treeslayer2003
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stump pull is always better than butt pull
Falling pics 11/25/09
- Thread starter Burvol
- Start date
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HuskStihl
Chairin'em for the sound
I've said it before, but I'd love to see a TS video. Those hinges are always amazingly even and precise
Skeans
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Every time I've block faced yes unless I'm doing something wrong.
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treeslayer2003
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lol, you'll have to come do it bro. i thought i'd get my boy to do that for ya........he gone again.
well i guess i'm close to right then lol.
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
Every time I've seen or been around jacking in the northwest it's been humboldt faced with a stepped back cut personally. Most faces have been around a 1/3 to less then 1/2 with a jack put into the back cut before the face is cut.
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hammerlogging
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you can progress your back cut as you jack the tree into your favor, just like wedging, so by the time it commits to the fall there doesn't have to be any extra hinge.
KB- so your jack placement was your original face cut? That'll throw your plans off right there!
KB- so your jack placement was your original face cut? That'll throw your plans off right there!
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
Also a lot depends on the wood type as well, with Doug fir the hinge or holding wood is stronger.
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treeslayer2003
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before the face........hmm, that makes sense.
hammerlogging
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Some smaller wood but down along a small creek with a lean back over the creek.
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Clean moderate sized wood is not to be underrated. nice cutting
treeslayer2003
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is fir splitty? or, how would you procede in splitty wood?
Skeans
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Here's an example of a Jack placed before the face, the face was taken out then the back cut was slowly taken with pressure added well watching the top.
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treeslayer2003
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easier to handle too
Skeans
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It's only 4 foot which isn't bad to line up or cut.
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treeslayer2003
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how is the top plate attached to the jack? welding it on don't hurt the seals?
Here's an example of a Jack placed before the face, the face was taken out then the back cut was slowly taken with pressure added well watching the top.
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HuskStihl
Chairin'em for the sound
Got it, thx
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
The top plate and bottom plate are both 1" aluminum that have been drill for the bottom well the top is drill and counter sunk with an Allen to the foot. If they are too bad I'll get my Silvey tree savers out.
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Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
Another thing to remember with jacking is there's a lot of force so if you take too much of your hinge just like wedging you can loose a tree as well.
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here goes.. hang on tight..
First jacking is a little sketchy at best, while it does work good we are talking about making a hard leaner go the other way, or a very heavy tree go where you want it... Without good hold wood I wouldn't attempt it.
Any way that aside, its been said on here before but get the biggest damn jack you can, I currently have 2 20 ton bottle jacks, and there have been times I wasn't sure they where going to be enough. As for plates doesn't have to be anything fancy, mine are 3/8" plate with some tubing that slipped over the ram welded on to keep them in place and act as reinforcement (pics I know...) (I think I have enough to fab up a couple more if needed). Never had a need to plate the bottom side. Whatever ya do that top plate needs to have room to tilt with the tree, otherwise it puts a lot of side pressure on them jacks.
BACK THEM UP WITH WEDGES, don't skimp here folks, wedges are made to get skwreshed jacks can and will break.
On to methods...
Two schools of thought here back it first or face it first, for me it depends on how hard its leaning and how much room I'll have to stuff the jack and whatnot in the holes. For a hard leaner I'll back it first most of the way, leaving a little to cut if needed, then face it, if its not leaning real hard or just a heavy tree face it normal and make my back cut only big enough to make the jack seat, get the jack started then continue with cutting the back up.
As far as holding wood goes... Seems like 1/2 again or double the normal amount works pretty good, to a point... I have turned down several cutting jobs on cotton wood that would have required me to jack them away from buildings... Just can't count on that **** to hold ever, even in good conditions... Fir, Hemlock, Cedar, Spruce, Pine all have decent or superb hinge wood.
On to the face!
Not much really different here, maybe a little more of an open face to give it room to close up, have to remember that as high as the back gets before it falls, the face will close the same amount or so. Been a couple of bastard trees that I've had to go back and open the face a bit more to get the ****er to fall. So clean it out real good and try not to leave any dutch in it.
As far as which type of face you use, humboldt, saginaw, swanson, block, I don't think it really matters all that much as long as you leave the perty little step there on the non humboldt cuts to keep it from back slipping. If you absolutely have to use a jack on cotton wood or any other brittle wood, perhaps a block face may be the best option, followed with a Tramp type siswheel (like a regular sis but set back from the face, parallel with the grain and face... allowing the hold wood to really flex... works slick on cotton wood... Did about 20 of these on Saturday)
First jacking is a little sketchy at best, while it does work good we are talking about making a hard leaner go the other way, or a very heavy tree go where you want it... Without good hold wood I wouldn't attempt it.
Any way that aside, its been said on here before but get the biggest damn jack you can, I currently have 2 20 ton bottle jacks, and there have been times I wasn't sure they where going to be enough. As for plates doesn't have to be anything fancy, mine are 3/8" plate with some tubing that slipped over the ram welded on to keep them in place and act as reinforcement (pics I know...) (I think I have enough to fab up a couple more if needed). Never had a need to plate the bottom side. Whatever ya do that top plate needs to have room to tilt with the tree, otherwise it puts a lot of side pressure on them jacks.
BACK THEM UP WITH WEDGES, don't skimp here folks, wedges are made to get skwreshed jacks can and will break.
On to methods...
Two schools of thought here back it first or face it first, for me it depends on how hard its leaning and how much room I'll have to stuff the jack and whatnot in the holes. For a hard leaner I'll back it first most of the way, leaving a little to cut if needed, then face it, if its not leaning real hard or just a heavy tree face it normal and make my back cut only big enough to make the jack seat, get the jack started then continue with cutting the back up.
As far as holding wood goes... Seems like 1/2 again or double the normal amount works pretty good, to a point... I have turned down several cutting jobs on cotton wood that would have required me to jack them away from buildings... Just can't count on that **** to hold ever, even in good conditions... Fir, Hemlock, Cedar, Spruce, Pine all have decent or superb hinge wood.
On to the face!
Not much really different here, maybe a little more of an open face to give it room to close up, have to remember that as high as the back gets before it falls, the face will close the same amount or so. Been a couple of bastard trees that I've had to go back and open the face a bit more to get the ****er to fall. So clean it out real good and try not to leave any dutch in it.
As far as which type of face you use, humboldt, saginaw, swanson, block, I don't think it really matters all that much as long as you leave the perty little step there on the non humboldt cuts to keep it from back slipping. If you absolutely have to use a jack on cotton wood or any other brittle wood, perhaps a block face may be the best option, followed with a Tramp type siswheel (like a regular sis but set back from the face, parallel with the grain and face... allowing the hold wood to really flex... works slick on cotton wood... Did about 20 of these on Saturday)
I think Mrs P. posted this some time ago, its like an hour long but worth watching for all the trouble he has... remember the wedge...
And some more shameless self promotion, from when the jacks are fairly new, using my axe as a plate (which I just fixed like 2 months ago...) Don't use a good axe as a plate... really its not good for em...
And some more shameless self promotion, from when the jacks are fairly new, using my axe as a plate (which I just fixed like 2 months ago...) Don't use a good axe as a plate... really its not good for em...
By the way that hunk of slab missing on that log up the hill tried to kill me... pinned me to the ground and drug me up the hill about 10 feet...
