Falling pics 11/25/09

[Chep]

That pic is of our landing. We are use cut to length system. Forwarder piles that wood.
Triple hinge works
I try all the cuts. They all have there place. I don' use Dutchman much .
For splitting wood we use flitch savers. A plastic H that fits in a hammer. Ash and hickory are the worst. You can watch them pop in the piles

 

[woodfarmer]

Darn hang ups cost most of the day

 

[sw oh logger]

That type of crack is from the tree being pissed it got cut down. Some guys carry "s" shaped pieces to tap in the log when they see it starting to crap . For the life of me I can't remember what they're called. Those cracks don't go in far and on ash it's not a big deal in winter. On really high dollar logs its more viable to pound those "s" ties in to keep the crack from spreading. All species will do it. Some worse then others.

S-irons --used most of all in good walnut

That type of crack is from the tree being pissed it got cut down. Some guys carry "s" shaped pieces to tap in the log when they see it starting to crap . For the life of me I can't remember what they're called. Those cracks don't go in far and on ash it's not a big deal in winter. On really high dollar logs its more viable to pound those "s" ties in to keep the crack from spreading. All species will do it. Some worse then others.

S-irons--used most of all in good walnut or white oak. Veneer buyers use them and like when a seller uses them, sawmills hate them-they cn be hard to get out if you're not used to doing it.

 

[Skeans]

S-irons --used most of all in good walnut

S-irons--used most of all in good walnut or white oak. Veneer buyers use them and like when a seller uses them, sawmills hate them-they cn be hard to get out if you're not used to doing it.

Are you guys after the heart wood on all of your hardwoods? Always wondered that when it comes to hardwoods out here we can't run a spike drive wheel because of damage.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[Bwildered]

View attachment 630620 A lot of my Ash have cracks from the heart out,
Any ideas on how to prevent this.
From all the reading I've done, it's inherent in the type of wood
Bitzer???

The outside of the log is in tension, once the log is crosscut the tension releases & cracks from the heart start to appear.
Our eucalyptus has enormous outer tension , one in a dozen might not have much so that type of cracking might not happen , your picture is typical of the one in a dozen that doesn't have much.
Thanski

 

[bitzer]

S-irons --used most of all in good walnut

S-irons--used most of all in good walnut or white oak. Veneer buyers use them and like when a seller uses them, sawmills hate them-they cn be hard to get out if you're not used to doing it.

Walnut is pretty much all to the south of me. And the white oak seems to keep standing more then I like. I could see using them in the right wood. Just have never had to.

 

[bitzer]

Are you guys after the heart wood on all of your hardwoods? Always wondered that when it comes to hardwoods out here we can't run a spike drive wheel because of damage.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

The oaks, walnut, and cherry you're looking for all heartwood . Maple, ash, hickory, basically the rest your looking for no heartwood. They want the white wood in those.

 

[bitzer]

View attachment 630785 View attachment 630786 View attachment 630787 Darn hang ups cost most of the day

That's no hang up! Buck em and go. I thought about you yesterday as I stumped a 46" ash. Seeing as how you're cutting all ash I figured you'd like that one. No pictures tho. My phone quit doing that.

 

[bitzer]

That pic is of our landing. We are use cut to length system. Forwarder piles that wood.
Triple hinge works
I try all the cuts. They all have there place. I don' use Dutchman much .
For splitting wood we use flitch savers. A plastic H that fits in a hammer. Ash and hickory are the worst. You can watch them pop in the piles

Filtch savers. Thats it. Dutchmans will save you a tremendous amount of time and effort when you can apply them regularly.

 

[woodfarmer]

So this is before I pulled it down. It was a chore getting close enough to pull it sideways past the stump.
You can see there is not much clear space to fell these.
I need a climber to top them.

 

[northmanlogging]

View attachment 630994 View attachment 630996 View attachment 630997 So this is before I pulled it down. It was a chore getting close enough to pull it sideways past the stump.
You can see there is not much clear space to fell these.
I need a climber to top them.

Why top them?

Be easier to make a hole for them to fall into, granted I'm not there and don't know the layout, just topping is labor intensive and expensive. Where planning your work a little bit and making room for everything just makes life easier all the way around.

 

[woodfarmer]

Well it’s on my own property and I’d rather not cut a hole 20’ wide, that would make a lot of holes.
This EAB came on all of a sudden and the property hadn’t been logged for well over 30 years as there were no signs of existing stump when I bought it 18 years ago. So I didn’t get a chance to do any thinning.
We have three different Bush lots between my dad and I, so most of my time is spent cutting down dead standing trees.
No two trees lean in the same direction either and I’m not that proficient at swinging a tree 180*.

 

[Skeans]

Well it’s on my own property and I’d rather not cut a hole 20’ wide, that would make a lot of holes.
This EAB came on all of a sudden and the property hadn’t been logged for well over 30 years as there were no signs of existing stump when I bought it 18 years ago. So I didn’t get a chance to do any thinning.
We have three different Bush lots between my dad and I, so most of my time is spent cutting down dead standing trees.
No two trees lean in the same direction either and I’m not that proficient at swinging a tree 180*.

Might try a deep narrow face with a snipe on the stump to basically jump it off the stump getting the butt on the ground faster causing the top to get some momentum faster.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[Chep]

Woodfarmer. Unless you have a machine big enough to pull out a big hung up tree then I highly recommend cutting holes. Often they don' need to be huge. Just a couple key trees to give it a path to the ground. It usually turns out to be safer, more efficient and in forestry terms unless every single tree in your woods is future saw timber (which from yer pics looks like there plenty of culls) then making small openings is the best thing you can do. Weed out the culls with your felling. You don' have to pull them if it to much effort. But knock them down. It gives your better trees more room to grow. What you are doing looks to me like making your own job even harder. My 2 cents

 

[Skeans]

Woodfarmer. Unless you have a machine big enough to pull out a big hung up tree then I highly recommend cutting holes. Often they don' need to be huge. Just a couple key trees to give it a path to the ground. It usually turns out to be safer, more efficient and in forestry terms unless every single tree in your woods is future saw timber (which from yer pics looks like there plenty of culls) then making small openings is the best thing you can do. Weed out the culls with your felling. You don' have to pull them if it to much effort. But knock them down. It gives your better trees more room to grow. What you are doing looks to me like making your own job even harder. My 2 cents

In your guys hardwood thinnings how trees an acre are you guys normally shooting for?

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[Chep]

In your guys hardwood thinnings how trees an acre are you guys normally shooting for?

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

We don't really work even age hard wood stands like you would plantation softwood. But I believe between 60ish per acre is optimum

 

[Skeans]

We don't really work even age hard wood stands like you would plantation softwood. But I believe between 60ish per acre is optimum

Basically 22'x22' spacing or so if I'm guessing right, 100 trees an acre is 20x20 roughly sorry just trying to make it a little easier for new guys in the trade.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[woodfarmer]

After sleeping on it, and with all the advice from all you guys, I’m sure I will change my process.
Most of the trees in the area I’m cutting are Ash and going to die eventually. I should have looked at it differently from the start but sometimes it takes awhile. As I go,forward, I’ll start knocking down more of the trees in the path.thanks guys.

 

[bitzer]

After sleeping on it, and with all the advice from all you guys, I’m sure I will change my process.
Most of the trees in the area I’m cutting are Ash and going to die eventually. I should have looked at it differently from the start but sometimes it takes awhile. As I go,forward, I’ll start knocking down more of the trees in the path.thanks guys.

Only 5 percent of trees make it to maturity and opening up holes will help those other trees speed along. Always make sure you cut your elm and hickory out of the way. They won't break like other species and will give you all kinds of problems either the tree sliding back at you or horrible springpoles.

 

[bitzer]

In your guys hardwood thinnings how trees an acre are you guys normally shooting for?

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Depends on the type of woods. Maple/beech type youre shooting for 60-70 basal area when done cutting with 120-150 beforehand. In oak stands we shelterwood cut in the hopes to get it to regen. Oak needs lots of light. Soft maple/ash swamps get cut pretty hard usually. Size of timber all plays into it as well. Most foresters talk about roughly 4 sizes of trees in a stand. It's convincing the landowners to keep up with that at times is the problem.