Echo service

[Kolar55]

I'm new to this forum but thought I would share my experience with Echo service. It was fantastic. A very friendly bunch And the best part was the rep was from this country and spoke english I could understand. I had purchased a 4910 in spring and didn't cut a lot with it. Butchered a maple that had uprooted last fall-mainly to try the saw out. It was pretty hot and humid and the mosquitoes were just about able to carry a guy away. The saw ran perfect and I thought it cut well. i put it away until the temps cooled down a bit sometime in early September. One afternoon late I stepped out of the garage and saw an old barkless Ash blow over and land on the mound system. I grabbed the 4910 and put the loader on the 1025r and cut logs small enough to move them of the mound and into the woods. A few days later I got the 4910 out again and started to make them into firewood for a friend. After the fourth cut the saw just wouldn't rev up and had no power and quit when I let off the throttle. When I pulled the filter cover I was shocked to find saw dust piled on the filter about 1/8 inch deep. The filter was totally plugged. Cleaned it and made 3 cuts and it was the same thing. Repeated the regimen and it was slowing dramatically after 2 cuts. Put it away and finished the tree with my 590-no problems at all. Afterwards I pulled the filter cover on the 590 and it didn't really even need cleaning. Contacted Echo the next day and began the process-took it to the dealer with a loaded up filter for inspection etc. After a bit of discussion and trying to make it work to no avail, Echo bought the saw back and I moved on. That ash was super dusty-probably too late to even make firewood. However, there was no problem with the 590 or my little 3510 either. I was very satisfied with Echo's service and the rep. It just felt good to have a good experience with a company for a change. My hat is off to them!

 

[dwaugh]

So was it a defect or design flaw? Anyway, I'm glad they made it right, it's always nice to have a good customer service experience.

 

[pioneerguy600]

When the service center cannot get a chainsaw to run it does not give me any confidence in that center but at least the OP got his money back.

 

[Kolar55]

So was it a defect or design flaw? Anyway, I'm glad they made it right, it's always nice to have a good customer service experience.

I don't know the answer to that question. They offered to replace the saw with a 4920 and I asked if they would buy the saw back. And they did. I think given the 4910 is no longer in production, that this is why we ended this way. I also think my approach was beneficial in this case-I tried to work with them and didn't go off or act like a jerk. Mike and I actually had some nice conversation throughout the whole thing. Anyway, I was satisfied with the outcome and replaced the saw with a Stihl 261c-m. So far so good.

 

[Kolar55]

So was it a defect or design flaw? Anyway, I'm glad they made it right, it's always nice to have a good customer service experience.

At this point I'm inclined to believe there was some sort of defect to the saw. I don't know where though. This situation has been bugging me and a few days ago I came upon a used like new 4910 for a reasonable price. I bought it to see if it would pile the filter full of dust like the first one. Before going to the dirty ash i put some tape over the "g-force" port inside the air box. Went out and made ten cookies which buried the chip discharge in sawdust to really throw a mess of dust and chips up into the top of the bar. No problems at all. The saw was as strong as the first cut. Back to the shop to look at the filter and air box. Not much powder on the filter and not much inside the chamber either. So, thinking I had solved the mystery, I removed the tape and repeated the process expecting it to make it about 3 or 4 cuts before it stopped running. Not the case. After 10 cuts it was still as strong as cut 1. Upon inspection it was cleaner than the first test-which it should be be as that is what the G-force is supposed to do. So my guess is something defective with the original saw.

 

[Scyry]

I don't know the answer to that question. They offered to replace the saw with a 4920 and I asked if they would buy the saw back. And they did. I think given the 4910 is no longer in production, that this is why we ended this way. I also think my approach was beneficial in this case-I tried to work with them and didn't go off or act like a jerk. Mike and I actually had some nice conversation throughout the whole thing. Anyway, I was satisfied with the outcome and replaced the saw with a Stihl 261c-m. So far so good.

Glad to hear they took care of you. Customer service says more about a company than anything today. I had a 261C-M that was underpowered (in-laws have identical saws, and side by side mine was horrible in comparison) and wouldn't restart for hours after it got warm. Stihl was less than helpful. Saw spent months over several trips to different authorized repair shops. Ended up replacing it after it's last fit this spring.

 

[Sidecarflip]

Keep in mind that the 590's at least have leaky air filters and really need a small 'O' ring on the filter fixing stud to eliminate that issue and some Echo's can be balky to cold start if you don't follow their stating regimen exactly.

I work part time at an authorized Echo dealer who services them as well and they bend over backwards to satisfy customers. Always have. Of course the exception is, non customers who purchased a saw or other Echo power equipment from a box store. They get put in line behind customers who purchased their stuff from the dealer. How business works.

 

[EchoShindaiwaMakitaDolmar]

With the great CustServ on your defective 4910 and the very good performance from your 590, no way would I have passed up a 4920 or even better the 501P pro saw- to buy a 261. But we're all different!

 

[Woodtroll]

some Echo's can be balky to cold start if you don't follow their stating regimen exactly.

Can you elaborate on this, please? On my 590 I pull the choke idle lever, pull the cord until I get a "pop", push the lever in, and pull the cord a couple of times until it fires. I find if I try to use the decompression valve, this sequence is less reliable, so I usually don't use it. I'd honestly like to know the best way to cold-start a 590, because usually it fires up easily, but sometimes it doesn't. And this is the first saw I've owned or run extensively with a decompression valve.

And it's hard to figure out where to start in the sequence if it's cooled off some. Usually I'll try pulling the lever out and pushing it back in to set the high idle but not the choke, try that for a couple of pulls, and then choke it if I need to. I find if I choke it if it's too warm then it just floods, but that "too warm" line is hard to judge after some time has passed.

I really like this 590, but I grew up on Stihls. This 590 seems a little touchier to start, although I sure prefer the way the 590 performs otherwise.

Thank you!

 

[Sidecarflip]

You appear to have the regimen down pretty well. They don't like any choke when warm as they like to flood and that means extra pulls holding the throttle wide open.

2 things I did with mine (and I bought it from the dealer I work for part time but I work on tractors there and deliver equipment not chainsaws at all except when infrequently asked.

One, I modded the muffler. I took it off and removed the top baffle and redirected the exhaust deflector to the chain side but I kept the spark screen intact. Takes a bit of 'finesse' with a die grinder to remove the spot welds that attach the top baffle to the deflector without destroying it and I was too cheap to by the West Coast Saw billet deflector anyway and I removed the limiter caps, took off the tab and replaced them so they actually work with no limited travel. I also machined and installed a lower roller guide just below the end of the outside cover ad most importantly, added a small suitable sized 'O' ring to the air cleaner fixing stud as they tend to suck in sawdust into the carb there. Interestingly. the stock air cleaner element actually has a molded in recess for an O ring but least on mine, it was absent.

I bought a Red Beard oiled foam air cleaner and velocity stack but never installed it so if anyone wants it, I have it sitting on the shelf, even have an extra foam for it. My issue with the Red Beard air cleaner is, it's oiled foam and it's messy to not only oil but it drips under the cover and goobers up everything. Most likely flows better than the stock air cleaner but for my infrequent use it's really not warranted. I believe they cost about 50 bucks retail but I'll gift it to anyone who wants it so long as they pay the postage to send it.

 

[Woodtroll]

Thanks for your reply, I appreciate it!

I didn't use my saw long before I saw that it was trying to suck sawdust in around the filter fittings. On mine it seemed particularly bad at the carb intake connection. I bought a kit from Traverse Creek while I was ordering some other things, and I feel a lot better about that now, as it uses o-rings and a custom metal washer to seal every opening. A little bit steep for what it is, but it works well.

I expect the oiled foam filters do flow air better, but they're high maintenance and after seeing some dusted engines with the K&N filter systems I've learned that I prefer reliability and durability over absolute peak performance.

I'll have to look again, but I think my deflector already exhausts to the chain side. I was surprised how far up under the brake handle the outlet/deflector is on that saw, for sure. I'd like to open the muffler a little bit someday, but right now it runs great within the limits of the screw caps, and I know if I tweak the muffler I'll probably have to pull or modify the limiter caps also, to get it tuned again. There's always a project waiting for another day...

I'd be curious to see your roller guide addition, if you ever happen to take a photo of it you'd be willing to share.

Thanks again for your help!

 

[Sidecarflip]

On my other non forum life, I custom machine and fabricate parts for late model Triumph motorcycles so I have lots of 'parts' in inventory for working on bikes and machine tools as well and I just went to one of my assortments of O rings and found what fit and yes, I put one (larger ring) over the plastic air intake as well.

Nest thing I'll do to mine (maybe, maybe not) is a 5 degree offset key for the flywheel and a new ignition coil from a 620 Echo. The bigger ignition module has a higher rpm limiter but maybe not as it runs fine the way it is. I can pull a 20" full tooth chipper chain ripping a hardwood log no issue as it is. In reality that is plenty good enough.

O)ne thing I do do is, I keep my chains sharp all the time. I carry a spare chain with me when I'm out cutting and if the pitch starts to build on the heel of the cutters, I switch it out for a new sharp loop. I sharpen a ton of chains for my arborist customers and grind their commercial chipper knives as well. I have a pair of chain grinders, one just for sharpening teeth and one for dropping rakers.

Echo tends to set them lean from the factory which is why I pulled the limiter caps, took the tabs off but replaced them, simply to richen the mixture a bit.

I also sold at one time, K&N filters but never used them personally. I never considered an oiled gauze filter to efficiently capture dirt, just my opinion and nothing more. Only K&N filter I have and use is the intake filter on my big shop compressor.

Good saws at a very competitive price. Echo has been around for a long time as well. Have one of their straight shaft brush cutters too.

Echo don't have the following that Stihl has but they aren't as pricey either.

 

[Rob S.]

Thanks for your reply, I appreciate it!

I didn't use my saw long before I saw that it was trying to suck sawdust in around the filter fittings. On mine it seemed particularly bad at the carb intake connection. I bought a kit from Traverse Creek while I was ordering some other things, and I feel a lot better about that now, as it uses o-rings and a custom metal washer to seal every opening. A little bit steep for what it is, but it works well.

I expect the oiled foam filters do flow air better, but they're high maintenance and after seeing some dusted engines with the K&N filter systems I've learned that I prefer reliability and durability over absolute peak performance.

I'll have to look again, but I think my deflector already exhausts to the chain side. I was surprised how far up under the brake handle the outlet/deflector is on that saw, for sure. I'd like to open the muffler a little bit someday, but right now it runs great within the limits of the screw caps, and I know if I tweak the muffler I'll probably have to pull or modify the limiter caps also, to get it tuned again. There's always a project waiting for another day...

I'd be curious to see your roller guide addition, if you ever happen to take a photo of it you'd be willing to share.

Thanks again for your help!

After the 590 is warm put a piece of Velcro on the throttle to hold it on or hold throttle while pulling cord it will start that's how I do it

 

[Rob S.]

Can you elaborate on this, please? On my 590 I pull the choke idle lever, pull the cord until I get a "pop", push the lever in, and pull the cord a couple of times until it fires. I find if I try to use the decompression valve, this sequence is less reliable, so I usually don't use it. I'd honestly like to know the best way to cold-start a 590, because usually it fires up easily, but sometimes it doesn't. And this is the first saw I've owned or run extensively with a decompression valve.

And it's hard to figure out where to start in the sequence if it's cooled off some. Usually I'll try pulling the lever out and pushing it back in to set the high idle but not the choke, try that for a couple of pulls, and then choke it if I need to. I find if I choke it if it's too warm then it just floods, but that "too warm" line is hard to judge after some time has passed.

I really like this 590, but I grew up on Stihls. This 590 seems a little touchier to start, although I sure prefer the way the 590 performs otherwise.

Thank you!

 

[Rob S.]

I posted a reply further down hope you see it

 

[Sidecarflip]

After the 590 is warm put a piece of Velcro on the throttle to hold it on or hold throttle while pulling cord it will start that's how I do it

Good idea I never considered and much easier than manually holding it open.