Echo CS 680 stop cutting/running under pressure

[chilipeppermaniac]

Old2stroke, LuDookie, Sidecarflip etc,

Maybe Qasim Khan needs to start off by finding an experienced saw man who has a well running saw and have that man demo how to buck and not mess up his saw. Of course You tube videos can help, but nothing like an in person lesson.

As far as his own saw goes. sorting our his trouble with us throwing suggestions at it may or may not yield a well running saw within a reasonable time frame or cost to him.

 

[lone wolf]

Possibly a fuel delivery problem or low compression, based on the new bar and chain, failed to help, and the clutch isn't jammed up in that area. Does the bar and chain match the numbers on the old stuff? If so then
1. Pull the muffler, look for scoring on the piston and ring.
2. Check fuel line to see if it is ripped or too soft and collapsing.
3. Replace carb.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

The first one gives good info on setting low speed operation but is totally useless on how to set the high speed needle (the most important one) and even gives a false impression of what it does.

I agree to a degree about the high speed in Steve's first clip.
I think he touches upon the basics of the high speed adjustment but leaves it at the conservative remedy for those who don't have a tach or saws without limiter caps etc. I also wonder why he proceeded down the path of a 1.5 turns out setting when you can see on the saw body it says 3/4turn for the H screw.

Buckin Billy Ray has a tutorial on setting the carb too. Without watching Tinman's vid again. I think my memory has it that Billy's method is like Tinman's. And as for me, I never overrevved my own saws in or out of the wood, so I am confident that whatever setting my carbs are adjusted, I will not blow up my saws. However, I did just get my tach in the mail the other day.

With the addition of at least 7-8 more saws, and 4-5 more string trimmers, I know the tach will be used again and again as I rebuild and set up a good bit of these saws and trimmers.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Possibly a fuel delivery problem or low compression, based on the new bar and chain, failed to help, and the clutch isn't jammed up in that area. Does the bar and chain match the numbers on the old stuff? If so then
1. Pull the muffler, look for scoring on the piston and ring.
2. Check fuel line to see if it is ripped or too soft and collapsing.
3. Replace carb.

Lone Wolf, I think you and the other guys here are on to something.
I am also sensing that our OP is lacking in technique and experience with a well running saw, and now he is trying to fix his saw back to well running when he has no ingrained sense of HOW a 100% healthy and properly set/Tuned/ sharpened/ saw should run and be handled.

In fact, I would go as far as to say, he might do himself best by putting this saw aside, and getting a new saw or new used saw that an experienced sawyer can demo the way things should be and how to run it. Think of something along the lines of a Stihl 026, MS260 ( 50cc) or Husq 445, 545XP or even an Echo CS 4510, CS 490 or for a 1:1 comparison, pick up another known good running CS 680.

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/tell-me-about-a-echo-cs-680.324814/

Notice how this man lets the saw eat through the wood and does not force it or put pressure on the saw as Qasim Khan demo'd when illustrating the problems with his 680.