Experienced a violent kickback

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I have a buddy with a Husky 188 with a 28" bar handed down to him from his dad after he passed. And he straight up told me not to buy a chain brake for my 272 when I bought it used and broken. Of course I ignored him. But he is so hard headed when it comes to kickback. I dont know how to make it set in.
 
Ill show him. Hes always been blessed with good strength, even though he tall and skinny so he thinks he can take on the world. I've told him kickbacks get the strongest of strong guys quite often.
 
Ill show him. Hes always been blessed with good strength, even though he tall and skinny so he thinks he can take on the world. I've told him kickbacks get the strongest of strong guys quite often.

Good saw handling skills and strength certainly helps but not getting yourself in a situation where kickback occurs is the only safe bet. Chain brakes also only stop the chain turning but contrary to popular belief can't defeat physics and won't stop you wearing a non spinning chain and bar across the face :)
 
True but Id rather catch a non spinning chain and bar combo in the face then one at 7500rpm. And its the only other thing you can do for your safety shy of not being in the situation. But yes you are right.
 
True but Id rather catch a non spinning chain and bar combo in the face then one at 7500rpm.

Certainly agree there. My point was though that some people assume that because a saw is fitted with a chain brake kickback can't hurt them.
 
Certainly agree there. My point was though that some people assume that because a saw is fitted with a chain brake kickback can't hurt them.

Agreed. I've seen that allot.

And some people like him, think that hes to strong for a 88cc saw to kickback. I hope his lesson learned is not on the way to the hospital one day.
 
Converted

Ok, this thread worked for me. My old 024 had the brake handle and internals stripped off before I got it, and my plan to date for dealing with that was "to be extra careful."

The pics in this thread and the stories just made me realize how stupid that plan is.

I'll either get the safety equipment on that old saw or retire it.

Then I'll upgrade to serious PPE.

The quote from an earlier post will be my mantra when sawing: "Kickbacks aren't if, they're when."

So, thanks everyone.
 
These should do it...

.... to anybody offended by these but welcome to reality. These are actually some of the nicer images I've seen from upper torso/face kickbacks...

Thanks for the pics MCW.

I've had a few patients with cuts from chainsaws, but thankfully nothing that bad.

7
 
Some day I'll explain plunge cuts and how to buck without using wedges, after all, wedges are for falling.

You mentioned NOT using wedges when bucking. Has this anything to do with the possibility of changing the Tension & Compression of the existing log and creating a side tension where there may have not been one?

Is bucking a log that has Compression on the top and Tension on the bottom and placing the wedge into the cut being started from the top of the log, not as safe as it may appear? Is this wedge that is only 3" wide creating a pivot point or a Side Tension that could create a dangerous situation as the cut is continued?

:msp_unsure:
 
These should do it...






Apologies to anybody offended by these but welcome to reality. These are actually some of the nicer images I've seen from upper torso/face kickbacks...

Thanks for the graphics. You have likely made your most important contribution (among the many others) to this forum!
Interestingly, I read a story a few years back about a sawyer who lost his footing & fell NECK FIRST on the spinning chain, & LIVED!! His head was cut more than 50% off! He got an adrenalin surge of anger before realizing all that had just happened & picked up the saw & threw it. He managed to make his way to a neighbor who called an ambulance. The people in the ER couldn't believe their eyes when he arrived! They literally re-attached his head, & he made a full recovery!?! I think I'm glad there were no pics (not published, anyway) of him looking like the victim of a failed guillotining!
 
Had my "when" moment recently with a 272. Vines on the back side of the cut grabbed the tip. I hold my saw tight and thought i was strong enough. The saw hit me hard in the chest and bounced off 4ft before i even realized the chain brake saved me. Messed with my head for a while too. I definitely learned the hard way, and like the OP are a wiser man now for it.
 
You mentioned NOT using wedges when bucking. Has this anything to do with the possibility of changing the Tension & Compression of the existing log and creating a side tension where there may have not been one?

Is bucking a log that has Compression on the top and Tension on the bottom and placing the wedge into the cut being started from the top of the log, not as safe as it may appear? Is this wedge that is only 3" wide creating a pivot point or a Side Tension that could create a dangerous situation as the cut is continued?

:msp_unsure:

If you know what you are doing it is very rare to need wedges when bucking to avoid pinching your saw. There are a whole heap of different techniques involved and watching a true pro who knows what they are doing and knows how to read a log properly is awesome. Once you see their techniques you'll realise that there is a lot more to bucking than just hammering a wedge in a closing cut to avoid pinch and gunning the throttle.
Randy is simpy saying that if you know what you are doing you won't need wedges to avoid pinching your bar and getting your saw stuck.

P.S. I'm not that good at it either but I refuse to use a wedge when bucking and sometimes I get caught out because of it ;)
 
I am glad the OP was not hurt.

I am not a pro when it comes to chainsaws. I am not in the business but I do a lot of cutting for myself. A few things that I have learned and always follow. Most important is I always look at the saw tip and the kerf when I cut. I want the saw tip clear and I watch the kerf to see if it is closing or opening. Before I start I study the tree or log to see where tension or compression points may be and also where any spring limbs may be. How I cut depends on these points.

I have not had a kickback nor have ever tripped the brake. Two weeks ago it was 101.5 degrees outside. I donned my safety gear to cut a dying silver maple whose limbs had been knocked over by a wind storm. It was hot hot working. Thursday, I finally droped the tree. It was 96 but still used my safety gear.

I sure do learn a lot reading this forum. While I was aware of the linear kickback, I have not seen it explained a fully as in this thread. Something else to think about. Still learning. Keep safe while working.
 
Another believer. Good. I'm glad you weren't hurt.

There are some people who have never had a kickback and don't really believe it can happen. They're wrong.

Kickbacks aren't if. They're when.


Same thing in woodworking. It will happen. Everytime I see someone running a cheap home center table saw, I want to run away to avoid the impending doom. I will use a circular saw with a straight-edge guide instead, if I am ever in a spot where I see a cheap table saw in use. Mine is moderately expensive, but every time I am cutting sheet goods or rip cutting boards, I triple check my set up before even plugging the saw in - and I have one of the best aftermarket splitters available when I got the machine.
 
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