TBS
I have chainsaws and chainsaw accessories.
Theres no need remove the engine, You have to push the boot off of white insulator, it goes over a lip to form an intake seal for the carburetor.
Echo CS-352 - How to remove / replace / tighten Intake Boot
- Thread starter B.C.
- Start date
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I'm not sure I'd looked under the handle in the little area there one might have been hiding but there isn't one there either. There are zero visible screws into that darn white plastic part anywhere. I pulled and twisted on it a bunch again and no joy. Also the design appears like a husqvarna 435 and I'm sure some others, the top end is bolted to the case and the case itself is the bottom end and there is no clamshell bottom. I don't like that kind of design at all so hopefully I never have to take that apart because I sure don't want to as sealing them back up seems more difficult than a clamshell and I'm by no means a master of those already. I was thinking maybe there is a catch on that white part and tried to pry the bottom away from the case with a couple hooks but that didn't seem to free it up either. Thing is driving me nuts. There has to be something that lets go but I still can't find it or figure it out.
I didn't see your post till just now BrushSlasher. So are you saying I have to try to push the boot back and out of the white plastic? I started to try that but it seemed like it would be impossible without doing damage as there was no room to do so, it's extremely short, like not even 1/2" on that side plus that ring is there unlike one on a Stihl where you do that. It didn't seem possible. The only thing that made sense to me was that the white block pulls off the case and you then pull the boot off the cylinder as it comes off and reverse to install and then snug that ring on. But the white block won't come off of course. There isn't any room to push it through with it on.
Looking at the IPL there are two vertical bolts that hold the white plastic in place. Did you remove these?
stilh036prohog
ArboristSite Guru
???
Yes, you can see in the first photo that they are removed and you can see the bolt holes. They go down in from the top. I'm guessing those are the two you are referring to because there seem to not be any other bolts anywhere on it. (The first set of three photos not these two most recent ones looking at the bottom.)
Alright, so I finally figured it out. Oddly enough, there wasn't anything else holding it down. BUT, it took an enormous amount of pressure to pop it off. I big prybar over the cylinder to the back of the intake block, and a hammer claw under the front. Prying on both together I was finally able to pull the ******* out. To my surprise there were not extra clips or screws anywhere to be seen, just some insanely tight friction fit I guess. The boot was not happy about this forcing off but it survived. I did damage it a little trying to put it back on however and forcing it back on the same way. NO DICE. This just doesn't even seem possible and I was really putting a hurt on my boot, I've lowered it's life I'm sure especially where I can see visible damage where it was being mashed against the cylinder flange. It still holds air but not for as long as it would have. Ultimately I had to modify a few things to make it work.
Pic 1 shows the tools that were in my hands when I finally got it off and their relative positioning. The business end was prying up on both sides of the white intake block at the same time. The hammer under the what looks like a cylinder that pokes out on the top front and the pry tool under the recess at the top in the back.
Pic 2 shows my surprised view when it came off, nothing there!
Pic 3 shows the modified ring with a few mm or so taken out and the stihl 290 boot clamp over it. (there was some fighting when I slipped the intake block back on getting the stihl clamp in between the block on the rear but it was ok. I could have probably tightened it more first and had less trouble.)
Pic 4 shows how I shaved part of the back side off so rather than having to try and shove it in top down you can instead just slip it back onto the boot & pull it through and not have to fight the hell out of it. I had to keep taking more off until you can basically just bypass the notch in the intake block on the back where it would ride over where the screws go. I had to make it flush with the deepest part of the original groove basically until it could then just slip right past. Doing it this way you can make sure the boot is on the cylinder nice and the impulse is in there good and not have to mangle and reef in it to try and pull it through ridiculously while you mash the intake boot back down. Its a horrible frigging design I think and it's not even remotely serviceable that way without removing the entire cylinder and that's just friggin silly to simply replace the boot or put a clamp on because the darn factory white ring doesn't hold for s**t.
I have no idea what others might have done that have worked on these saws before but this is what I had to do and what worked for me.
With the clamp tighted to where the ring just touches edged to edge again it runs great and doesn't fluctuate anymore, so thankfully I didn't do it all for nothing and I guessed right! haha! (At least I hope so. I only did about five cuts with it but it ran nice and wasn't turbo'ing off into the great blue yonder randomly like it did before after the first cut.) So hopefully it's fixed. Gonna probably do the cat muffler delete and leave it alone from there and enjoy the nice running saw. I still thing the design is butt though and I don't like these that the cylinder mounts directly to the case either, I'd rather have a clamshell bottom and mount that to the case. I get it saves them parts/money but I don't like it. I was looking at comparing the stihl 250 to the husqvarna 435 last week and noted that the husky is designed that way as well and there were two little metal pieces that had to be just right on top of the seals when you put the cylinder back on and I was like wow, no thanks, I'll go with the regular clamshell MS250 for sure I guess.
Anyway, that was my experience here with the CS 352, hope that helps somebody in the future because I sure had a hell of a time figuring it out! Heh. I had to do a little modification to the 2511T I have too, that 3/8 stock bar they sell it with is chatter city and it sucked hard on that little saw. Modded a stihl bar onto it in .043 and it was night and day. I didn't want the 1/4" because its a little too small for my taste and I jump chain too much as it is on other saws so the .043 is a better choice for me. I posted pics for that in another thread as well if anyone is interested.
Pic 1 shows the tools that were in my hands when I finally got it off and their relative positioning. The business end was prying up on both sides of the white intake block at the same time. The hammer under the what looks like a cylinder that pokes out on the top front and the pry tool under the recess at the top in the back.
Pic 2 shows my surprised view when it came off, nothing there!
Pic 3 shows the modified ring with a few mm or so taken out and the stihl 290 boot clamp over it. (there was some fighting when I slipped the intake block back on getting the stihl clamp in between the block on the rear but it was ok. I could have probably tightened it more first and had less trouble.)
Pic 4 shows how I shaved part of the back side off so rather than having to try and shove it in top down you can instead just slip it back onto the boot & pull it through and not have to fight the hell out of it. I had to keep taking more off until you can basically just bypass the notch in the intake block on the back where it would ride over where the screws go. I had to make it flush with the deepest part of the original groove basically until it could then just slip right past. Doing it this way you can make sure the boot is on the cylinder nice and the impulse is in there good and not have to mangle and reef in it to try and pull it through ridiculously while you mash the intake boot back down. Its a horrible frigging design I think and it's not even remotely serviceable that way without removing the entire cylinder and that's just friggin silly to simply replace the boot or put a clamp on because the darn factory white ring doesn't hold for s**t.
I have no idea what others might have done that have worked on these saws before but this is what I had to do and what worked for me.
With the clamp tighted to where the ring just touches edged to edge again it runs great and doesn't fluctuate anymore, so thankfully I didn't do it all for nothing and I guessed right! haha! (At least I hope so. I only did about five cuts with it but it ran nice and wasn't turbo'ing off into the great blue yonder randomly like it did before after the first cut.) So hopefully it's fixed. Gonna probably do the cat muffler delete and leave it alone from there and enjoy the nice running saw. I still thing the design is butt though and I don't like these that the cylinder mounts directly to the case either, I'd rather have a clamshell bottom and mount that to the case. I get it saves them parts/money but I don't like it. I was looking at comparing the stihl 250 to the husqvarna 435 last week and noted that the husky is designed that way as well and there were two little metal pieces that had to be just right on top of the seals when you put the cylinder back on and I was like wow, no thanks, I'll go with the regular clamshell MS250 for sure I guess.
Anyway, that was my experience here with the CS 352, hope that helps somebody in the future because I sure had a hell of a time figuring it out! Heh. I had to do a little modification to the 2511T I have too, that 3/8 stock bar they sell it with is chatter city and it sucked hard on that little saw. Modded a stihl bar onto it in .043 and it was night and day. I didn't want the 1/4" because its a little too small for my taste and I jump chain too much as it is on other saws so the .043 is a better choice for me. I posted pics for that in another thread as well if anyone is interested.
I know this post is 5 years old but I've run into the same thing with a neighbor's CS352. I performed a pressure test on it and it wouldn't pump up at all. I hooked up my pressure hose to the impulse hole and blew into it and it wouldn't hold pressure at all. I'll check it again tomorrow using soapy water but I'm pretty sure it's the intake or the clamp. Whatever it is it's a pretty big leak..
