Explain this Tilliotson HS govenor to me

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Mark,

This governor is on a lot of Stihls--051, 075, 076, 045s?--I believe on some big Homelites--2100, 3100--and some big Dolmars--152, 153. Personally, I don't spend alot of time agonizing over the functioning of these valves. I've just punched out a piece of gasket with a hole punch, fit it into the hole, and reinstall the valve. Keep the carb a bit rich and you're good to go. Valves may be available as a new replacement.

Chris B.

Also works for the Husky Tilly HS gov. carbs.
Shep
 
I didn't read all the responses, so this may have been covered already. If you plug the ports under the governor, you can then tune it as any other saw. I used a piece of plastic pakaging cut into a disc. The thicker stuff that everything is wrapped in, like batteries, etc. I pulled the governor, dropped in the disc, reinstalled governor, and tuned. All was well. That was on a Lombard Super lightning.
 
I didn't read all the responses, so this may have been covered already. If you plug the ports under the governor, you can then tune it as any other saw. I used a piece of plastic pakaging cut into a disc. The thicker stuff that everything is wrapped in, like batteries, etc. I pulled the governor, dropped in the disc, reinstalled governor, and tuned. All was well. That was on a Lombard Super lightning.

You might want to ditch the plastic. I always use a piece of aluminum flashing or a pop can.
 
The carb. on my Homelite Waterbug pump has this type of governor.
No LS or HS adjuster. No throttle control. It just has a choke lever. That's it.
Start it and it runs wide open unless you choke it or shut it off.
 
I hope the HL carbs don't have this governor, I have several saws with the HL on them.


Yes some HL carbs had the same governor setup! Some Walbros as well.


You might want to ditch the plastic. I always use a piece of aluminum flashing or a pop can.

I agree, I would worry how the constant exposure to gasoline would react with certain types of plastic.
 
Yes some HL carbs had the same governor setup! Some Walbros as well.




I agree, I would worry how the constant exposure to gasoline would react with certain types of plastic.


That might explain why some of my older saws won't rev like I thought they should, even with rebuilt carbs...My old ones are, C5 Homelite, Homelite Buz, Homelite Zip, McCulloch 1-40 and 1-42. The 1-40 revs ok, not sure if the 1-42 even runs, haven't done much to it.
 
That might explain why some of my older saws won't rev like I thought they should, even with rebuilt carbs...My old ones are, C5 Homelite, Homelite Buz, Homelite Zip, McCulloch 1-40 and 1-42. The 1-40 revs ok, not sure if the 1-42 even runs, haven't done much to it.

C-5 shouldn't have a governor at all (in carb or external). Buz and Zip should have an external air vane governor.
 
C-5 shouldn't have a governor at all (in carb or external). Buz and Zip should have an external air vane governor.

They were kind of protective of these engines back in the day..I guess they didn't want these engines turning 13000 rpms like they do today. My C5 might just need a little more tuning, it hadn't been run in years until I got ahold of it. It still misses a little bit but starts and idles like(better than) a new saw.
 
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I'm sorry for bumping and old topic, as well! (saw somebody here do it earlier. But anyways...) The governor, is that this thing underneath the choke lever? Right here? (The "golden" thing in the middle of the picture)
WP_20160116_00_57_04_Pro.jpg
 
From the 2100 workshop manual.

"Speed governor

The purpose of the governor is to limit the engine
speed in order to protect vital parts like the crankshaft
and ignition system from excessive stresses.
We therefore advise most strongly against any interference
designed to render it inoperative. When the
saw IS run under no-load conditions, the engine
speed IS limited to 10,500 r/min as the governor
comes into operation.

The steel ball and spring in the governor are so devised
that vibrations in the carburettor at a certain
engine speed cause the steel ball to open the fuel
outlet. An excessively rich mixture IS then obtained
and the engine begins to four-stroke, the speed
drops and the vibrations decrease. The steel ball
then closes the outlet, the engine speed increase
and the process IS repeated.

Removal of speed governor

Remove the screw for the choke flap. Pull out the
flap approx. 7 mm and push out the choke shaft
approx 5 mm. Remove the speed governor with a
suitable screw driver."
That sounds like a waist of good fuel
 
Aha... so THAT is what it does... I think I read something about it. But, to get it to cut well, it seems like tuning the L, H and I screws is what's needed? My saw seems to cut well, the time I have cut with it. So... yeah...
 

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