Electric sharpener wheel size

[Allar]

Hello guys, im a new guy.
I purchased a electric sharpener Ozaki XLP950, it seems to be a clone of oregon 511a.
It' came with 2 wheels, 3mm and 4.5mm.

I have husqvarna 353 and i'm using Oregon 21BPX chain.

Non of these wheels are the correct size.
So i would like to purchase a decent wheel from oregon , but i need to know, what size do i need for my chain(s).
All my chains are .325 pitch.
i think i need either 1/8 or 3/16.
please help, i don't wanna waste my money on wrong size wheel.

 

[Canker Mechanic]

Either will do the job....how often do you want to replace chains?

 

[Canker Mechanic]

It is not the wheel size it's the chain.

 

[Allar]

Either will do the job....how often do you want to replace chains?

That's what im thinking aswell.. i want to be able to sharpen chain with a file aswell, even thought i suck at it.
I guess i'll get the 1/8 wheel.
I would feel better if someone with an experience could clarify that it's the right thing to do :]

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

3mm is 1/8".. well... 3.175mm, but close enough.
Can use either wheel for .325 chain. I normally use the 1/8" wheel.

 

[Allar]

3mm is 1/8".. well... 3.175mm, but close enough.
Can use either wheel for .325 chain. I normally use the 1/8" wheel.

1.8'' is considered as 3.2mm , there isn't alot of difference but i would feel better with the perfect size wheel.
Original wheels are wrong size and probably cheap aswell, so that's the main reasons why i wanna get an oregon wheel.
Oregon wheel is the correct size (1/8) and costs $21 + $5 for transport.
So yeah i'll get the wheel from the oregon. Thanks for the help!

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

So... why did you even ask?

Two people just said either wheel size is fine. .175mm is literally a thick blonde one... 3mm is .118", so 0.002" small.... ie... it's an 1/8"
I promise, chain isn't THAT fussy!

Can't say I'm an expert, or "expert woodsman with 20,000 hrs haha..", but I sharpen about a dozen chains a week between harvester chain and saws (Ours and customer's). I've been doing it since 2011.

 

[Allar]

So... why did you even ask?

Two people just said either wheel size is fine. .175mm is literally a thick blonde one... 3mm is .118", so 0.002" small.... ie... it's an 1/8"
I promise, chain isn't THAT fussy!

Can't say I'm an expert, or "expert woodsman with 20,000 hrs haha..", but I sharpen about a dozen chains a week between harvester chain and saws (Ours and customer's). I've been doing it since 2011.

So in your opinion, i could just use my 3mm wheel? What about the quality of wheel thought? I'm sure these are some cheap poor quality wheels but i have no idea if oregon wheels will improve the sharpness. I just want everything to be perfect ,i barely use hand file, so i want my chains to be top notch when i go to forest.. Usually i bring 2 chains with me.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

I'm not familiar with that brand, so I couldn't say. Oregon isn't exactly the "end all, be all" either though.
I had an Oregon wheel blow apart a few weeks ago (chain was loose and it bound up), replaced with a new Oregon wheel and the thing was out of round a good 1/8"!)

 

[Philbert]

Welcome to A.S.!

Hello guys, im a new guy.
I purchased a electric sharpener Ozaki XLP950, it seems to be a clone of oregon 511a. . . I have husqvarna 353 and i'm using Oregon 21BPX chain. . .

First off, the instructions that come with most grinders stink (and that is a nice word for it). Look through some other grinder threads here on A.S. for some tips on use. Here is a link to the 511A grinder manual, which is still weak, but should generally apply to your clone grinder as well:
https://www.baileysonline.com/PDF/Oregon511amanual_english.pdf

Wheel sizes are confusing, because they don't always align with file diameter sizes for the same chain. They can also vary between manufacturers - e.g. some old .325 chain by Oregon or STIHL may use a different diameter file, or different thickness grinding wheel, than new ones. Some people use a smaller diameter file, or thinner wheel, near the end of the cutter's life than when new. Those choices are up to you. You may want something different, or change to make things 'look right'.

Most chains will be sharpened with a 1/8" or 3/16" wheel. A 1/4" or 5/16" wheel will typically be used for depth gauges. Most grinders will come with 3 wheels (1/8" , 3/16", and 1/4") when new. Here are links to Oregon recommendations for file sizes, wheel sizes, filing and grinding angles, for their current chains:
https://www.oregonproducts.com/pdfs/GrindingAngles.pdf
https://www.oregonproducts.com/pdfs/FilingAngles.pdf

*I grind most chains at 30° / 55° / 0° (unless someone asks for something different).

.. i want to be able to sharpen chain with a file aswell, . . . I would feel better if someone with an experience could clarify that it's the right thing to do

I do this. I grind chains at home, but may touch up with a file in the field. To do this I have to "grind as I file, and file as I grind"! In other words, I cannot grind with the flat side of the wheel if I want to file the same cutter with a round file. If I set a 10° 'down angle' with the grinder, I have to do the same with the file. Otherwise, I will spend half my grinding or filing time re-shaping the cutter from the last event, rather than just touching up the dull edges.


Good luck. Let us know how it works out for you.

Philbert

 

[BC WetCoast]

I just want everything to be perfect ,i barely use hand file, so i want my chains to be top notch when i go to forest.. Usually i bring 2 chains with me.

The fastest way to perfection is to lower expectations.

 

[Fletch->]

I'm thinking of getting an electric grinder and you answered part of my question. I have 2 saws (3/8 pitch and 5/32 file) and (.325 pitch and 3/16 file). I'm aware that the 1/8 disc should work for both chains. My question is what file to use in the field after using the grinder. While I can sharpen good with a file I live on ledge and have a need to fix all my "Rock Chains". As careful as I try to be I took out a brand new chain in 20Min on a 24" beech, broke some of the teeth right off.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

The fastest way to perfection is to lower expectations.

Funny, my VA shrink said that when I was discussing a hired hand that was stressing me out. I fired him instead.

 

[Fletch->]

Follow-up..... I do need a 3/16 disk on my Jonsered (.325 pitch and 3/16 file) according to the link on the oregon site....So I'm assuming use the same file. I think I got confused with the info on the various grinders I looked at suggesting I could use the 1/4 on both pitch's. So i will need a 1/4 file for the smaller chain?

 

[Philbert]

Welcome to A.S. !

I have 2 saws (3/8 pitch and 5/32 file) and (.325 pitch and 3/16 file). I'm aware that the 1/8 disc should work for both chains.

Is your 3/8 pitch chain 'full sized' 3/8, or 'low profile' (a.k.a. 'Picco', a.k.a 'Mini') chain? makes a big difference. Photos or model numbers help if you are not sure. See the charts I posted above (Post #10).

*There are always exceptions* The OP describes using a clone of a full-sized Oregon 511A style grinder that works with different thickness wheels. The less expensive 'mini-grinders' only come with an 1/8" wheel, so by default, they are used for everything. But you get a different cutter shape.

More info on min-grinders in this thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/hf-chain-grinder-thread.268303/

My question is what file to use in the field after using the grinder.

Again, see Post #10. If your file does not match your grinding wheel, and vice-versa, you will have to totally reshape each cutter before you file it. You would be better off just carrying extra chains into the field and swapping them out.

I think I got confused with the info on the various grinders I looked at suggesting I could use the 1/4 on both pitch's. So i will need a 1/4 file for the smaller chain?

1/4" = 4/16" > 3/16"

1/4" (or (5/16") wheels are normally used for the depth gauges (*although, they can be used on some large pitch chains, not commonly used on hand-held saws).

Philbert

 

[Fletch->]

Thanks for the replies.
Post #10 lead me down the right rabbit hole and I hope this post helps someone else...you need the product series AND the Part number!
Thanks Philbert for link to min-grinders in you last post.
Woops In my last post I typed 1/4" should have been 1/8" Disk .....what's an 1/8" here or there

From Oregon's confusing charts ...

Poulon Pro 4218 (The pakaging in front of me only shows Part Number S62) which is product series 91 (Which is Not on the packaging) https://www.oregonproducts.com/homeowner/lookups/selguide.aspx?BusId=CONS&SellReg=USA&LangId=ENG
With the product series now you can now figure out the info in your link: https://www.oregonproducts.com/pdfs/GrindingAngles.pdf

Jonsered 2145 chain full .325 from local dealer from a roll.
Part number g72, h72 ,m72, j72 which are product series 95 chains: https://www.oregonproducts.com/homeowner/lookups/selguide.aspx?BusId=CONS&SellReg=USA&LangId=ENG
With the product series now you can now figure out the info in your link: https://www.oregonproducts.com/pdfs/GrindingAngles.pdf

Last question: If I use the 1/8 disk..... I use a 1/8 file
If I use the 3/16 disk..... I use a 3/16 file
>>>Fletch->

 

[Philbert]

The Oregon 'S' series chains are 3/8 low-profile pitch, .050 gauge chains. 'S62' means that yours has 62 drive links in the loop. Supposed to make it easier to remember at the store.

They have '91' stamped on each drive link, and sharpen with a 1/8" grinding wheel or a 5/16" file. I know - they are not the same. That's just the way it is.

Info for other Oregon chains is in the charts referenced above.

Philbert

 

[Fletch->]

"stamped on each drive link"
I knew that there was a stamp on the link...... did not corilate it to different manufacturues
FYI: I did an inventory of chains and found info on:

http://www.premiumsawchain.co.uk/pages/Chain_Number_Conversion_Chart/
https://www.baileysonline.com/Pages/Chainsaw-Chain-Cross-Reference-Chart/
http://www.chainsawchains.eu/CHAIN-IDENTIFICATION__p-648.aspx​

k2/d2/ ...........Oregon 21
21 huskey...................21
58j..............?? same/I don't think this was my saw
poulion 91.............91
37............?? Electric
I also have 1 battery/2,-120v saws and they have had their places in history over the years when I lived in town!
I love my free "pecker-pole" chicago-electric saw that fits my Ryobi 18V lithium batteries.

 

[Philbert]

The conversion charts can be helpful, but as noted, different manufacturers use different code, and may stamp them in different locations, or not at all! I prefer to go to each manufacturers' site (STIHL, Oregon, Carlton, TriLink, Archer, etc.).

I like my battery and electric saws:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/stihl-and-other-36v-cordless-chainsaws.177392/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/oregon-cs300-40v-cordless-chainsaw.286385/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/review-oregon-powernow-cordless-chainsaw.179262/

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/electric-chainsaws.285663/
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...corded-electric-chainsaw.268379/#post-5090392

Philbeert

 

[Fletch->]

I'm surprised about the good comment on the electric saws. I read all the links and i want a new saw. My first electric saw was a Homelite, late 70's/early 80's and used to rebuild an 1800's cape in Maine cutting 4x6's and 8x8's replacing the whole foundation sill and sub flooring timbers and used it to cut lots of discarded milled oak lobster trap parts from a local manufacture. As its 40 years old and I still occasionally use it, its old school to today's technology. I love my cordless power tools but my back would love a super light powerful corded "landing saw" and only use the gas for the woods.

>>>Fletch-> From on the side of a mountain top... up in the sticks in VT.....The cow's have shorter legs on one side then the other so the won't fall over!