Electric chainsaws?

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LondonNeil

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What's the views on electric saws these days? With sachsdolmakita stepping away from petrol saws are electric getting comparible? I struggle to see a battery saw competing with a 70+ cc saw for performance or for cost when a days worth of batteries are factored in. Although for smaller saws I guess they may be comparible and with lower noise and no faff with fuel there are advantages. I'm just idly thinking really but for some of my use I guess a corded electric would be great if it's performance and build quality were up to it. I get ARB waste and process my own firewood, and mum's, and do maybe 12-15 m³ a year. Mostly that's done with a little ms180, but also have a husqvarna 365 which gets a few tanks use each year to buck the bigger stuff. I actually already have an outside power socket on the outside of the garage at the spot I use to cut mostly, and with the 365 being there if I need to do any cutting away from home (the occasional help a neighbour) I wonder about selling the ms180 and getting a corded electric. The Makita UC 4051 looks like it could outperform the 180 and is slightly cheaper new. Is it time to trade in and go electric for the little saw? Something with the convenience, and a little more go, maybe a 12 or 14" bar, would be tempting if I got maybe half the cost from selling the 180, which maybe seems achievable/fair when I take a quick look on eBay. So, what are the corded Makitas like? Or the corded Stihl? Or any others?

@Philbert and @dancan , you've used electric haven't you?
 
I have posted in many threads like this. Gas, corded, and battery saws each have their advantages. There are good quality and cheap versions of each.

If I am in the woods and cutting large stuff, I want a gas saw. If I am at home, and within 100 feet of an outlet, I want one of my corded electric saws. For lighter or convenience cutting, I like a battery saw.

Many people will buy a $30 electric saw and complain about it. BUT IT’S A $30 SAW! What did you expect? there are some decent, corded electric homeowner saws that sell for about $100 over here, and some better saws in the $200 plus range. Of course, it’s not the cost that determines the quality, but there is some link between cost and quality.

I bought some used rental, corded, Makita‘s from the Home Depot that I really liked. I am using some Oregon corded saws that sell for about $100 now. I know that this sounds like CAD, but don’t sell your MS180; adopt a corded electric that you can afford, and use them both. Later on, if you find that you are never using one, you can think about selling it then.

Philbert
 
This is an old photo of storm damage wood (yes, the power does come back on) I cleaned up at a friend's house with an older, used, Makita (14Amp), rental saw, and (Gasp!) PowerSharp chain.
Makita UC4000.jpg
And some of the smaller stuff I cut with a battery saw (Oregon 40V), just to exercise it a little.
P1103482.jpg

Posted this one before, also, but one battery (Redback 120V battery saw) helping another friend with storm damage (silver maple).

IMG_0275.jpg

Philbert
 
Thanks Philbert. Keeping the 180 sounds good advice.

The 180 new is about £180+ now, I paid a little less I think when I got it. The biggest corded Makita, the, 4051, is 2kW, 230v or 110v. (health and safety regs mean construction workers must use transformers and110v for all tools on site). That is about £157. I just looked at the only Stihl, only 1.4kW but only £140 ish these days.

Hmmm, tempted to get the Makita.
 
Battery and corded electric saws are sized to a 30-40cc gas saw. They were never designed to run toe to toe with a 70cc pro saw.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The mse 180 is one of the best corded saws you will find. The corded 4030? Makita is right there with it in terms iof power and quality. If you want 70cc power the very expensive, mse 220, has it, but with a lower chain speed compared to a gas saw. The new mse 250 is rated at more power, however it also weighs substantially less so I question its pro quality build when compared to its 220 predecessor.
 
Battery and corded electric saws are sized to a 30-40cc gas saw. They were never designed to run toe to toe with a 70cc pro saw.
Battery chainsaws and corded electric chainsaws are separate animals. And the DeWalt battery saw in the video above is not a ‘Pro’ battery saw: it is a saw for people who already own DeWalt batteries.

The STIHL MSE250 corded saw probably had more torque than most of the 50cc saws around. And the Husqvarna 540i is probably a better, current, example of a ‘Professional, battery chainsaw.

And ‘Wranglerstar’ is not where I go to for meaningful or unbiased comparisons.

I go to contractor tool shows and see unbelievable, battery powered tools, including 14 inch cut off saws, table saws, air compressors, etc.

I’ve used corded electric chainsaws for over 30 years, and battery chainsaws for almost 10 years (!). They keep getting better, but you won’t find the better ones at Home Depot, Lowe’s, etc. , unless you visit their rental departments.

Philbert
 
I don’t like corded / electric. Cody sums it up perfectly. I had a Makita and I wouldn’t get another..


What was the voltage and amps of the Makita corded you had?

"In Australia the standard voltage is 230 V and the frequency is 50 Hz." I think European standard plugs are 20 amps. It is pretty easy to figure kilowats and convert to horsepower.

As for the battery stuff it is kind of a derail from post 1. I think the use case is tree services are dumping tree parts at his lot. Perhaps a hypothetical as it says London.
 
What was the voltage and amps of the Makita corded you had?

"In Australia the standard voltage is 230 V and the frequency is 50 Hz." I think European standard plugs are 20 amps. It is pretty easy to figure kilowats and convert to horsepower.

As for the battery stuff it is kind of a derail from post 1. I think the use case is tree services are dumping tree parts at his lot. Perhaps a hypothetical as it says London.
Hey, this is the one https://www.makita.com.au/power-gar...tric-chainsaw-400mm-16#product-specifications
 
Battery chainsaws and corded electric chainsaws are separate animals. And the DeWalt battery saw in the video above is not a ‘Pro’ battery saw: it is a saw for people who already own DeWalt batteries.

The STIHL MSE250 corded saw probably had more torque than most of the 50cc saws around. And the Husqvarna 540i is probably a better, current, example of a ‘Professional, battery chainsaw.

And ‘Wranglerstar’ is not where I go to for meaningful or unbiased comparisons.

I go to contractor tool shows and see unbelievable, battery powered tools, including 14 inch cut off saws, table saws, air compressors, etc.

I’ve used corded electric chainsaws for over 30 years, and battery chainsaws for almost 10 years (!). They keep getting better, but you won’t find the better ones at Home Depot, Lowe’s, etc. , unless you visit their rental departments.

Philbert
I must admit I don’t go to Cody for reliable comparisons, though that one was a fair and accurate one I believe.

I have seen so many terrible comparisons by chainsaw manufacturers at these demo shows it’s embarrassing, case in point -
 
That is a sidewinder: motor perpendicular to the chain. I have a couple of those in other brands.

My Makita (UC4000 - so old that it has been replaced by 2, subsequent models) is an in-line design, like the Husqvarna/ Jonsered electric saws. It handles nice in tight spaces, is well balanced, and I assume has a worm gear inside. Sold for about $240 new under the Makita or Dolmar colors. 120 Volt, 14 Amps. I run it off a 100 foot 12 or 14 gauge extension cord.

Never tried one of the STIHL electrics. I often bought Sears / Poulan corded electric saws at garage sales for $10 (worth it just got the bar and chain).

Philbert
 
Neil,
My dad has a corded Husqvarna EL316 (from memory) 1.8kw. It has stacks of torque but slow chain speed. Your neighbour’s will probably appreciate you getting an electric saw. I would keep the ms180 and try a corded saw, you’ll probably end up keeping both.
 
Thanks. UK/Europe is 240v 13amp,. 50hz

I watched a few reviews yesterday on YouTube. The slower chain speed was quite apparent and puts me off. However a guy not so far away is selling a 3 year old Makita on eBay so half price and I'm considering it. I could probably sell on again without losing much so a low cost try out, but after seeing the reviews I'm feeling...mleh.

Why don't they put a bigger sprocket and shorter bar on to give a faster cut? Seems strange.
 
Thanks. UK/Europe is 240v 13amp,. 50hz

I watched a few reviews yesterday on YouTube. The slower chain speed was quite apparent and puts me off. However a guy not so far away is selling a 3 year old Makita on eBay so half price and I'm considering it. I could probably sell on again without losing much so a low cost try out, but after seeing the reviews I'm feeling...mleh.

Why don't they put a bigger sprocket and shorter bar on to give a faster cut? Seems strange.
they have to design them to be idiot proof neil, i do a lot of burnt out electric mowers where they tried to cut long grass
on a petrol saw a novice will just burn out the clutch (non warranted) but if you overload a corded saw it will burn out the field coils, hence the low chainspeed
you could probably run a much bigger sprocket
 
Which makes sense as they are the niche that appeals to the middle class idiot with a couple of small trees to tidy in his garden and no sense.
Although Makita has overload and thermal protection it seems, the motor is stopped if it bogs, so....hmm.
I wonder if it's a standard rim sprocket that could be swapped out for a larger one.... Probably not.
 
The slower chain speed was quite apparent and puts me off.

Try it, and see how it works overall, before obsessing on on detail.

Quieter, easier to start, no fuel to buy/mix/go bad/dispose of, no exhaust smell on your clothes, no carbs to adjust, no air filters to clean, no spark plugs to replace, store indoors, . . .

Many of these electric saws do not use the standard sprockets, so changing them can be an issue.

Philbert
 

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