elmnut
ArboristSite Operative
I am looking to buy an electric saw, Husky, Makita, Stihl? what do you know about them?
electric chainsaw
- Thread starter elmnut
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B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
Only one I've seen that is tough enough for real use. Stihl MSE 220. Not cheap and weights a full 11 +lbs.
Huskies okay but not as tough. Dolmar is what I might look at 3rd (although I haven't actually used one). Then maybe Milwaukee or Makita (my Milwaukee looks suspiciously similar to the Makita, and both made in Japan).
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elmnut
ArboristSite Operative
Any one know where to find Dolmar around central NY?
Timberhauler
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've got a Makita skill saw,and it's been a good one.I don't know about their electric chainsaws,but I'd check them out if I were looking for one just because I've had such good service out of that skillsaw
Justsaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
Like everything else good ones are expensive. I would stay away from the new Skil, Ryobi, Remington, Mcculloch, Homelite, or Poulan saws unless you are only looking to use for a couple of cuts once a month or so. They will not hold up to a lot of continuous use.
The ones that will usually seem to start around $250.00 here.
If you are not in a hurry check around for a used older Milwakee, B+d, or Porter Cable. My father picked up an older Milwakee this summer and it is much better built than any brand of new ones that I have seen or used recently.
The ones that will usually seem to start around $250.00 here.
If you are not in a hurry check around for a used older Milwakee, B+d, or Porter Cable. My father picked up an older Milwakee this summer and it is much better built than any brand of new ones that I have seen or used recently.
precaud
ArboristSite Operative
I have a Makita UC4000 and love it. It's very well built and a joy to use.
Be careful when using an electric model. Most chaps and such PPE are not much of a match for an electric powered saw. An electric motor is instantly at full power as soon as the switch is engaged and will cut right through your normally chain-stopping safety gear. My Dad almost removed a finger tip a couple of years ago. Holding back on a branch with his left hand while holding his little electric chainsaw with his right. He just nicked his left-index finger. He should have gone to the emergency room but evidently had a large supply of band-aids and neosporin at home. He said it took about a month to heal up.
B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
I agree. Not only is torque instant, they can sort of grab if turned on when touching wood. And another safety thing is my 220 which is a beast compared to others I've seen, takes quite a long time to return back to idle. The tendency when using it to trim blocks is to want to set it down too early.
I find my 220 pretty handy around the studio and in the studio, though. Cost more than my 5100 by a bunch.
precaud
ArboristSite Operative
Yeah, all true, but urb's dad's problem was mostly caused by only one hand on the saw...
B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've heard stories like that a lot. People get casual because it seems so weenie compared to a gas saw. But it will cut your left hand in a hurry if it gets a chance.
deadtrees
ArboristSite Operative
I have a Milwaukee electric saw that is the only thing I use around the yard.
It works great and I like how quiet it is. I got it for $50 at an auction some years ago. People will say you need 12 ga. extension cord but that would only be at max power. I drag out a hundred feet of 14 ga. cord with no problem at all. On a 15 amp circuit. It has a 16 inch bar with 3/8 low pro chain. I will not try to one hand it though. It is a rear handle and is too heavy and has too much power to do that. It does take a little time to wind down after a cut so I have to be carefull to not set it down too fast. It does
have a real chain break that cuts the power and stops the chain. It has a slip clutch at the sprocket and I do have to have it tightened up all the way for it not to slip but then it has plenty of power. I even rip big blocks with it. I would not hesitate to have a good electric saw for work around the yard.
I have even used it with my generator.
It works great and I like how quiet it is. I got it for $50 at an auction some years ago. People will say you need 12 ga. extension cord but that would only be at max power. I drag out a hundred feet of 14 ga. cord with no problem at all. On a 15 amp circuit. It has a 16 inch bar with 3/8 low pro chain. I will not try to one hand it though. It is a rear handle and is too heavy and has too much power to do that. It does take a little time to wind down after a cut so I have to be carefull to not set it down too fast. It does
have a real chain break that cuts the power and stops the chain. It has a slip clutch at the sprocket and I do have to have it tightened up all the way for it not to slip but then it has plenty of power. I even rip big blocks with it. I would not hesitate to have a good electric saw for work around the yard.
I have even used it with my generator.
B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
That long a cord of only 14 ga will work, but I sure wouldn't do that to my $500+ 220. I've know people that have damaged electric motors doing that.
At 100 ft, I would rather use 12 ga. (or bigger if I had it.)
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Equally as important, cut off the useless consumer grade moulded plugs on both ends and put on some commercial grade ends!
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
My brother-in-law runs a mill in Montana - they use a lot of electric chainsws inside in the winter, and have tried every brand. The Husky worked o.k., but cost a bunch to repair as the entire motor had to be replaced instead of just brushes etc (I haven't looked into it - that's his information). The Makita didn't last the year, the "Remington" lasted less than a day....
They just buy the Stihl MSE220 now - they have a bunch of them.
I have an E20 with a 16 inch 3/8 ES bar. It's the older version of the MSE220. Works great, but yes, it's a torque-monster and need to be treated with care. It's the only saw I run a safety chain on...
They just buy the Stihl MSE220 now - they have a bunch of them.
I have an E20 with a 16 inch 3/8 ES bar. It's the older version of the MSE220. Works great, but yes, it's a torque-monster and need to be treated with care. It's the only saw I run a safety chain on...
Stihl E30
I just acquired a used Stihl E30 with 3,4 hp and 30" bar on it (.404 chain)
for my saw collection.
will post some pictures as soon as I get it.
Having no experience with electric saws and looking at the safety comments above, I better take care starting this lil monster :crazy1:
I just acquired a used Stihl E30 with 3,4 hp and 30" bar on it (.404 chain)
for my saw collection.will post some pictures as soon as I get it.
Having no experience with electric saws and looking at the safety comments above, I better take care starting this lil monster :crazy1:
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Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
That is a rare old brute in the USA!!!!
elmnut
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks for all the info! The parts to repair my husky 316 cost more than the saw! The Stihl sounds like the way to go.(as always!!!)
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