Farmertec 066 problems.

[SnakenBacon]

Low compression is not cause by an air leak it is caused by something in the cylinder. An air leak will cause the mixture to run lean and should not really cause flooding. Did you put a new base gasket on when you replace the rings.
You need to pressurize and pull a vacuum on your case while you are using soap to find leaks.

While taking the clutch off to check the clutch seal, I looked into the top end through the plug hole. It's looking pretty scored, so I guess that's the culprit. I definitely don't mind that I ordered an OEM carb though. I think the reason the piston scored, (as well as the cylinder) is because one of the top end screws wasn't very tight at all. It took 0 effort to "break" it loose.

 

[SnakenBacon]

You may want to do a pressure test, buy a Mitivac 8500. Can you post pics of both sides of the old damaged piston?

 

[lone wolf]

Might be a heat sizure from a lean condition .Now you really need to pressure and vac test it.

 

[lone wolf]

http://www.madsens1.com/mnu_sawmaint.htm

 

[Automender]

How did your cylinder look with that much piston damage? Pic is not super clear but looks like one side of piston has the ring grooves gone?

 

[Captain Bruce]

I understand the appeal of these saws. They're cheap and kinda fun for the tinkerers out there, but if you want a reliable saw that is warranty honored by the dealer when something does go wrong, which is rarely for solid saws like the big names out there, don't get the Chinese crap. Each of these saws have terrible plastic, metals, bad welds and fit. They require a spare parts kit right off the bat. Sure, you can get great power from a knockoff of a big Stihl, but the hassle of broken parts, major shipping costs, failure not regularly warranted like the real thing, make them a terrible investment for the arborist, rancher, or the regular folks like me living in the woods needing reliability. You get what you pay for and many times it's far less.

I service saws here at home, out of my garage. 50 ++ a year. I'm fussy about how deep I'll dive, and the owners are told, when its done, it costs what it costs. Along comes one of these cheap knock-offs. Try as I might to say NO, it landed on the bench. Passed all the tests, just won't start anymore. The carb came off and apart. The small screen? Its made of plastic, which melted from the heat, cheap fuel,etc.....and literally was a worm clogging the carb. Cheese-ball quality kept this machine from running. Don't get me started on the oil pump, which is also plastic......

The owner had already spent 400 bucks, at 5 local shops. I didn't charge him a nickel, out of respect for any customer.

 

[Walter Glover]

Built a 660 kit saw from Farmertec and I have a great running saw. Built a 380 and a 372xp love both of them. Might be frustrating if you don’t know how to fix em!

 

[HoagiDog]

I understand the appeal of these saws. They're cheap and kinda fun for the tinkerers out there, but if you want a reliable saw that is warranty honored by the dealer when something does go wrong, which is rarely for solid saws like the big names out there, don't get the Chinese crap. Each of these saws have terrible plastic, metals, bad welds and fit. They require a spare parts kit right off the bat. Sure, you can get great power from a knockoff of a big Stihl, but the hassle of broken parts, major shipping costs, failure not regularly warranted like the real thing, make them a terrible investment for the arborist, rancher, or the regular folks like me living in the woods needing reliability. You get what you pay for and many times it

I understand the appeal of these saws. They're cheap and kinda fun for the tinkerers out there, but if you want a reliable saw that is warranty honored by the dealer when something does go wrong, which is rarely for solid saws like the big names out there, don't get the Chinese crap. Each of these saws have terrible plastic, metals, bad welds and fit. They require a spare parts kit right off the bat. Sure, you can get great power from a knockoff of a big Stihl, but the hassle of broken parts, major shipping costs, failure not regularly warranted like the real thing, make them a terrible investment for the arborist, rancher, or the regular folks like me living in the woods needing reliability. You get what you pay for and many times it's far less.

"Wholly sheesh!"-- oh, I mean, (hole--eek) I was so close to being enticed by a knock-off. But as I continued to read people saying this plastic part melted here, this bolt was loose, this housing part didn't quite mesh, the bar was curved, fluids seeping out ,,etc..., I figured, how could I come out ahead with getting a 200 dollar saw plus shipping and then have this item that would require aftermarket purchase parts as a compounding insult to the original tool. It just seems like such a rouse, unless there are tech guys out there that like that very odd sort of jigsaw puzzle of down time where your client is looking at you funny. I just went ahead with the 620p. And while expensive, at 245 additional, It is not 925, which is so bloody steep for the"S" or the "H".

 

[HoagiDog]

I service saws here at home, out of my garage. 50 ++ a year. I'm fussy about how deep I'll dive, and the owners are told, when its done, it costs what it costs. Along comes one of these cheap knock-offs. Try as I might to say NO, it landed on the bench. Passed all the tests, just won't start anymore. The carb came off and apart. The small screen? Its made of plastic, which melted from the heat, cheap fuel,etc.....and literally was a worm clogging the carb. Cheese-ball quality kept this machine from running. Don't get me started on the oil pump, which is also plastic......

The owner had already spent 400 bucks, at 5 local shops. I didn't charge him a nickel, out of respect for any customer.

So, do you mind me asking where your shop is out of?

 

[K-techcowboy]

Ssounds like a pretty good warranty actually cause most manufacturers call the piston a wear and tear item and they have no way of knowing how many hours or if the air filter was on correctly. I'd say that a simple carb adjustment is all your needed cause if the muffler was loose coming off the assembly line then the guy that runs the saws at the end had to richen it up to compensate for the loss of back pressure. Your throwing parts at it instead of diagnosing the cause. I'm a motorcycle technician and that's qhat

So I have a farmertec g660 that I bought a couple months ago. in the first month the muffler rattled apart, and the spot welds actually broke. There was a warranty on it, so I emailed the guy I bought it from and he sent me a new muffler. The reason it rattled off is because there was no gasket between the muffler and the head, so the screws were loose. Fast forward another month, and the saw just dies on me. I take the muffler off and the piston and rings are shot. I contacted the seller again and he sends me a new piston and rings. (****** warranty right?) Having never done this before and with no directions I put the new piston in. The saw ran good. When I went out to cut with it I cut a wedge in a tree, and then it died and wouldn't start before I could do my back cut. It keeps flooding. I can get it to start from cold, and rev it a little bit, then it just cuts out and dies. I just ordered a OEM carb. Any other ideas what the culprit could be?

I understand the appeal of these saws. They're cheap and kinda fun for the tinkerers out there, but if you want a reliable saw that is warranty honored by the dealer when something does go wrong, which is rarely for solid saws like the big names out there, don't get the Chinese crap. Each of these saws have terrible plastic, metals, bad welds and fit. They require a spare parts kit right off the bat. Sure, you can get great power from a knockoff of a big Stihl, but the hassle of broken parts, major shipping costs, failure not regularly warranted like the real thing, make them a terrible investment for the arborist, rancher, or the regular folks like me living in the woods needing reliability. You get what you pay for and many times it's far less.

I haven't heard any of the problems you speak of about the kit saws and I have bein running one of those dereal pro 62cc saws cause I thought it might be fun to just see what a $125 midsize Chinese saw could do with an echo 20in bar and sthil chain. Ive literally every day for 2 and a half months bein cutting wood for winter and I'll tell you this thing is solid, starts 2nd pull every time and has more power then should be ran through a 20in bar. I've tore it down after the first week using it just to make sure all is well and cause I'm a curious one and there were 0 issues and the fit and finish of everything was every bit as good as any 3 of my sthil saws. I have bein nothing but impressed with this Chinese saw. So I'm about to order a 660 clone kit myself with the big bore and a factory sthil piston pin and bearing put her together and give er hell for only $200 why the hell not.

 

[BrettS]

You failed miserably the moment you opted out of a decent chainsaw, and chose cheap chinesium.....wheres your nearest dumpster.......

Not everybody has the cash to splash like you do for a name brand saw.

 

[Cliff R]

I've been working on small power equipment over 40 years with 20 of it full time. My rules here in the shop are simple......We do NOT work on junk. The best sound any of those "clone" Chinesium saws make is when you "tink" them off the dumpster outside the shop. I don't work on them because they can't be repaired, I refuse to touch them because once you charge a customer to fix one you will be "married" to them. Every single time one of those POS acts up at all it will be right back on your workbench.

If you stick to working on top quality equipment and using OEM parts in them you'll find yourself making more money and sleeping better at night.....FWIW......Cliff

 

[SnakenBacon]

How did your cylinder look with that much piston damage? Pic is not super clear but looks like one side of piston has the ring grooves gone?

No it's just that the rings are seized into the groove s

 

[SnakenBacon]

Ssounds like a pretty good warranty actually cause most manufacturers call the piston a wear and tear item and they have no way of knowing how many hours or if the air filter was on correctly. I'd say that a simple carb adjustment is all your needed cause if the muffler was loose coming off the assembly line then the guy that runs the saws at the end had to richen it up to compensate for the loss of back pressure. Your throwing parts at it instead of diagnosing the cause. I'm a motorcycle technician and that's qhat



I haven't heard any of the problems you speak of about the kit saws and I have bein running one of those dereal pro 62cc saws cause I thought it might be fun to just see what a $125 midsize Chinese saw could do with an echo 20in bar and sthil chain. Ive literally every day for 2 and a half months bein cutting wood for winter and I'll tell you this thing is solid, starts 2nd pull every time and has more power then should be ran through a 20in bar. I've tore it down after the first week using it just to make sure all is well and cause I'm a curious one and there were 0 issues and the fit and finish of everything was every bit as good as any 3 of my sthil saws. I have bein nothing but impressed with this Chinese saw. So I'm about to order a 660 clone kit myself with the big bore and a factory sthil piston pin and bearing put her together and give er hell for only $200 why the hell not.

I mean every vehicle I own his car operated so I know how to adjust carburetors decently. I know that I had to replace the piston and rings because they were shot like absolutely shot. Right in the beginning of the shred somebody said I probably f*** the top end and I'm thinking that's actually the issue. I've actually got quite a few songs that I get from people here and there for free are 20 bucks or so and you know it's usually just a car to fix them if it was just that I would have had it running good by now. I will say that in the short time that I've had this saw, I've made a pretty decent amount of money with it. If all I have to do is throw another $30 top end on it it's still worth the money to me. The only new thing I've bought for is I bought an oem carburetor that's still in the mail and I don't regret doing that even if the carb isnt messed up. The seller sent me a piston, rings, the new muffler, etc. Free. I'll just throw another top end on it, and save the money from the next job or two and buy a Stihl Ms 661

Jesus Christ voice to text. I'll fix this post when I'm not driving

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I mean every vehicle I own his car operated so I know how to adjust carburetors decently. I know that I had to replace the piston and rings because they were shot like absolutely shot. Right in the beginning of the shred somebody said I probably f*** the top end and I'm thinking that's actually the issue. I've actually got quite a few songs that I get from people here and there for free are 20 bucks or so and you know it's usually just a car to fix them if it was just that I would have had it running good by now. I will say that in the short time that I've had this saw, I've made a pretty decent amount of money with it. If all I have to do is throw another $30 top end on it it's still worth the money to me. The only new thing I've bought for is I bought an oem carburetor that's still in the mail and I don't regret doing that even if the carb isnt messed up. The seller sent me a piston, rings, the new muffler, etc. Free. I'll just throw another top end on it, and save the money from the next job or two and buy a Stihl Ms 661

Jesus Christ voice to text. I'll fix this post when I'm not driving

2 strokes carb tuning is different to a 4 stroke, that saw would have told you it wasn’t happy before it stopped running, but you didn’t catch it.

If you knew how to adjust a 2 stroke O p e carb decently it means you’d know what to listen for with a lean saw, but you didn’t. That’s not an attack on you / your character and is not meant in any condescending way, it’s just the reality of the situation. We all have a lot to learn, but being open to it is the key.

If you want to do it properly, pressure and Vac test it and find out if there are any leaks. If so, fix them. If not consider the tune of the saw. I’d suggest trying to upload a clip of it running at idle, going to WOT then returning back to idle here for advice if you are going to put a new piston in.

Chinese saws & parts are very hit and miss. Some love them some hate them. Regardless it is what you have and there are a lot of people willing to help on the forum.

 

[birddogtg]

I hope any American that buys this China **** has a nightmare.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Strange but the only clones I have not had nagging issues with were the 660 ones?
As others have stated tuning a 2 stroke carb is different and is not like a traditional carburetor in that your controlling the amount of oil introduced in the system as well.
A cheap little tachometer from Amazon might help with your tuning skills .

 

[cookies]

put caber or stihl rings in it when you rebuild the top end, request the 066 service manual if just for the carb adjustment procedure. Aftermarket pistons and cylinders will not run and "4 stroke" at the rpms a oem cylinder will, aftermarket pistons/cylinders will often be a thousand rpm or lower at wide open throttle when adjusted properly compared to oem..the only exception seems to be meteor.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Definitely second the caber rings.

 

[Automender]

put caber or stihl rings in it when you rebuild the top end, request the 066 service manual if just for the carb adjustment procedure. Aftermarket pistons and cylinders will not run and "4 stroke" at the rpms a oem cylinder will, aftermarket pistons/cylinders will often be a thousand rpm or lower at wide open throttle when adjusted properly compared to oem..the only exception seems to be meteor.

Just curiosity, why does the aftermarket do not 4 stroke at the same rpm as a OEM? I am new to these saws, just replaced rings on a k970 with Caber rings and starting on a TS420 chopsaw that I am using an aftermarket upper. Ts420 is a basket case and just trying to learn on it.