Ethanol Free gas

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When I was younger and in better health I didn't see many issues at all with 10% corn because I ran my saws way more often but now my saws may sit 4-6 months at a time during the heat of Summer. I can get 10% corn for $2.55 and up non-ethanol is $3.49-3.69 but I'll pay the difference. My riding mowing is water cooled and fuel injected and had a $300 repair to it because of ethanol gas some years ago. We had a HF Predator 212cc engine that gets put on a 30' hay elevator once year to run ear corn into a corn crib we run non-ethanol in it and when we're done we shut the fuel off and run it dry. You can't get all the fuel out of the tank by flipping it upside down so we just leave it full and it starts on the second or third pull every year for the last 10 years. We remove the engine from the elevator every year and store it in an unheated insulated equipment shed. They recently opened a Sheetz truck stop within 2 miles of here and they have non-ethanol, I don't like their fuel pricing practices of jacking it up 30¢/gallon every time some one farts but the other truck stops appear to be keeping them inline with this one. Saves me from driving 10 miles to get non-ethanol.
I pay the difference also. On a small chainsaw it keeps them from having carb problems that the ethanol and water cause.
 
I know some of you won't like me saying this but I noticed you can store the non-ethanol gas for a long time without it going bad.
They say 6 months and starts degrading.

But it sets in my boat about 8 months and in my Gen for over a year now and they still start right up. I swear by it.

I do store them with a cap or 2 of K100 before stopping them.
 

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They say 6 months and starts degrading.

But it sets in my boat about 8 months and in my Gen for over a year now and they still start right up. I swear by it.

I do store them with a cap or 2 of K100 before stopping them.
Actually, I've had it before for over a year and it still worked. I've heard ethanol isn't good for over a month. I've had some of it for the old lawnmowers for longer than a month also.
 
Why are there so many arguments over this subject?

Stationary equipment. Road vehicles. Two totally different things. Do you shake your 2 cycle fuel before fueling (regardless of source fuel)?

Doesn't it really end up being what works for you? And in your experience. And in your risk tolerance for a machine that won't run when you need it?
 
I pay extra for ethanol free gas for all my small engine equipment. Never have any issues with carbs. A lot of my stuff sits all winter and then fires right up in the spring without issue.

Prior to that I would just use regular pump gas and while I would sometimes get lucky, sometimes I'd end up with gummed up carbs. Just easier to use ethanol free gas. If I used massive quantities maybe the price difference would be material, but with the amount I use throughout the summer it's well worth it.

The VP fuel in the can works well for older saws I don't run that often. They can sit for a while and they're fine. It's not cheap stuff, but you don't go through very much, so again it seems worth it to me anyway.
 
Not the best way to have the non-e gas, using the same pump and hose as the ethanol. The station I buy mine at uses a separate pump for the non-ethanol real gas. That way it doesn't get mixed.
I do not disagree with that but sadly with the economics of selling gas here the multi-grade pump is becoming the standard. As you can see the E-85 is separate but that is to keep dipsticks from whining about sticking it in their non E-85 vehicle.

About 10 years ago we had a BP station here that only sold gas. The had three separate pumps, green, silver, and gold. A lady went in with her diesel car and filled it at the green pump.

That did not end well.

BP is still a cluster fudge.

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