Echo CS-590 Running, but Still Shoots Oil Out the Bottom

[Paul Bunions]

I was having trouble with my CS-590, so I put a CS-620 carb in it, and it ran fine. Now I'm back to my original problem: the bar oil drips out of the bottom of the saw without getting to the bar.

I will post a photo, but it's not very helpful. There is a central body to the saw, and the rest of the saw fits over it. The clutch assembly is on the outer part. The cylinder and piston and so on are in the middle part. The oil is coming out between the outer part and the inner part, so it never gets to the are where the clutch and the bar are located.

I have taken the saw apart about as far as I am willing before getting some information. I have it to the point where it looks like the only thing holding the center part to the outer part is the rubber tube that connects the cylinder to the plastic part the carb bolts to.

Before I tear into this thing any further, does anyone who has actually taken a CS-590 apart have any suggestions?

I can't take it to a repair place. They keep saws for weeks or months here, and they are inept. I'm pretty sure this problem was caused by the last shop I took it to, because it has never been right since I took it home. They also left some screws loose and tightened others so they nearly needed an impact driver to get them off.

It acts like there is a torn hose between the pump and the oil outlets. I don't even know what's in there because I haven't gotten it apart yet.

 

[Paul Bunions]

I am trying to get the clutch off, and I have the little tool that goes on an impact driver, but my 1/2" Makita cordless 18V will not drive the clutch off. I know it goes off clockwise. I stuffed a rope into the cylinder to keep the shaft from turning.

Is it safe to put an impact wrench on the tool or will I destroy the connecting rod?

I'm pretty sure the guy who worked on this thing is a certified imbecile, so it wouldn't surprise me to learn he used an impact wrench to install the clutch.

 

[Paul Bunions]

I have never gotten the answer to this problem here, so I will post it myself. My question must be pretty tough, so other people will probably need to know what to do.

The problem is a cut in the oil pipe. The oil pipe consists of a plastic or rubber block, a two-ended nippled, two little pieces of hose, and a couple of clamps. It runs under the clutch edge.

It looks like my clutch somehow cut into the hose and opened it up. I don't know if the mechanic who worked on the saw installed the wrong clutch or what. He definitely didn't check the saw to see if it was oiling, so I give him an F.

I may be to blame for the problem he was fixing. I revved the saw up with the brake on and heated some things up. It may be that the brake band heated up and melted the hose.

Anyway, to fix this you can either put in some new hose or buy the whole part, which is probably number V470000830. The number has changed at least once.

You remove the right side cover, chain, bar, and clutch. The hose pipe assembly is flexible so you can pull it out from under the brake band. The oil pump itself sits right under the clutch stuff. It's not buried in the saw.

The clutch was really stuck on there. A 1/2" air impact wrench and a clutch tool would not budge it. The shaft just spun. I got it off using a socket wrench and breaker bar, after stuffing a rope into the cylinder to prevent the shaft from turning.

In spite of being a terrible mechanic, I am apparently smarter than Echo's engineers, because I am going to put anti-seize on the shaft before putting the clutch back in. Seems pretty obvious to me. I may have to fool with this thing again, and I don't want to have to struggle to get the clutch out.

 

[Wood Doctor]

One has to wonder how your oil pipe got messed up. I'll check the one I'm working on now. I have parts all over my workbench. The owner destroyed the tank housing.

I try to avoid impact wrenches on the clutch with the piston blocked by anything hard. That can ruin the top surface of the piston.

 

[Paul Bunions]

I was fortunate enough to see people on the web warning about blocking the piston while using an impact wrench. I took the plug out, too.

Now I can't start the saw! Wonder what I did this time.

I found out I was missing a screw from the starter assembly. I can't believe people are seriously trying to charge over $6 each for Torx screws. I decided to buy a couple of BAGS of hex screws for $13.

I decided to throw out my chain. The people who worked on the saw were told not to sharpen it, but they did anyway, and the geometry is so bad, it's better for me to throw the old one out than try to fix it. I tried today, and I barely made a dent in it.

I would say the chisels are about 3/4 as long as they were when the saw was new. Some of that wear is due to me using a file, but the rest all came from the shop. My guess is that they use some kind of fancy grinder they don't really know how to work. Ruin the customer's saw so he can't sharpen it. Then you get to charge for sharpening it again, and you can sell him new chains when the chisels disappear prematurely.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I was fortunate enough to see people on the web warning about blocking the piston while using an impact wrench. I took the plug out, too.

Now I can't start the saw! Wonder what I did this time.

I found out I was missing a screw from the starter assembly. I can't believe people are seriously trying to charge over $6 each for Torx screws. I decided to buy a couple of BAGS of hex screws for $13.

I decided to throw out my chain. The people who worked on the saw were told not to sharpen it, but they did anyway, and the geometry is so bad, it's better for me to throw the old one out than try to fix it. I tried today, and I barely made a dent in it.

I would say the chisels are about 3/4 as long as they were when the saw was new. Some of that wear is due to me using a file, but the rest all came from the shop. My guess is that they use some kind of fancy grinder they don't really know how to work. Ruin the customer's saw so he can't sharpen it. Then you get to charge for sharpening it again, and you can sell him new chains when the chisels disappear prematurely.

Now you know why the guys here learn to do their own repairs and maintenance. Or, we find a mechanic that you can rely on to do good work.

 

[Captain Bruce]

I am trying to get the clutch off, and I have the little tool that goes on an impact driver, but my 1/2" Makita cordless 18V will not drive the clutch off. I know it goes off clockwise. I stuffed a rope into the cylinder to keep the shaft from turning.

Is it safe to put an impact wrench on the tool or will I destroy the connecting rod?

I'm pretty sure the guy who worked on this thing is a certified imbecile, so it wouldn't surprise me to learn he used an impact wrench to install the clutch.

Your cordless tool is for sh*t. Put a 1/2" air rachet on it, with the piston frozen in place. That clutch will pop in 1/2 a turn. Also, never point at another guys abilities, while laying yours out on a blanket, on the internet.

As your Grandpa said, "Nobodys perfect".

 

[Paul Bunions]

Also, never point at another guys abilities, while laying yours out on a blanket, on the internet.

The big problem with that advice is that I am not charging people $125 an hour and pretending to be a pro, and I'm not trying to cheat anybody. I'm an amateur, so I'm not really supposed to know what I'm doing. And I fixed a saw two pros couldn't fix. And I wouldn't be here if the two guys who worked on my saw knew what they were doing.

The first shop kept the saw for something like six weeks, and then they told me to come get it because they couldn't fix it! I'm talking about a factory-authorized repair shop.

Actually, the first shop was Rural King. Echo listed them as authorized, and when I got there, they told me "the guy" who could repair saws was gone. So Echo's authorized facility, during the short period while it existed, was one guy who worked at Rural King.

I went from Rural King to the place that did nothing, and then I went to the place that ruined my chain. All told, my saw was in the hands of nincompoops, not including myself, for something like 3 months.

I don't know how arborists survive. If I depended on saws for a living, I'd have to own 10 to make sure I always had a couple that were running, because I would have to do all the repairs myself. Surely there must be cities and towns where you can get a saw repaired. All I know is, I don't live near one.

 

[cookies]

Call echo and tell them your experiences, Shops ignore them knowing their owners will buy a new one for 399 instead of paying 200+ to repair it so they simply say I cant figure it out, can't find the problem that'll be 100 bucks come get it. And Its likely echo won't do anything about it, you'd likely been more successful trying to exchange it at some random homedepot than doing the right thing trying to pay for parts/repairs. I learned long ago to do it myself if I wanted it done right and in a reasonable amount of time.

 

[Paul Bunions]

I think Walbro carbs are justification for buying a different brand of saw.

I have an Echo pole saw that has some other kind of carb. When it gunks up, I slap a Chinese job in there and keep cutting. Can't do that with Walbro.