Scratch the changing of the fuel tank vent from my to do list. I took the bar off and turned it on it's side and removed the fuel cap. It would not start.
Check the intake boot/manifold it was torn 3/4 the way on mine and it had the same problems, that's the rubber boot that goes between the carb and cylinder.Scratch the changing of the fuel tank vent from my to do list. I took the bar off and turned it on it's side and removed the fuel cap. It would not start.
When I change the gas tank years ago, I had trouble getting that boot to seat right. Finally did. I visually inspected it before I posted today and it did look seated, but I couldn't see all around if any cracks were present. How do I get to the boot to replace it? Have to take the tank back off?Check the intake boot/manifold it was torn 3/4 the way on mine and it had the same problems, that's the rubber boot that goes between the carb and cylinder.
It's a real PITA, but my stihl dealer missed it even I couldn't tell till I took it off. Yes the best way is to take the gas tank/handle assembly off to access it.When I change the gas tank years ago, I had trouble getting that boot to seat right. Finally did. I visually inspected it before I posted today and it did look seated, but I couldn't see all around if any cracks were present. How do I get to the boot to replace it? Have to take the tank back off?
Mine tore next to the cylinder, so you can't really tell unless you take it off. I get aftermarket parts from either sawzilla or wolf creek FYI.When I change the gas tank years ago, I had trouble getting that boot to seat right. Finally did. I visually inspected it before I posted today and it did look seated, but I couldn't see all around if any cracks were present. How do I get to the boot to replace it? Have to take the tank back off?
I'm hoping to eliminate everything else before I tackle the carb.Rebuild the carb using a good kit preferably from the manufacturer, not a chinese knockoff because the internal parts like the needle/spring/spacers/screens are not the same quality and often do not match perfectly in thickness, dimensions or lack in quality of the materials. Your issue is likely in the diaphragm or fuel pump being hardened or deformed.
Ive got a new one, if you can't find one. I got mine from sawzilla.If you need a good used boot I have a couple or they can be sourced still on fleabay
These carbs are pretty easy to rebuild, you can even get brand new tillys for these stillI'm hoping to eliminate everything else before I tackle the carb.
038s are known to have issues with the choke flappers not fully closing off the port in the filter causing starting difficulties when cold.
I'd start from scratch when it comes to a saw that has hunting issues. Pressure/vac test the saw and check rubber components for air leaks. Intake boots can be cracked but the cracks don't open up and leak air until you flex the boot. I've seen where saws run fine out of the wood but when you bury the bar and lean on the saw, the boot flexes and opens the crack. Air leaks in moments of high engine loads like this are a great way to toast a saw.
Maybe I'm a purist, but I wouldn't trust any AM parts (Meteor pistons are my only exception), especially carbs and rebuild kits. OEM parts are available through ebay and your local dealer.
Air leaks first, then fuel, then spark.
I haven't figured that out yet. I don't see any leakage on the outside. I store the saw in a tray. No liquid.My first question is where is the fuel going when 1/2 a tank disappears when setting? Is it flooded?. It has to be going either inside or outside.
That is where we start.
might be the carb not holding pressure and going into your engine crank case- is the plug wet- you can pressure test a carb by taking it off and pumpig in 15-20 lbs positive of pressure into the fuel inlet if it doesn't hold it at 15 forever then that's a problem- ps- try to get as much pressure out of your tank - better yet empty it before removing it and have somethig to plug the gas line- i have a pile of plastic plugs for that purposeI haven't figured that out yet. I don't see any leakage on the outside. I store the saw in a tray. No liquid.
You'll also have to make a couple of blanking plates to block off the exhaust port and the intake. There are plenty of videos and threads on the subject but we are here if ya need help.I bought a gauge for pressure/vac testing back in January. Just haven't used it yet. I'll read up on how to use it and test the saw in the next couple of days.
The 038's have a .68L fuel tank capacity which is around 23 fluid ounces. So if you're losing around 12 ounces of gas into the engine you'd be able to find it.I haven't figured that out yet. I don't see any leakage on the outside. I store the saw in a tray. No liquid.
Enter your email address to join: