Echo CS400 history and worthwhile addition?

[ClydesdaleClop]

In my area, Home Depot had in-store only clearance price for a CS-400 w/18”bar. Stumbled across it online when the option to look at inventory at the various stores was still available. Had to visit two locations since the online inventory wasn’t accurate, but on Monday picked up one of the two that were available at the last store. They were in the shelves above the Echo display, but had a nice bright yellow tag with the $185 clearance price.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Great price for what should be a great saw made by the company that claims to have saws that last. As I recall the original owner of my CS-3900 who died 10 years ago paid $300 for it. His included the storage case that I still keep it in. After reading this thread I decided to start it up and it runs fine. One of my friends has a 500EVL and he still uses it to cut firewood every year. It's 10 years polder than my CS-3900. Take care of them and yes, they will last.

 

[Clint Eatswood]

Gut the muffler, pull the carb limiters, retune it and replace the chain with some Oregon Versa-Cut. Keep the chain sharp. Unless you're in big stuff all day you won't be disappointed. Mine is a little wood laser.

 

[ATpro]

Take the muffler off, take the little freckle tie and spark arrestee off. Then get a map torch and heat the seams on the muffler till they’re red hot and you can pry it open with a crappy flathead you don’t mind messing up a bit

No need to split the muffler, just take a 7/8" metal hole saw, which is the same size as the cat and drill the cat out on the back of the muffler, this will also open up the muffler hole in the back and leave the frame that held the cat in the muffler for support. I have done a dozen are more for folks along with pulling the carb limiter caps and re tune.

 

[LuDookie]

No need to split the muffler, just take a 7/8" metal hole saw, which is the same size as the cat and drill the cat out on the back of the muffler, this will also open up the muffler hole in the back and leave the frame that held the cat in the muffler for support. I have done a dozen are more for folks along with pulling the carb limiter caps and re tune.

Yep, no need to split. Just gut it. I did just like you with the bit. I had to use some pliers to pull some of it out and I drilled the support out a little too, and opened up the exit port just a little. Saw will cut live oak day after day, year after year.

 

[ATpro]

I drilled the support out a little too, and opened up the exit port just a little. Saw will cut live oak day after day, year after year.

Yep, you can drill some of the support out also, the good part of doing it this way is you open up the exhaust port on the back end of the muffler.

 

[Breckinridge Elkins]

In my area, Home Depot had in-store only clearance price for a CS-400 w/18”bar. Stumbled across it online when the option to look at inventory at the various stores was still available. Had to visit two locations since the online inventory wasn’t accurate, but on Monday picked up one of the two that were available at the last store. They were in the shelves above the Echo display, but had a nice bright yellow tag with the $185 clearance price.

That's a great deal The CS400 has been replaced by the 4010 which just not as good.

 

[Breckinridge Elkins]

No need to split the muffler, just take a 7/8" metal hole saw, which is the same size as the cat and drill the cat out on the back of the muffler, this will also open up the muffler hole in the back and leave the frame that held the cat in the muffler for support. I have done a dozen are more for folks along with pulling the carb limiter caps and re tune.

I have done it both ways. It's pretty easy to heat the seam with a MAP torch and separate the halves but you are right it's better to leave the internal tube for support. The other thing I did was to open the exterior port a little and remove some material from the deflector. I leave the screens, personally.

 

[Matt93eg]

View attachment 1211848Three carburetors later and I hate the saw I use it for cutting branches and use my real saw Husky 460 to cut trees down and to cut them up."

The 460 husky and any other 4 series husky are not worthy to be called a "real" saw. They are homeowner plastic case saws with a clamshell engine design. It's a shame Husqvarna even has their name on a 4 series.

 

[WoodmanSr]

Yep, no need to split. Just gut it. I did just like you with the bit. I had to use some pliers to pull some of it out and I drilled the support out a little too, and opened up the exit port just a little. Saw will cut live oak day after day, year after year.

Makes a nice mod just gutted & slightly open deflector. Did the hole saw into honeycomb, pliers to dig out, then cleaned out all the bits & ends of media. There is a mess of wire media & brazing left attached to tube insert. Mine shown after carbide bit cleanup. (before washing out).

Very subtle trim & oversized holes at deflector. Wanted it to look less uncompromise than a full out hack.