What Axe do you recommend for splitting some oak ?

[telecasterfool]

I have 2 Council axes- handles excellent on both. Its mighty easy to overstrike and break a handle no matter how good it is or who makes it. Maybe the plastic/fiberglass handles are harder to break, but I've no interest in swinging one of them- I'll do the work on getting an accurate swing.

I have four different Council axes. I have no issues with the quality of the handles. I had one that loosened almost immediately, and I re-set it with an additional conical wedge. Wooden handles can be broken, that's just the way wooden handles are. I don't think people understand that anymore, maybe because handles like the Fiskars exist. Wooden handles can be improved for splitting, a little. I've found that wrapping paracord around the handle from the bottom of the head down about 3" and then treating the paracord with varnish (I use Watco) creates a great barrier to scuffs and chips. This is not an overstrike protector. If you seriously overstrike a big axe on a hardwood, you'll probably break the handle.

To the original poster: After you get some time on the Fiskars stuff, you may want to try a wood handles splitting axe, just to see if you want to evolve in that direction. Wooden handles feel better to a lot of people, and you can create an entire tool the way you like. I'm not advocating either style of tool. I own, use, and enjoy both. Good luck!

 

[buzz sawyer]

Unless it's gnarly, Oak should split pretty easily. Fiskars X27 and work from the outside-in. Also, try a single bit axe sometime - you may be surprised.

 

[moxiemaul]

I have four different Council axes. I have no issues with the quality of the handles. I had one that loosened almost immediately, and I re-set it with an additional conical wedge. Wooden handles can be broken, that's just the way wooden handles are. I don't think people understand that anymore, maybe because handles like the Fiskars exist. Wooden handles can be improved for splitting, a little. I've found that wrapping paracord around the handle from the bottom of the head down about 3" and then treating the paracord with varnish (I use Watco) creates a great barrier to scuffs and chips. This is not an overstrike protector. If you seriously overstrike a big axe on a hardwood, you'll probably break the handle.

I've done the same on 2 of my axes and my old sears maul. I've been experimenting a bit using a couple variations of nautical serving and some weaving of the paracord- a pleasant evening in the shop either way. Early on I tried a leather "overstrike" guard from etsy- not much good it tore quickly, small paracord is a lot more robust.

I tend to prefer a larger palm swell than Council uses- Beaver Tooth handles have a somewhat larger swell. My fave is a 28" from Brant Cochran- I got one of their handles for an ancient rusty dayton head my dad found in the field when I was a kid- really like their haft design unfortunately they don't sell longer ones.

A handle that lets you get away with a sloppy strike just isn't a big win IMHO. What happens when you get the axe stuck really well and have to bring in a 2nd tool to hopefully break the round enough to get the 1st one out; its really important to choose where the axe is going to hit.

 

[Mad Professor]

Have some oak rounds to hand split.
What axe do you recommend ?
Probably need a 27-29 inch length handle.

Will be using the wood for campfires.

Thank you

Council Tool. Made in NC USA

Council Tool Axes

 

[Mad Professor]

I have 2 Council axes- handles excellent on both. Its mighty easy to overstrike and break a handle no matter how good it is or who makes it. Maybe the plastic/fiberglass handles are harder to break, but I've no interest in swinging one of them- I'll do the work on getting an accurate swing.

+1 on Council.

I take a MTB tire, slice ~4" then duct tape near the head. Helps when I mis-swing. Axes and mauls.

 

[D Kitchen]

Have some oak rounds to hand split.
What axe do you recommend ?
Probably need a 27-29 inch length handle.

Will be using the wood for campfires.

Thank you

I've had the Fiskars X27 splitting axe for a few years now. I can't recommend it highly enough. I've been splitting firewood for years with everything from a sledge hammer and wedges to mauls and now finally to the Fiskars splitting axe. It's the best. I'm getting older and the maul just wears me out too fast. The splitting axe only weighs about 4 pounds as I recall and the handle is hollow yet strong. This means it's much easier to swing for a long amount of time without getting exhausted. One in a while I might use the maul for a swing or two if I get into a real nasty crotch piece or one with big knots. However 99% of the time I can use the splitting axe with no problems.

 

[SS396driver]