Estimate for cost of tree removal?

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Tennessee doesn't qualify as "East Coast".

And there are high-ballers everywhere. That is why you should get 3 or more quotes. If you don't like any of them, call 'em back in 3 months and ask if they want to come down any from their previously high quote.

Here's the deal: different companies have different sales policies. Almost all will quote a higher price, planning on being negotiated downward. Some have lots of work, and don't need your tidbit. Others are bidding high, planning on catching only the desperate buyers. Others make a steady living off of regular customers that are unwilling to be taken by the high-ballers.
Let them know that you are not in a hurry, they can schedule the work when it suits them, but you only expect to pay $xxxx, and that includes <service list>.
east TN, im 15 minutes from north carolina, pretty dang east coast if you ask me

the "tail of the dragon" practically ends in my front yard
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Sure thing, Zin. That's a pretty limited vision of what the country consists of. For a fellow as well-traveled as yourself, I'd expect you to have a bigger vision for where Tennessee is, both geographically, culturally, and historically.

When was the last time you had to evacuate due to the hurricane warnings?
 
Sure thing, Zin. That's a pretty limited vision of what the country consists of. For a fellow as well-traveled as yourself, I'd expect you to have a bigger vision for where Tennessee is, both geographically, culturally, and historically.

When was the last time you had to evacuate due to the hurricane warnings?
Been 7 years since I lived in Florida and put of the 10 years I lived there, it was rare to be there for more than a few months at a time, so never had to evacuate as we were 1500+ miles away usually
 
I would ask local sawmills if they might want the trees. Perhaps they would remove them for you for free so that they could make lumber/beams/fence posts with the material. Cedar is not good firewood, there is very little heat value in it. It makes good kindling.
 
At 12.2 million BTU per cord, Atlantic White Cedar isn't just "not good", it is at the bottom of the page for for firewood heat value. Even less than cottonwood, and that's pretty low on the list.
https://www.wood-heating-solutions.com/wood-species-btu-values/
Of course, we don't really know what kind of tree is featured in this thread. "Cedar" is a bit vague, and it might be some entirely different kind of tree than white cedar.
 
I agree need more pictures of whole area. Are the trunks tied together at the base, or could they be dropped separately? The branches intertwined up above so they could not be dropped separately?

I see power lines going to the house so would need to come down on other side.
 
I agree need more pictures of whole area. Are the trunks tied together at the base, or could they be dropped separately? The branches intertwined up above so they could not be dropped separately?

I see power lines going to the house so would need to come down on other side.
The thread is 7 years old. The original poster probably had her trees dealt with years ago. Somehow, I accidentally retrieved this ancient thread a few days back, and people like yourself are still commenting.
 
There has been a lot of necro-thread lately.

Hmmm. Had to look that one up just to see what you were talking about.

Eh. There's been a few recently. I got caught by one myself, and started typing up an answer I had given two years previously. Then I started remembering the thread.
 
Chainbrake, that was a completely different thread about a red oak from 8 years ago.
Thank you, JollyLogger. It is either me, the mouse, or my feed from Arboriste that is corrupt. If I were on any meds, I'd be saying that it is time that I checked my meds. Since I am not on meds and will deny going senile till they zip me in a black vinyl eternal rest sleeping bag, I'm all for blaming the technology.

On second thought, I certainly remember the thread about the red oak - I've obviously confused the two threads.

I hope this isn't the start of a pattern. On the plans for the house that I'm building for my wife and me is a 100' zipline from the back deck down to the river. I don't want to be going senile before I get that zipline finished for one last trip - the one I take while they are calling for my transport to the old folks home. I'd rather zip into that river, crash over the waterfall that's a mile downstream, then float the 20 miles to the little cove where I could feed the crabs.
 
Probably around 3,500-$4,000, plus sales tax, to remove to stump level (4-8" from ground level), including hauling away of branches and logs. Possibly a bit less if it looks like a easier job (a bit hard to tell from just photos). Winter will be the cheapest time of the year (sometimes 20% cheaper), but you'll have to tolerate a few more lawn ruts from the equipment on the wet ground, unless they remove it when the ground is frozen, or use a crane. Get two to three quotes from companies.
Don't just take their word for it they have insurance, ask them to provide certificates of insurance when they give you the quote. Many will say they have insurance, but they don't have worker's comp. You don't want to be left with an injured worker attempting to sue you or your homeowner's insurance policy (even though such cases often resolve in favor of the homeowner, there's still all the hassle involved, and still the chance that you might be held liable for having an uninsured employee working on your property). Make sure they have at least 1 million of general liability insurance, commercial auto insurance, and a worker's compensation policy that covers all their employees. Call the insurance agent listed on the certificates of insurance to verify the policies are active, and that the general liability policy doesn't have a height-limitation (some tree companies try to save money with a lawn mowing insurance policy, which often doesn't cover tree work above a certain height, say 20').
Also, check their Google reviews on Google Maps. I'd suggest sticking with companies with a 4 star reputation or better. A reputable company should charge the same price for check or cash payment. If they take credit cards, a 3% or so processing fee is fairly common, which is about what they have to pay to have credit card payments processed. If they start offering "cash discounts", then you know they are probably cheating on their taxes, and taking short-cuts on a number of other areas of their business as well, and I'd recommend staying away from them. Make sure to get some type of contract in writing or email, so that way you are protected. Even if it just says the total price and roughly when the work will be done, along with both parties approval, that is a good start. That way they can't "forget" the price and raise it on you once the work is done.
 
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