Stihl 07 (1961-1965) Rebuild Process.

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Anyone splited crankshaft in stihl 07s chainsaw before, need to change bearing at bottom of conrod but not sure how to split crankshaft safe
Change it, where are you finding a bearing or better yet a journal? Better just find another complete crank not damaged.
 
Anyone splited crankshaft in stihl 07s chainsaw before, need to change bearing...

The crank does not separate..., at least not on purpose.

The rod obviously does. This is to accommodate assembly and service of the bearing/connecting rod which is a needle roller design comprised of individual needle rollers..., probably about 30 of them. They may be contained in retainers as two 'halves' in this application. I'm curious myself. Maybe someone who knows will chime in?

Here is an old IPL that may be helpful. The above is illustrated on page 2.

As for filing points, go easy with whatever file is chosen. I would personally consider a raker file a bit aggressive for the task, but whatever is used should be followed up by fine grit paper or cloth to achieve the best finish surface area results for your efforts. A half-assed effort will yield half-assed result every time.

Good luck.
 

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  • 07S IPL - German.pdf
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The crank does not separate..., at least not on purpose.

The rod obviously does. This is to accommodate assembly and service of the bearing/connecting rod which is a needle roller design comprised of individual needle rollers..., probably about 30 of them. They may be contained in retainers as two 'halves' in this application. I'm curious myself. Maybe someone who knows will chime in?

Here is an old IPL that may be helpful. The above is illustrated on page 2.

As for filing points, go easy with whatever file is chosen. I would personally consider a raker file a bit aggressive for the task, but whatever is used should be followed up by fine grit paper or cloth to achieve the best finish surface area results for your efforts. A half-assed effort will yield half-assed result every time.

Good luck.
Hey Pogo, take a close look at the big end journal ,that is what I think he is posting about, it is badly pitted, there is no replacement part for them so my suggestion is to find a good crank. I have pressed the cranks apart and put them back together more than a few times but if the journal is all torn up or badly pitted it is useless endeavor.
 
The crank does not separate..., at least not on purpose.

The rod obviously does. This is to accommodate assembly and service of the bearing/connecting rod which is a needle roller design comprised of individual needle rollers..., probably about 30 of them. They may be contained in retainers as two 'halves' in this application. I'm curious myself. Maybe someone who knows will chime in?

Here is an old IPL that may be helpful. The above is illustrated on page 2.

As for filing points, go easy with whatever file is chosen. I would personally consider a raker file a bit aggressive for the task, but whatever is used should be followed up by fine grit paper or cloth to achieve the best finish surface area results for your efforts. A half-assed effort will yield half-assed result every time.

Good luck.
Ok can see it now it's in 2 half's, that's even worse as maybe could find one in full but 2 half's I don't think so
 
Hey Pogo, take a close look at the big end journal ,that is what I think he is posting about, it is badly pitted, there is no replacement part for them so my suggestion is to find a good crank. I have pressed the cranks apart and put them back together more than a few times but if the journal is all torn up or badly pitted it is useless endeavor.

I don't disagree. Was just trying to possibly explain what he was actually looking at assembly-wise. The pics speak for themselves.
 
I don't disagree. Was just trying to possibly explain what he was actually looking at assembly-wise. The pics speak for themselves.
Yes ,thanks for that, I think I will order just bearing needles same size as old ones and put them in ,fit conrod,and hopefully that will be good enough as can't get that bearing nowhere, used to had motorbike and it was done same way on crankshaft, just bearing needles around pin
 

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