Echo 590 Timberwolf "H" setting

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The hda 316 has the same bypass nozzle as the 268.

The 203 needs a couple tweaks to fit up proper.

I would swap the nozzle before swapping carbs.

I tried the 203 carb before k bowing about the nozzle swapping.
 
I agree the nozzle swap is the cheapest way and the less complicated way to go. Thanks to red 97 and your wolf is fully ajustable.
 
I have the nozzle on order, should be here in a few days. I can't remember where it was I had read that the 316 didn't have the bypass but it seems they where wrong. Thanks for the info Red.
 
I have the nozzle on order, should be here in a few days. I can't remember where it was I had read that the 316 didn't have the bypass but it seems they where wrong. Thanks for the info Red.
Have you run a 620p? I'm interested in them
 
I've run a stock 590 and a stock 620. If you have the money and no one else will be using it or want a fast cutter out of the box, go with the 620. If it's for multiple users or budget limited/wife doesn't understand, go with the 590.

The 620 is a hot rod from the manufacturer where the 590 is a basic mustang waiting for some upgrades to unleash the ponies!
 
Thanks I got a 590 I'm pretty happy with but was curious 3the 620 and if it was a saw that you can trick out and up the performance since it is a commercial model.thanks for the replys
 
I have the nozzle on order, should be here in a few days. I can't remember where it was I had read that the 316 didn't have the bypass but it seems they where wrong. Thanks for the info Red.

I thought that was the case too. It was the coil and different porting that allows the 620 to rev a bit higher than the 590. The 316 (620) carb has the same bypass nozzle as the 590/600 carbs.
 
I thought that was the case too. It was the coil and different porting that allows the 620 to rev a bit higher than the 590. The 316 (620) carb has the same bypass nozzle as the 590/600 carbs.
I wonder why they went with a different carb if it has the same bypass. Something must be different.
 
Carb off, image of old Nozzle/Valve. These are all thumbnails so click them to enlarge, I kept them all at thumbs so it wouldn't make loading the page take a week.
Untitled-1.jpg
 
I made a brass pin out of stock I had and had to use a drill press with a file (don't have a lathe YET). I made the pin .213. Just under the dimensions of the old and new valve.
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I removed the choke plate/linkage so I could remove the valve easier.
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Compared the two side by side to get an idea of how far I would have to place the new one in. They are pretty much a match.
Untitled-4.jpg Untitled-5.jpg

They both came in at right around .310 long and .215 wide.
 
Nice thing about the new valve is it dosent matter how well the feed hole lines up. With the band cut it can feed in any orientation.

I do try and line up the hole when installing the new valve though.

Make sure to loctite the choke plate screw. Those can vibrate free once they have been removed.
 
Anyway old one out and new one in place, have everything put back together but it is getting late so I will be testing it out tomorrow.
 
Nice thing about the new valve is it dosent matter how well the feed hole lines up. With the band cut it can feed in any orientation.

I do try and line up the hole when installing the new valve though.

Make sure to loctite the choke plate screw. Those can vibrate free once they have been removed.

Already loctited it back in place and I did the same thing about lining them up. I know making that pin would have been a LOT easier with a lathe lol. It took me twenty min to do that with a file and drill press. It sucks to do it that way but I didn't want to use a steel pin in the aluminum carb. body.
 
I also forgot to mention those limiters are shaved so now I can do what I want about adjusting the jets. I meant to take pics of before and after but once you have them out its easy to understand what you need to do. Make it easier on yourself when removing them for the first time, line up the tabs with the slots then pull out on them. At about half way out you will run into the tab on the other end just spin the limiter to get it to line up and it comes right out. Shave the sides and press them back in.
 
Well tested her out today, WOT I'm about a turn out maybe just a hair less on High jet, I'm at 4400' above sea level. Is what I did find interesting is the Low jet took maybe 1 1/2 turn to 1 3/4 turns to satisfy the low side. It's cutting fine but I really cannot compare it to having not changed the nozzle valve out and the engine is new.

I have a very hard time hearing the change on the 590 from four stroking where my 036 I can hear it plain as day, how about yours when setting the H jet, is your 590 easy to hear it come into four stroking? I did a very unfair comparison of the 590 vs my 036. I need to let the 590 break in and do a hand file on the chain then set the rakers, it has a new LGX chain on it and factory set rakers. My 036 has RS hand files with the rakers set at .035 and the engine is broken in so it was no surprise on the outcome on that since it was completely unfair fight and the fact the 036 has almost 5cc on the 590, not sure if the 036 is unlimited on the coil but I know she will wind out if I lean her out pretty hard.
 
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