Extreme lean + heavy on lean side + heart rot . . .

[rwoods]

Ron, big rebar in floor.

Now you are talking. It wouldn't even be noticed until the first of the year. Ron

 

[northmanlogging]

get some good strong bull rope (like 25 lb test) and run a series of guy lines through out the landing (cup hooks in the ceiling) make sure to put a choker around that stupid tree hugger that climbed to the top (the "angel" unless you use a star than just drape some tinsel off the guy lines and call it a comet...)

If the war dept. (the missus) wont let you set up some tail holds on the ceiling wrap some cinder blocks in last years paper and make some dead man tail holds out of those.

Could ya call in the high climber and have him top it a little maybe take some of the weight off of one side...

Legend has it the norskys hung the tree from the ceiling anyway,

 

[slowp]

View attachment 264955View attachment 264956

You'll need to fling the long butt out the door so maybe get a mini mini loader too.

 

[flushcut]

get some good strong bull rope (like 25 lb test) and run a series of guy lines through out the landing (cup hooks in the ceiling) make sure to put a choker around that stupid tree hugger that climbed to the top (the "angel" unless you use a star than just drape some tinsel off the guy lines and call it a comet...)

If the war dept. (the missus) wont let you set up some tail holds on the ceiling wrap some cinder blocks in last years paper and make some dead man tail holds out of those.

Could ya call in the high climber and have him top it a little maybe take some of the weight off of one side...

Legend has it the norskys hung the tree from the ceiling anyway,

This by far has to be the best advice I have ever read on AS.

 

[Gologit]

RC helicopter.

 

[knothole]

Back to the serious side of things..... I'm the schmuck who should not be in this thread but I saw it and here i am. I'll come right out and tell you all that I don't know #### from shineola about felling serious trees and doing tree work in general. I've cut alot of wood over my several years, firewood, and NEVER experienced what this thread is covering until last week. The last two years me and my neighbor have been working in a stand of dead "yellow" (might be honey locust?) locust that is de-barked and almost branchless except for the tops. We both use the notch and cut method depending where you want the tree to go. (hopefully) These trees have always been consistent with regard to excellent quality, solid wood throughout the cut. What I'm trying to say is they were about as "predictable" as I think a tree can be as far as going where you want it too. I found a section of these things with punky and rotten cores and the second one I cut cost me my bar and chain and almost a pair of shorts. I notched the fall too side, went around and started cutting her down. I got about 2/3rd's the way through and the tree went CRACK, twisted to my right and I swear jumped off the stump taking my saw with it. I was already hauling ass, I like three get away routes if I can... Long story short, the tree did fall the right way after this drama but I lost my bar and chain. I believe the CB cut would have helped here. Never knew it existed. This also serves as a note to the "rookies". Admit it or not. I'm a rookie and I've got all my digits. Tons of scars, busted bones etc., and I damn sure don't know everything. Oh, the saw was a craftsman so no great shakes with the loss but she did the job for 10+ years. I'm liking the husky way better. Thanks for reading.
Scott

 

[gapl1953]

I might a well speak up also. I have used the "T" variation of the coos bay cut because I still feel safer using it than the Beranek's cut, as far as my misjudging the side lean. I have also learned to bind the base of the log, when in doubt every little bit counts.

Greg

 

[slowp]

When you toss the slash off the landing, make sure Barbie is out of the way!

 

[rwoods]

Back to the serious side of things..... I'm the schmuck who should not be in this thread but I saw it and here i am. I'll come right out and tell you all that I don't know #### from shineola about felling serious trees and doing tree work in general. I've cut alot of wood over my several years, firewood, and NEVER experienced what this thread is covering until last week. The last two years me and my neighbor have been working in a stand of dead "yellow" (might be honey locust?) locust that is de-barked and almost branchless except for the tops. We both use the notch and cut method depending where you want the tree to go. (hopefully) These trees have always been consistent with regard to excellent quality, solid wood throughout the cut. What I'm trying to say is they were about as "predictable" as I think a tree can be as far as going where you want it too. I found a section of these things with punky and rotten cores and the second one I cut cost me my bar and chain and almost a pair of shorts. I notched the fall too side, went around and started cutting her down. I got about 2/3rd's the way through and the tree went CRACK, twisted to my right and I swear jumped off the stump taking my saw with it. I was already hauling ass, I like three get away routes if I can... Long story short, the tree did fall the right way after this drama but I lost my bar and chain. I believe the CB cut would have helped here. Never knew it existed. This also serves as a note to the "rookies". Admit it or not. I'm a rookie and I've got all my digits. Tons of scars, busted bones etc., and I damn sure don't know everything. Oh, the saw was a craftsman so no great shakes with the loss but she did the job for 10+ years. I'm liking the husky way better. Thanks for reading.
Scott

Scott, I am no pro but in case you are wondering the Leatherman cut doesn't exist and is just a joke; the south Florida tongue and groove is an actual cut promoted on YouTube but in my humble non-professional opinion it should be considered a joke; the bore cut can be a very useful cut but in my humble non-professional opinion it is a cut that is overly promoted and carries risks that aren't always explained; and the Coos Bay variations are two of many other cuts worth learning. You in the right spot to learn. I owe a lot to the folks that post in this forum. Ron

 

[Gologit]

Scott, I am no pro but in case you are wondering the Leatherman cut doesn't exist and is just a joke; the south Florida tongue and groove is an actual cut promoted on YouTube but in my humble non-professional opinion it should be considered a joke; the bore cut can be a very useful cut but in my humble non-professional opinion it is a cut that is overly promoted and carries risks that aren't always explained; and the Coos Bay variations are two of many other cuts worth learning. You in the right spot to learn. I owe a lot to the folks that post in this forum. Ron

You forgot to warn him about the slopping back cut.

 

[rwoods]

You forgot to warn him about the slopping back cut.

:taped: I used to cut that way on plate size trees. I never thought through the physics of that cut until I joined AS. I don't intentionally cut that way anymore. But the sloping backcut / farmer's cut is a feature of the Leatherman II. :msp_smile: Ron

 

[knothole]

Huh, and here i thought a Leatherman was a tool....lol. So, this cut, which I use the heck out of, is called a farmer's cut/ sloping (sloppy lol) back cut? I want to be sure I'm using the "correct" terminology as I'm not the hottest burning candle on the mantle. This type of cut has worked fine until I stumbled into these rotted one's. Also, the rot was on the business side of the cut and not visible in the notch cut and as such I found it the hard way. My eyes are wide open now.
As far as the bore cut, I'll stay away from that one. I don't ever see a need for a 435 being used in a bore cut scenario eh? I am definitely going to give the CB cut a go the next time. Most of these locust are no more than 14" in diameter and about 80-100' tall max. As I found out, they do take off when they break off! :msp_scared:
I appreciate the help and I'm sure glad I found this place.

 

[rwoods]

Huh, and here i thought a Leatherman was a tool....lol. So, this cut, which I use the heck out of, is called a farmer's cut/ sloping (sloppy lol) back cut? I want to be sure I'm using the "correct" terminology as I'm not the hottest burning candle on the mantle. This type of cut has worked fine until I stumbled into these rotted one's. Also, the rot was on the business side of the cut and not visible in the notch cut and as such I found it the hard way. My eyes are wide open now.
As far as the bore cut, I'll stay away from that one. I don't ever see a need for a 435 being used in a bore cut scenario eh? I am definitely going to give the CB cut a go the next time. Most of these locust are no more than 14" in diameter and about 80-100' tall max. As I found out, they do take off when they break off! :msp_scared:
I appreciate the help and I'm sure glad I found this place.

Terminology can be tricky around here. I assumed from your original post of "notch and cut" that your "notch" was the face cut and your "cut" was the back cut; I didn't see where you descibed a sloping backcut. Nevertheless, your back cut should be level not angled downward as is very common among us self-taught non-professionals. :msp_smile: Ron

 

[2dogs]

I have a nice fir with a heavy lean; a typical mountain tree with a crook in the stem. It is too expensive of a stick to risk a barber chair. Can’t do a bore cut, the south Florida tongue and groove or a Leatherman, and I am not sure if I should try a Coos Bay (Tee or Triangle) given the stem size. I've given up on the chainsaw forum as most of them don't even know how to sight in a saw so any help you could give me would be appreciated.

I know that someone will likely post that irritating reply that more information is needed so here is all I can tell you: First, despite my annual protests that I put them down not up, I once again got the assignment to put up the family Christmas tree. My best efforts notwithstanding, this year’s tree has already fallen over four times. It is now upright, tied to the wall but leaning precariously - totally unacceptable to the powers that be. I have tried to explain that the remedy is over my pay grade as the stem has a crook at the base, which is what you get when you buy a tree in the dark. I couldn’t make the case so it looks like I am going to have to fall that tree and cut out the crook. In addition to the safety considerations, I need to know the cut that will produce the smallest amount of sawdust and which will have exceptional directional control as the tree has to miss both the candles and the manger scene.

With much thanks and wishes for a Merry Christmas, Ron

I've stayed out of this discussion so far. But now you guys are working in my area of expertise, erecting Christmas trees. OK here we go. Listen and listen good.

Firstly get a non-drilled self sealing water bowl from the lot. You will need two 3' long 2x6 boards. One of these needs a 6" long piece of 2x6 screwed to bottom of each end. Using a 1 1/4" flat bit drill a hole a half inch deep in the 2x6 without the extra pieces screwed on. That is the bottom board. Next drill a half inch hole in the center of both boards and the center of the water bowl. Now drill a 7/16" hole ten inches into the butt of the tree. This hole has to be aligned perfectly! Next start a 10"x1/2" lag bolt through the water bowl and through the 2x6 with the extra boards. An inch deep is fine. Then drive two thirty penny galvanized spikes through the 2x6 and the water bowl into the butt. Remove the lag bolt and line up the remaining 2x6 with the countersunk hole down. Screw the lag bolt and washer down tight. On large trees a 1x1 1/2" board 16" long can be nailed at a 45 degree angle between the stand and the tree.

If all this is too cerebral for you loggers and lawn fairies then just crawl under the house with an impact wrench and drive a 12" long lag bolt up through the floor and into the butt of the tree.

 

[gapl1953]

I've stayed out of this discussion so far. But now you guys are working in my area of expertise, erecting Christmas trees. OK here we go. Listen and listen good.

Firstly get a non-drilled self sealing water bowl from the lot. You will need two 3' long 2x6 boards. One of these needs a 6" long piece of 2x6 screwed to bottom of each end. Using a 1 1/4" flat bit drill a hole a half inch deep in the 2x6 without the extra pieces screwed on. That is the bottom board. Next drill a half inch hole in the center of both boards and the center of the water bowl. Now drill a 7/16" hole ten inches into the butt of the tree. This hole has to be aligned perfectly! Next start a 10"x1/2" lag bolt through the water bowl and through the 2x6 with the extra boards. An inch deep is fine. Then drive two thirty penny galvanized spikes through the 2x6 and the water bowl into the butt. Remove the lag bolt and line up the remaining 2x6 with the countersunk hole down. Screw the lag bolt and washer down tight. On large trees a 1x1 1/2" board 16" long can be nailed at a 45 degree angle between the stand and the tree.

If all this is too cerebral for you loggers and lawn fairies then just crawl under the house with an impact wrench and drive a 12" long lag bolt up through the floor and into the butt of the tree.

Lag bolt thru the floor sounds like the way to go, a lot easier and faster. :good:

Greg

 

[arborealbuffoon]

I love it! Shouldn't the Christmas tree installation and rigging topic have its own thread? And, maybe a special room where the loggers can go beat up the lawn fairies..

But what do I know, anyhow. I AM technically trespassing here in Logger's world. Old wood wh$res are pretty much universally scorned, so I'm used to being picked on by pernicious pricks.

 

[RandyMac]

Ya lost me at" non-drilled self sealing water bowl", draw some pitchers.

 

[Gologit]

I love it! Shouldn't the Christmas tree installation and rigging topic have its own thread?

No.

 

[Gologit]

I've stayed out of this discussion so far. But now you guys are working in my area of expertise, erecting Christmas trees. OK here we go. Listen and listen good.



If all this is too cerebral for you loggers and lawn fairies then just crawl under the house with an impact wrench and drive a 12" long lag bolt up through the floor and into the butt of the tree.

But, but, but...that would require going outside. It's raining outside.


Edit...Maybe I could just cut a hole in the living room floor, jam the tree down into the hole until the first branches stabilized it. Yeah...I like that. If it's wobbly I could shim it up with old issues of Reader's Digest and small blue wedges.
I'll need a saw, though.

 

[2dogs]

But, but, but...that would require going outside. It's raining outside.


Edit...Maybe I could just cut a hole in the living room floor, jam the tree down into the hole until the first branches stabilized it. Yeah...I like that. If it's wobbly I could shim it up with old issues of Reader's Digest and small blue wedges.
I'll need a saw, though.

I believe the young woman from Warshinton must be consulted on the topic of Christmas tree wedge color. Maybe you could use your new suspenders as a twister.