saw occasionally and not leave it lying around for years like I did.
Archie.
 
Yep.


And don't feel bad because you left the saw sitting for a while ... You can fix it, trust me! I've bought some saws that looked like complete trash and with some TLC got em' running top notch! My point is that these saws were in WAYYY worse shape than yours (I assure you!!)


Are you talking about the rubber piece where the fuel line enters the tank? Take a pic if you can .. I might be able to help you further ...
 
The part.

G/day again fella`s, as my dear old dad used to say, "your blood`s worth bottling", I really appreciate your help and your passion for all things chainsaw.
dtnodya, the part is exactly as you describe, it`s the rubber seal that fits in the hole on the side of the fuel tank, it has a lip on both sides, one lip fits inside the tank, the other lip on the outside and the fueline part fits into the hole in the centre on the seal. It`s like a rubber grommet that you would use where the wiring on a car might fit through a metal panel.
Unfortunately, I can`t send you a photo at the moment because my son has gone away for the weekend and took it with him.
Archie.
 
I'll check with a friend of mine (has lots of old saws) and see if he's got a 351VL. I'm pretty sure that piece could be used off of a 452VL or John Deere 50V .. maybe a couple others ..

I'll see what he's got and if I can't find one then I probably have another way in mind that you could go about fixing it.
 
If the fuel line itself was cracked, or so soft it was pinching together, it
could cause the problems you decribe, but letting air into the tank would
not cause it. Is the fuel filter still attached to the end of the line?

Have you checked the spark yet?
 
Echo 351VL problem

Fish, I reckon your spot on.
I managed to reseal the fuel tank outlet today but the saw is still behaving the same way.
It will start with the choke out, but won`t run on with the choke in. It obviously uses up the fuel in the carby and cuts out. And the spark is quite strong.
I`ve checked the fuel line for leaks and softness, found no leaks and the line appears quite firm when you squeeze it.
The filter is attached to the line inside the tank and when I dismantled the saw, I cleaned the filter and blew air down the fuel line with the filter attached and the filter appeared to be working ok
Could there be a blockage in the carby itself.?
I`ve tried winding out the adjustment screws, but it made no difference.
I was going to remove the carby and dismantle it, but I can`t work out how you remove it from the saw.
It has a plastic surround around it which inhibits access to the screws that hold the carby on. Logic tells me I have to remove that plastic surround so that I can get at the attaching screws, but i`m not game to put any pressure on the darn thing. So once again, i`m asking for HELP!! from the forum.
What the heck do I have to do to get this saw to work.???
Archie.
 
Echo used a small 1/4" dia or so screen in the carb where the gas comes into it, sometimes 1 drop of water gets in there and the gas will not pass thru it or it may be blocked with dirt...Bob
 
Does the carb look like this? With the dumb box around it? Or is it mounted differently?

... forgot picture ...

p3060007gg2.jpg
 
The carby

Yes dtnodya, that`s the darn carby.
The plastic surround around mine was possibly a white plastic that has yellowed, but yes, the photo you have sent looks spot on.
How the heck do you remove the carby.??
Bob suggested a small diameter screen or filter at the point of entry on the carby may be blocked.
Everything else that I have checked appears ok and that`s something I haven`t looked at so logically what Bob suggests has to be right, so how do I go about removing that carby so that I can check that out.
Archie
 
I'm not sure but I thought he was referring to the screen in the carb??

I'm trying to remember how it comes off ....

OK, I found a pic of a saw I used to have (John Deere is an Echo) ... I tried to explain by illustrating in the pic:

sd7copysb4.jpg


The tricky part is actually putting the carb back on. The only way I could do it was to put the H and L needles into the black rubber piece, and then slide the whole thing up and in. I know that might not make much sense now but once you take a look at it, you'll see what I'm saying.

After you get the carb off, there is a plastic piece ("intake") that the carb mounts to, which mounts to the block. Be sure to take notice of the pulse hole (whatever its called) and be sure to clean it out. It's also important that you align the carb with that 'intake' piece correctly. That was the problem I was having with the saw in the picture ... that hole was blocked by dirt and the saw would run but really bad. After I cleaned that passage way, it ran like new (and strong too!!).

Hope that helps some. Let me know if that's not clear enough and I'll try to explain differently.
 
That bloody chainsaw again.

G/day dtnodya, Thanks for the photo`s and thanks for your invaluable help again.
I beat you to it though, I finally worked out how to remove the carby.
I finally got up the courage to have another go at it. I was frightened I might bust something if I started pulling at the damn thing after I removed the two bolts that held it on.
I worked out I had to disconnect the fuel hose first and I screwed out the two adjusting screws and removed them and bob`s your uncle, out she came.
I then pulled the carby to bits, blew it out with air, put it back together and put it back in the saw and guess what, even with the choke out I can`t get the thing to start now.
The diaphram in the pump is ok, no holes, but I did find the 4 screws that held the cover on were only hand tight which made me think I had found the problem, no such luck, I reckon i`ve made the thing worse, I feel like i`ve been jinxed.
I pulled off the fuel line at the carby end to see how much fuel was in the line and there appeared to be little to none which suggests the thing is not pulling the fuel up.
I removed the fuel line assembly and blew through the fuel line and managed to blow fuel out of the ceramic filter without much trouble so I don`t believe that`s blocked and before pulling the carby out again, I tried starting it by removing the plug and poured fuel directly into the motor through the plug hole. The saw started with a couple of pulls, burned the available fuel but would`nt run on.
dtnodya, you mention cleaning out the "pulse" hole, is that the little channel in the plastic casing next to the intake hole, it`s about an inch or so long and turns up at both ends and its just under an 1/8" wide. Or is it elsewhere.??
Anyway, it`s night time here so i`ve decided to have another go tomorrow, had enough today.
I`ve removed the carby again, stripped it again and will start from scratch again tomorrow, i`ll keep you informed.
If I can`t get the bloody thing going tomorrow, I`ll stick it in the mail and post it to you and you can fix it for me. Just kidding.
Archie.
 
I am on vacation until May 12th send it on :) one more thing (sorry) the carb may be mounted on a plastic base and it will shrink after a while making the carb loose so make sure when it goes back together the carb dosen't wobble when bolted down tight. Good luck.....Bob
 
Echo, Echo, Echo

dtnodya, are you out there mate, I still need your help and or anyone else on the forum who may have been watching my never ending saga.
I`m still mucking around with this damn Echo chainsaw.
I stripped the carby and completely cleaned it, taking note of the filter Bob mentioned. The carby inside was suprisingly clean inside.
I now have the saw running again and idling, but it won`t throttle on.
I`ve tried adjusting the mixture, but it does`nt appear to change anything.
I`ve tried a different spark plug and it still does the same thing.
I`ve also tried to remove the flywheel so I could check the points, but I need a puller to remove the flywheel so I bombed out there.
When I start the saw, I give it full choke and when it fires I push the choke in and the saw idles, but as it idles, it appears to not be firing on every rotation as if the thing is shorting out in someway. Could that be points, or perhaps a magneto problem.?
I feel that I am THIS close from getting the thing going, but I need someone smarter than me to point me in the right direction.
Archie.
 

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