I have an older Echo CS-300 chainsaw. In recent years it has gotten difficult to pull the starter rope (too much compression). You pull it a little bit and it sticks, pull it a little bit and it sticks. When I remove the spark plug it turns freely. I cleaned the entire chainsaw so there is no blockage. I removed the starter, cleaned and lubricated it. I removed the muffler and can see the piston which looks nice and clean and cleaned the spark arrester. The saw doesn't appear to have a decompression valve and the brake is not on. The chainsaw will start and runs fine I don't understand why its so hard to pull. I'm the original owner and have take care of the saw. Any help would be appreciated
Echo CS-300 Starter Cord Hard to Pull
- Thread starter artriumph
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RED-85-Z51
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"Too hard to pull" threads never usually pan out because there are so many variables. The cs300 is a tiny saw from a brand known for notoriously easy to pull saws. The first thing you should do is a compression test...see if there is some kind of compression issue. If the compression is normal...around 140ish, then you may need to consider other possibilities like a recoil issue, or if other similar saws have become harder to start.
I get a couple saws a week come in complaining of hard to start...cant pull the rope, maybe 1 in 20 is a legitimate problem...its usually a technique issue or an operator problem.
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I get a couple saws a week come in complaining of hard to start...cant pull the rope, maybe 1 in 20 is a legitimate problem...its usually a technique issue or an operator problem.
Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
Claude Lewis
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Claude Lewis
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Hi, artriumph,
I have the exact issue/problem with my 5-year old CS-310.
Have you been able to identify what the problem is ?
Many thanks,
Claude
I have the exact issue/problem with my 5-year old CS-310.
Have you been able to identify what the problem is ?
Many thanks,
Claude
Wet cylinder symptoms, creates too high of compression that makes pull over near impossible.
OK, how does one address a "wet cylinder issue"?
Easiest route is to empty the fuel tank after done cutting.
sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
I mean to be fair, they disappeared 3 years ago... Thread got Necromancied. Maybe the bumper (with the same problem) disappeared?
I'll confess; I'm curious. "Wet Cylinder" is that water building in cylinder or is it gas flowing into the cylinder while saw sits? Known cause/permanent fix existing to resolve it so you don't need to extract gas between uses? IE what's the "less easy" but more permanent fix?
I'll confess; I'm curious. "Wet Cylinder" is that water building in cylinder or is it gas flowing into the cylinder while saw sits? Known cause/permanent fix existing to resolve it so you don't need to extract gas between uses? IE what's the "less easy" but more permanent fix?
Wet cylinder syndrome is caused by fuel seeping/ escaping past the metering neede, worn or dirty seat most times, fuel arleady in the tank can and will expand during temp changes and if the needle is not closed tight fuel will find its way into the cylinder. I find very few wet cylinders on my saws when the weather is very cold/winter time up here, the fuel mix stays cold and little to no expansion takes place, when the weather warms I encounter more of it.
sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
So a carb rebuild / new needle seat should be the more permanent fix, correct?
The seat is not always replaceable but is usually the culprit, many blame the needle and swap out several to find it does not stop. Some have some luck polishing the seat with tooth paste on a cotton tip swab, fine valve grinding compound works well, clean thoroughly before reassembly and one might get lucky. The carbs with plastic seats are replace only items.
