Good pics Ted, Keep em coming.
wheelie.
bucked...
Good pics Ted, Keep em coming.
wheelie.
bucked...
Sweet, Would a regular heavy duty bottle jack work for doing that instead of those expensive tree jacks? I've seen a couple of times that would be nice to have. I figured you would have to put a piece of flat metal on top of the jack to keep the screw from digging in.One of the roadside hazards I did. Didn't feel like pounding wedges on a tree so close to the road, so I jacked it over. My first time doing the block face with a snipe.
The tree, "freshly dead", still had alot of moisture in the wood. Could still count the growth rings. It didn't lean too hard towards the road, used a plumb bob and estimated a little under a foot off vertical on the greatest amount of lean. It had a slight S curve in the tree, with the lower 2/3 of the tree towards the road and the upper 1/3 neutral, almost perfectly straight. Had some limb weight to work with as well.
I realized I made the jackseat too big, but I still had plenty of holding wood to work with. While it looks like I cut through the hinge, I didn't... Just cut a few lines with the saw to keep things as level and square as possible.
After it went over I said to one of the traffic control guys, "I still got a lot more to learn." He said, "well hell, you're miles ahead of me. I thought it was pretty cool, never seen it done that way."
This has been a fun experience so far. Enjoying it.
Excessive creativity can cause spectacular results
Sweet, Would a regular heavy duty bottle jack work for doing that instead of those expensive tree jacks? I've seen a couple of times that would be nice to have. I figured you would have to put a piece of flat metal on top of the jack to keep the screw from digging in.
Yeah i wouldn't do it much either, Had a few trees that were leaning the wrong direction. Wouldn't hurt nothing if they fell any way but wanted them to fall a certain way to load up the wood easier. May try it one day. The truck winch and wedges has always worked fine though.I use a little 12 ton bottle jack from time to time. They have their limits though. I either use a little 4"x4" 1/4" thick steel plate on top of the ram, or put a wedge in. The problem with bottle jacks is they can get spit out of the backcut cause the head of the ram (or the plate) doesn't pivot with the square portion of the backcut as the tree lifts.
I used it on this tree cause I knew I could do it, and didn't need too much lift. About 2" on the jack was all i needed. I just didn't feel like pounding wedges 8ft. from the road.
I've jacked two trees over in the last 3 years if that says anything. Wedges do most of the lifting around here.
One of the roadside hazards I did. Didn't feel like pounding wedges on a tree so close to the road, so I jacked it over. My first time doing the block face with a snipe.
The tree, "freshly dead", still had alot of moisture in the wood. Could still count the growth rings. It didn't lean too hard towards the road, used a plumb bob and estimated a little under a foot off vertical on the greatest amount of lean. It had a slight S curve in the tree, with the lower 2/3 of the tree towards the road and the upper 1/3 neutral, almost perfectly straight. Had some limb weight to work with as well.
I realized I made the jackseat too big, but I still had plenty of holding wood to work with. While it looks like I cut through the hinge, I didn't... Just cut a few lines with the saw to keep things as level and square as possible.
After it went over I said to one of the traffic control guys, "I still got a lot more to learn." He said, "well hell, you're miles ahead of me. I thought it was pretty cool, never seen it done that way."
This has been a fun experience so far. Enjoying it.
You and Ted, Oregon Cutter, Cody & Jacob, (We'll draw straws for Bullbuck cause you'll whoop me at arm wrastlin' lol) Bob and Randy can side rod out of the crummy with the lap top complaining about the misfits out there , and who ever I left out, I aplogize. Gary, you in Mang? I'll call you in the slick wood units, Mr. Full Skip Stihl head lol
Good looking work. Can someone tell me the why about the block faces?
Block out faces work good in situations where you want the holding wood to fold with the tree. That way when the hinge breaks, it pulls the tongue from the stump rather than the log. Block out faces also let you control the timing of getting the butt to the ground. It may be desirable to get the butt on the ground sooner if you're cutting something real brittle, or later if you're falling a tall piece over a long sweep.
Here is a poplar I cut today,
I'm proud of you Buddy!
You and Ted, Oregon Cutter, Cody & Jacob, (We'll draw straws for Bullbuck cause you'll whoop me at arm wrastlin' lol) Bob and Randy can side rod out of the crummy with the lap top complaining about the misfits out there , and who ever I left out, I aplogize. Gary, you in Mang? I'll call you in the slick wood units, Mr. Full Skip Stihl head lol
What side of The River will this A-Team be working on?
You and Ted, Oregon Cutter, Cody & Jacob, (We'll draw straws for Bullbuck cause you'll whoop me at arm wrastlin' lol) Bob and Randy can side rod out of the crummy with the lap top complaining about the misfits out there , and who ever I left out, I aplogize. Gary, you in Mang? I'll call you in the slick wood units, Mr. Full Skip Stihl head lol
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