Falling cuts
- Thread starter Trx250r180
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twochains
Addicted to ArboristSite
HA HA! a gurrl??? THH! See, the thing is we don't have monster trees like you all do out West. I have a couple long bars I could throw on if I wanted...however the percentage of trees I would actually use one on is so small that it really isn't worth it. Also, even with the new crew I cut for, they have a Hydra ax. I may start the day out falling, then hear that cutter start up, gather my gear, wait ten minutes and go to chasing that dang thing all over Hell's creation. I don't care who you are or where your from...ya won't go 8 or 9 hours straight limbing behind that dude with a long bar. The under brush and crap just won't let ya get around with a long bar, it's just not going to work out.
When I say "you" or "ya" I'm not directing towards you northman...just making a general statement. :hmm3grin2orange: (don't make me get all internutz tough on you
)
A year or so back another of our downunder friends stated this is the cut to make when pushing trees over with equipment. Otherwise he said you run the risk as described by sun64 of knocking the tree off the stump and it falling backwards on the equipment operator. Ron
HA HA! a gurrl??? THH! See, the thing is we don't have monster trees like you all do out West. I have a couple long bars I could throw on if I wanted...however the percentage of trees I would actually use one on is so small that it really isn't worth it. Also, even with the new crew I cut for, they have a Hydra ax. I may start the day out falling, then hear that cutter start up, gather my gear, wait ten minutes and go to chasing that dang thing all over Hell's creation. I don't care who you are or where your from...ya won't go 8 or 9 hours straight limbing behind that dude with a long bar. The under brush and crap just won't let ya get around with a long bar, it's just not going to work out.
When I say "you" or "ya" I'm not directing towards you northman...just making a general statement. :hmm3grin2orange: (don't make me get all internutz tough on you
no offense take'n or meant, I ass-u-me ya east coast guys don't walk the log to limb, if you did you would recognize the need for a long bar immediately, its difficult to bend over and get a limb when your already defying gravity, the extra length makes it possible...
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
Id rather not have my face close to a tree limbing with 20 inch bar,a 32 feels much safer if a limb pops back at you
hammerlogging
Addicted to ArboristSite
this is true in the east too. there's lots of times I'm glad I have the extra length. the balance, and how well the saw carries onthe shoulder alone, is enough to convince a fulltime faller to switch.
twochains
Addicted to ArboristSite
I would like to apologize for turning your thread in the wrong direction. This is turning into a possible argument, and that kinda sucks. I think there are valid points and thats what makes a discussion...one that I am sensing has probably been hashed out over and over again on here and I am too new to know it.
I think that the same limb you are worried about slapping you using a 20" bar will still slap you with a 32"...I mean, with the right amount of pressure, a limb isn't going to notice if you have 12 more inches on your bar? Right? Now come on, ya gotta give me that one.
Once again I'm sorry to have turned your face cut thread into a long bar short bar thing...I feel to blame for it.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
Im sold on the es light bar now,stiff like an es ,but a 32 feels about like a 25 does for nose weight
I would like to apologize for turning your thread in the wrong direction. This is turning into a possible argument, and that kinda sucks. I think there are valid points and thats what makes a discussion...one that I am sensing has probably been hashed out over and over again on here and I am too new to know it.
I think that the same limb you are worried about slapping you using a 20" bar will still slap you with a 32"...I mean, with the right amount of pressure, a limb isn't going to notice if you have 12 more inches on your bar? Right? Now come on, ya gotta give me that one.
Once again I'm sorry to have turned your face cut thread into a long bar short bar thing...I feel to blame for it.
A 32 makes all the difference in the world when working with bound and sprung wood compared to a 20. The 32 faces a bigger tree faster and bucks faster too. People are just unwelcomed to change.
HA HA! a gurrl??? THH! See, the thing is we don't have monster trees like you all do out West. I have a couple long bars I could throw on if I wanted...however the percentage of trees I would actually use one on is so small that it really isn't worth it. Also, even with the new crew I cut for, they have a Hydra ax. I may start the day out falling, then hear that cutter start up, gather my gear, wait ten minutes and go to chasing that dang thing all over Hell's creation. I don't care who you are or where your from...ya won't go 8 or 9 hours straight limbing behind that dude with a long bar. The under brush and crap just won't let ya get around with a long bar, it's just not going to work out.
When I say "you" or "ya" I'm not directing towards you northman...just making a general statement. :hmm3grin2orange: (don't make me get all internutz tough on you
Don't forget, brush can be cut with the chainsaw. I can now through tops quicker with a 32 than something shorter. If you carry it every day you will get use to it. Then you'll feel better cause you cut 75% more trees from one side instead of dancing around the stem front and back. To each his own though.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
I would like to apologize for turning your thread in the wrong direction. This is turning into a possible argument, and that kinda sucks. I think there are valid points and thats what makes a discussion...one that I am sensing has probably been hashed out over and over again on here and I am too new to know it.
I think that the same limb you are worried about slapping you using a 20" bar will still slap you with a 32"...I mean, with the right amount of pressure, a limb isn't going to notice if you have 12 more inches on your bar? Right? Now come on, ya gotta give me that one.
Once again I'm sorry to have turned your face cut thread into a long bar short bar thing...I feel to blame for it.
I dont consider this a derail, your equipment is important has a lot to do with cutting and safety is important too,what works for us on the left coast may not be needed in other regions
I wish I could make a level backcut!!!! Seems like I always run a little downhill and a little sloped down from me to the bar tip no matter how hard I look at it. Bad glasses maybe. 
I do stay a little high when I'm pulling a tree, seems like I get more lean in the tree before the hinge breaks
I do stay a little high when I'm pulling a tree, seems like I get more lean in the tree before the hinge breaks
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
I wish I could make a level backcut!!!! Seems like I always run a little downhill and a little sloped down from me to the bar tip no matter how hard I look at it. Bad glasses maybe.
have you tried cutting using the sights on the saw ? or just eyball the bar ?
Only sight I know about is the one perpendicular to the cut in the falling position, maybe I'm missing something but yes I eyeball the bar. I'm sure if I could stand back and look I would see it but a lot of my cutting is against a fence, have to bore a lot of them to start. My saws are 036 Pro's
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
the black line across top of your saw and follows onto starter cover and clutch cover is the sight on the 036 ,sometimes i use those to line my cuts up and get direction i want tree to fall ,kind of like a gun sight
4x4American
Got Sawdust?
yea it gets old, he makes us do a conventional notch, then bore cut in from the middle of the notch far as you can so that there's a "double hinge," then bore cut far as the little 24" bar will go parallel to the notch, about 2" back, then walk it back a bit on the heavy side first, stick a wedge in, then bore cut in from the other side, trying to line it up perfect with the first bore cut, then dance around the tree, and with a half wrap saw you can't cut with the bottom of the bar on half of the tree so you work against yourself half of the time which isn't that much fun. (most everything we cut is oak and it doesn't like being bore cutted most of the time, and good lord when we're sawin on hickory, you could have a razor sharp chain and it'll cut like its rocked)...anyways, you leave a little strip in back, pound in some wedges, and then finally, if your cuts line up, the almanacs right, the fish dont bite and the groundhog sees his shadow, you cut that last strip in the back and hope you got all the holding wood whilst dilly dallying around boring the tree from every which angle and it'll go over right where you figured it to go. Bossman thinks it's the safest way to cut trees, and that then it won't pull heart out from boring it so much. I think it's ridiculous, but I have to play by the rules.
I wish I could make a level backcut!!!! Seems like I always run a little downhill and a little sloped down from me to the bar tip no matter how hard I look at it. Bad glasses maybe.
Many of the guys I train do the same in the beginning. haven't found the perfect solution but I noticed putting one knee on the ground helps (instead of bending over). It is also much better to prevent back ache... Many employees have the same problem and I am open to any ideas to help solve it quickly. Worse is when they do a sloped face cut from one side of the tree and move to the other side of the tree to do the back cut, sloping the other way. They usually do end up "getting it" after a while.
You just described me!!! I usually do cut on the ground (frozen) and have the sore knees to prove it. Ran a saw for about 35 yrs but little felling until about 4 yrs ago, last tree I dropped I started 1" high on my side and hit the notch on the other (26" hickory), safe cut but wish I was better. Do the same darn thing when I block them on the ground, about 5 degree tilt in 2 directions. Just my view of the world I guess. Always wanted the chance to watch a good faller work, pretty much in awe of you guys. My stumps look better than most of the firewood cutters around here but I want mine to look like the pros!
Samlock
Addicted to ArboristSite
The well sized felling dogs make the leveling a lot easier.
4x4American
Got Sawdust?
I'm happy you put that thought in my head...good thing to chew on. my 461r has got the dandy felling dogs and i will for sure use them as a guide from here on out. At work we just got half wrap 372's and their dogs are junk for falling, in lots of situations they dont grab anything and I'm not a fan. I was showing my 461r to my buddys pops whos nickname is woodcutter, been an east coast logger all his life, anyways, I was shootin the bull with him saturday and he was telling me that I'd hate the felling dogs on my saw when I get working with them in the bush. I said that I like them better than most smaller dogs I've worked with. My favorite is that you can stick the saw pretty much anywhere and it'll stay, second favorite part is that the dogs actually grab most of the time.
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