Edison Motors announces their pickup truck kit

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Which required the use of a truck crane to remove the dpf/doc.
One boxes are always heavy no matter what engine they connect to. A few years ago I had a contract with DDEC to replace the input and output bungs on their one boxes (Freightliner). They are fabbed from the least expensive stainless they can buy and the bungs rot off from road salt. They supplied the new bungs and I supplied the TIG welding. I got 175 bucks each for everyone I did and I did a bunch of them, over a hundred for sure. Took me about 30 minutes for each one after removing the rotted bung, prepping the area and TIG welding the new bung in. Not bad money actually and on a lot of them I just 'washed' the old filler rod around the new bung as there was plenty of filler rod present. That 'dried' up once they got smart and started building them from better stainless. No worry about 'sugaring' either. They weren't concerned with that so no argon purge needed. Inside rot was never a concern either so long as the bungs were replaced with new ones. I had to use the shop crane to move them around however. At one time I must have had 30 of them sitting here. Silver tombstones....
 
Not really . My sister in law lives in NYC she came up and was commenting on the beautiful lake at the end of my road I told her that it was a NYC reservoir. She ask “for what” ? Told her that was her drinking water she didn’t believe me . And she’s a NYC school teacher

I think a lot more people know where their electricity comes from than their water.
 
Think it’s more they have no idea how their electricity is made . A friend showed me an old Con Edison instructional video . Showed the coal plants scattered throughout the city . Today the plants are natural gas NY doesn’t have a coal plant in operation. We had one on the Hudson across from Wappingers it is right on the water adjacent to the freight train line in Orange County . Trains used to drop coal there every day . It’s a NG plant now
 
I’ve replaced two oil pans in the Cummins . Was told by the shop a diesel repair only place after the second one that the problem is from inside the pan . It seems if you don’t use it on a regular basis the acids build up and sludge forms . He showed me the old one the rot was in the low area around the drain plug . I replaced the first one I’ll never do it again .
I never have ANY sludge in an oil pan or under the valve covers, ever. I always add Nano-Borate at every oil change and NB dissolves any sludge or varnish associated with modern synthetic motor oil. It's not cheap, but it works. Use it in my tractors too. Last time my dealer ran the overhead on my 6000+ hour Kubota M9 and Dennis removed the valve cover, there was absolutely NO sludge or varnish on the overhead at all. Same with my 97, 7.3. I had to replace the right side injector harness which also entails removing the valve cover. Same deal, no sludge or coloring from varnish. In fact it looked like it was brand new inside and I didn't even have to wipe out the valve cover as there was noting on the inside of it. You could easily read the injector serial numbers on each one and they were the pretty Navistar yellow - orange as well. Great stuff but not cheap. I buy mine from Archoil in pints. They sell gallons as well but the pints are easier to handle for me. The suspend it in mineral oil and you need to shake up the bottles before using. Try it, you'll like it.
 
Think it’s more they have no idea how their electricity is made . A friend showed me an old Con Edison instructional video . Showed the coal plants scattered throughout the city . Today the plants are natural gas NY doesn’t have a coal plant in operation. We had one on the Hudson across from Wappingers it is right on the water adjacent to the freight train line in Orange County . Trains used to drop coal there every day . It’s a NG plant now

I think you're getting into semantics. The fact is, at least around here the grid is enormous and is fed regionally in the US, as I understand it. The water supplies for various municipalities vary greatly from city to city in some cases. For example, SF gets a lot of it's water from the Hetch Hetchy reservoir that is 167 miles away. My water comes from my well, but the local water company uses local reservoirs, ground water storage and wells, and water from the Sacramento River Delta which is quite a ways away from here.

Just about everyone I talk to knows how our electricity is generated here in the west.
 
The used market is going to look pretty good over the next few years. My Mach-E GT Perf Ed has dropped in value from about $65k last year to about $35k this year with less than 20k miles on it. It's practically new, looks and drives like it. I hear you on the controls though.
Why has the value dropped so much? Most of my vehicles have held value or gone up despite the mileage also climbing since the pandemic.

If/when the battery technology proves itself over the long haul I could see myself in a used EV as a commuter. Until battery tech proves it can last a solid 15 years like an ICE can with moderate maintenance....it's just too big an unknown for me.
That, or the replacement cost will have to come down to much more manageable prices. I hear both have and will continue to improve but they haven't been out long enough for my comfort.
 
Why has the value dropped so much? Most of my vehicles have held value or gone up despite the mileage also climbing since the pandemic.

If/when the battery technology proves itself over the long haul I could see myself in a used EV as a commuter. Until battery tech proves it can last a solid 15 years like an ICE can with moderate maintenance....it's just too big an unknown for me.
That, or the replacement cost will have to come down to much more manageable prices. I hear both have and will continue to improve but they haven't been out long enough for my comfort.

There's a few reasons for the drop. First, there's a LOT more choices on the market this year. Second, Tesla has significantly reduced the prices of their cars. Third, it seems like most of the people who want an EV now have one. Fourth, the Mach-E and specifically the GT Performance Edition were supply constrained a year ago and now they're on the lots. From there you can point your finger at a public charging network that is worse now than last year unless you drive a Tesla. I'm sure there's other reasons as well.

I suspect most of the batteries produced today will last 15 years, with some sort of linear degradation in performance. If a battery has gone 5-10 years without failing, my GUESS is it's a good one and will continue to work for several more years. There are now a lot of 10 year old Tesla batteries on the road just charging and discharging as required.
 
I think you're getting into semantics. The fact is, at least around here the grid is enormous and is fed regionally in the US, as I understand it. The water supplies for various municipalities vary greatly from city to city in some cases. For example, SF gets a lot of it's water from the Hetch Hetchy reservoir that is 167 miles away. My water comes from my well, but the local water company uses local reservoirs, ground water storage and wells, and water from the Sacramento River Delta which is quite a ways away from here.

Just about everyone I talk to knows how our electricity is generated here in the west.
Electricity is bought on as needed basis here . It mostly comes from hydro or NG , solar and wind are very low on the scale so some comes from them but not all that much .

Most water for residential is well around me mine is a natural spring . My rental it comes from the Hudson River .
 
Electricity is bought on as needed basis here . It mostly comes from hydro or NG , solar and wind are very low on the scale so some comes from them but not all that much .

Most water for residential is well around me mine is a natural spring . My rental it comes from the Hudson River .

We're a big mix, with NG leading the way. There are times where the solar contribution soars, and other times like right now when it isn't much. Here's the low-down on CA production from 2022. In 2023 we got a big boost in hydro with all the storms we got last winter.

https://www.sandiegouniontribune.co...hanging-but-natural-gas-still-the-no-1-source
 
Pulling the cab also entails an extra thousand buck charge (at current labor rates), something I don't ever have to do. and Riff-Raff diesel has all the OBS parts I ever need anyway. I'm a frequent buyer on there. I can do everything short of a total rebuild and not pull the cab and frankly, don't want to anyway. Only thing I cannot do is replace the oil pan (Ford's 7.3 pans are noted for rusting out) which is a non issue with me anyway because I keep it coated with rust prevention. To replace the pan on a 4wd, you must either jack up the motor to clear the cross member or pull it out. Riff Raff sells even the delete pedestal for the turbo. I have one installed and the delete module as well.

Besides, the OBS trucks hold their value very well, especially the forged rod 7.3 I own, versus the sintered rod engine.
It's pretty obvious you haven't done up pipes, down pipes, manifolds, head gaskets or a litany of other regular fixes to obs style truck with a 7.3l engine. The oil pan is a 2 hour job, tops. I've forgotten how many I did at my uncles shop. Doesn't matter if it's an obs or the newer style. Pop the mount bolts, jack the front of the engine up and have at it. Obs hold their value for a bunch of made up bs reasons. Just like the dreamed up 97 trucks are somehow better then the older or newer trucks. I got news for you they arnt. The updates were done for the 96 model year and carried over into 97. Didn't make any more or less power and weren't any better or worse then the 94/95 engines. The early 99's out ran them, and wasn't till ford pooched them out in late 01 for the 02 model year that there were any internal differences in a 7.3l engine.
Stop cocking off about forged rods, they started using them in 2002 model year. The sintered rods can take 450hp before you have to worry about them, and you'll split the stock block between the cam tunnel and crank mains around that hp level anyway. Literally been there done that. We stopped trying to crank big power out of them because they cost too much and broke too often. Heck I got 3 of them sitting in my driveway right now and another stashed at my brother's house. Only one still has a 7.3l in it.
Pulling the cab takes a couple hours, pick it up with the lift and everything is easily accessible. They were literally made to lift off with ease. Takes a few times to get it down, but once you do it, you'll never go back to screwing around like a cave man.
Dang. You drive that much every day? I'd be looking for a different line of work.



The used market is going to look pretty good over the next few years. My Mach-E GT Perf Ed has dropped in value from about $65k last year to about $35k this year with less than 20k miles on it. It's practically new, looks and drives like it. I hear you on the controls though.



Who is they? I would guess 95%+ people know where their electricity comes from. It's not 2015 anymore...
Why do you assume how many miles I pit on my vehicle has anything to do with my job? It doesn't BTW, just the amount of driving I do. Everything is close, but far enough away it's at least an hour round trip worth of driving. Just yesterday, I had to drop something off at my parents house, turn around and run into town to pick somethings up, back home and then to work. Just shy of 200 miles before I got to work. I'd have to check to be sure, but I'm pretty sure I'll be over 300 miles til I get home.
 
One boxes are always heavy no matter what engine they connect to. A few years ago I had a contract with DDEC to replace the input and output bungs on their one boxes (Freightliner). They are fabbed from the least expensive stainless they can buy and the bungs rot off from road salt. They supplied the new bungs and I supplied the TIG welding. I got 175 bucks each for everyone I did and I did a bunch of them, over a hundred for sure. Took me about 30 minutes for each one after removing the rotted bung, prepping the area and TIG welding the new bung in. Not bad money actually and on a lot of them I just 'washed' the old filler rod around the new bung as there was plenty of filler rod present. That 'dried' up once they got smart and started building them from better stainless. No worry about 'sugaring' either. They weren't concerned with that so no argon purge needed. Inside rot was never a concern either so long as the bungs were replaced with new ones. I had to use the shop crane to move them around however. At one time I must have had 30 of them sitting here. Silver tombstones....
Assuming you're talking about a doc or dpf (no mfg I've ever delt with has called it a one box.) They can range from being very light to extremely heavy. The size is based off engine size/hp/ airflow through the engine amd the actual aftertrestment system being used.
 
I never have ANY sludge in an oil pan or under the valve covers, ever. I always add Nano-Borate at every oil change and NB dissolves any sludge or varnish associated with modern synthetic motor oil. It's not cheap, but it works. Use it in my tractors too. Last time my dealer ran the overhead on my 6000+ hour Kubota M9 and Dennis removed the valve cover, there was absolutely NO sludge or varnish on the overhead at all. Same with my 97, 7.3. I had to replace the right side injector harness which also entails removing the valve cover. Same deal, no sludge or coloring from varnish. In fact it looked like it was brand new inside and I didn't even have to wipe out the valve cover as there was noting on the inside of it. You could easily read the injector serial numbers on each one and they were the pretty Navistar yellow - orange as well. Great stuff but not cheap. I buy mine from Archoil in pints. They sell gallons as well but the pints are easier to handle for me. The suspend it in mineral oil and you need to shake up the bottles before using. Try it, you'll like it.
Not really a sludge mine the valve covers rockers looked like new . As did the crank area and related parts . My understanding is the acids and condensation build up and settle in the pan like a fuel oil tank in a home . And if not used regularly it eats up the oil pan . I’ll have to try that product
 
Not really a sludge mine the valve covers rockers looked like new . As did the crank area and related parts . My understanding is the acids and condensation build up and settle in the pan like a fuel oil tank in a home . And if not used regularly it eats up the oil pan . I’ll have to try that product
Acid builds up as the additives in the oil are used up, just a by-product of an internal combustion engine. Short trips, long periods of inactivity, high sulfur fuels all contribute to it building rapidly. Any quality oil should be more then up to the task of keeping it within reasonable limits.
 
Acid builds up as the additives in the oil are used up, just a by-product of an internal combustion engine. Short trips, long periods of inactivity, high sulfur fuels all contribute to it building rapidly. Any quality oil should be more then up to the task of keeping it within reasonable limits.
I use Rotella or delvac exclusively. But my truck sits for long periods of time I have started changing the oil by time not miles because I only put 3 k miles on it since last December
 
My trucks and expedition get oil changes once a year anymore. Just pig too much fuel to use if I don't have to use any of them. I put more miles on my 96 then any of the others, and I still managed to keep it under 5k miles this year. Just changed the oil in the vw the other week..sure doesn't take long to get it to its 6k oci anymore.
 
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