Farmertec 066 problems.

Rugged made
Wesspur
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they are not made to the same specifics/quality/quality control/ port timing. best advice it tear it down to the crank and build it with all new gaskets/seals/hoses/bearings esp since those things eat dust
 
Automender said:
Just curiosity, why does the aftermarket do not 4 stroke at the same rpm as a OEM? I am new to these saws, just replaced rings on a k970 with Caber rings and starting on a TS420 chopsaw that I am using an aftermarket upper. Ts420 is a basket case and just trying to learn on it.
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Rpm’s and power in a 2 stroke are determined by many things. Squish clearance, port size, port area, port shape, port height, port direction…..
Oem cylinders are very consistent for the most part. Aftermarket cylinders lack in nearly every one of these areas
 
SnakenBacon said:
I mean every vehicle I own his car operated so I know how to adjust carburetors decently. I know that I had to replace the piston and rings because they were shot like absolutely shot. Right in the beginning of the shred somebody said I probably f*** the top end and I'm thinking that's actually the issue. I've actually got quite a few songs that I get from people here and there for free are 20 bucks or so and you know it's usually just a car to fix them if it was just that I would have had it running good by now. I will say that in the short time that I've had this saw, I've made a pretty decent amount of money with it. If all I have to do is throw another $30 top end on it it's still worth the money to me. The only new thing I've bought for is I bought an oem carburetor that's still in the mail and I don't regret doing that even if the carb isnt messed up. The seller sent me a piston, rings, the new muffler, etc. Free. I'll just throw another top end on it, and save the money from the next job or two and buy a Stihl Ms 661

Jesus Christ voice to text. I'll fix this post when I'm not driving
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Lol I get yah. Sounds like a good plan. Man I'd love to pick up some free or cheap saws. I love working on anything with an engine and have only more recently really got into the chainsaw game. My best deal so far is an older ms180c basket case and a 028 av for 50 bucks. I put the 180 back together and it runs awesome and the 028 needed a coil.
 
cookies said:
they are not made to the same specifics/quality/quality control/ port timing. best advice it tear it down to the crank and build it with all new gaskets/seals/hoses/bearings esp since those things eat dust
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Thanks. I am trying a Cross Performance (China) top end but at least it has a set of Caber rings. Bought some diamond files and burrs to chamfer the ports. $50 for the saw and and $100 in other parts to start so it is a cheap learning experience. At age 62 I finally started to understand the workings of 2 stroke engines. Rebuilt the carb in a K970 chopsaw and learned about those little rubber check valves that can't survive compressed air and poking. Had to cut one out of a similar carb and press it into my carb.
 
measure fron the cylinder head deck to the squish band at the top of the cylinder in 6 spots, measure squish and try to get it decked square with the squish band then worry about port timing.
 
cookies said:
measure fron the cylinder head deck to the squish band at the top of the cylinder in 6 spots, measure squish and try to get it decked square with the squish band then worry about port timing.
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Thanks Not sure I can do too much about evening out the measurement but can add or subtract base gasket thickness if the smallest measurement is too small. I have a metal lathe but not sure if I can make a jig to hold the cylinder. I know to use solder to measure the squish but not sure if I use the old gasket during measurements or new one. Can gaskets be reused and just use Motoseal to ensure its air tight. I don't want to highjack this thread but I figure the OP should be measuring squish when he installs the new piston on the Farmertec 066.
I am not going to do any porting just chamfering the ports so they don't catch a ring.
 
Automender said:
Thanks Not sure I can do too much about evening out the measurement but can add or subtract base gasket thickness if the smallest measurement is too small. I have a metal lathe but not sure if I can make a jig to hold the cylinder. I know to use solder to measure the squish but not sure if I use the old gasket during measurements or new one. Can gaskets be reused and just use Motoseal to ensure its air tight. I don't want to highjack this thread but I figure the OP should be measuring squish when he installs the new piston on the Farmertec 066.
I am not going to do any porting just chamfering the ports so they don't catch a ring.
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If squish clearance requires a base gasket, I’d coat both sides of it before using if it’s the metal one. Re-using the old one is fine
 
SnakenBacon said:
So I have a farmertec g660 that I bought a couple months ago. in the first month the muffler rattled apart, and the spot welds actually broke. There was a warranty on it, so I emailed the guy I bought it from and he sent me a new muffler. The reason it rattled off is because there was no gasket between the muffler and the head, so the screws were loose. Fast forward another month, and the saw just dies on me. I take the muffler off and the piston and rings are shot. I contacted the seller again and he sends me a new piston and rings. (****** warranty right?) Having never done this before and with no directions I put the new piston in. The saw ran good. When I went out to cut with it I cut a wedge in a tree, and then it died and wouldn't start before I could do my back cut. It keeps flooding. I can get it to start from cold, and rev it a little bit, then it just cuts out and dies. I just ordered a OEM carb. Any other ideas what the culprit could be?
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You will burn through spark plugs if your not running GOOD gas. Change your plug out that would be the first thing I do.
 
K-techcowboy said:
Lol I get yah. Sounds like a good plan. Man I'd love to pick up some free or cheap saws. I love working on anything with an engine and have only more recently really got into the chainsaw game. My best deal so far is an older ms180c basket case and a 028 av for 50 bucks. I put the 180 back together and it runs awesome and the 028 needed a coil.
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my best deal was an 028 av super for $25, that needed a muffler and a clutch cover. I bought a parts one for $50, sold the both of them for $300. I'm working on an 009L, that I plan on trying to trade for a decent top handle saw. When I climb, all I have is an old ass mighty Mac 6 auto. Hoping to get a Stihl 193t or something similar. The 009L runs great, but doesn't have a chain brake anymore.
 
SnakenBacon said:
So I have a farmertec g660 that I bought a couple months ago. in the first month the muffler rattled apart, and the spot welds actually broke. There was a warranty on it, so I emailed the guy I bought it from and he sent me a new muffler. The reason it rattled off is because there was no gasket between the muffler and the head, so the screws were loose. Fast forward another month, and the saw just dies on me. I take the muffler off and the piston and rings are shot. I contacted the seller again and he sends me a new piston and rings. (****** warranty right?) Having never done this before and with no directions I put the new piston in. The saw ran good. When I went out to cut with it I cut a wedge in a tree, and then it died and wouldn't start before I could do my back cut. It keeps flooding. I can get it to start from cold, and rev it a little bit, then it just cuts out and dies. I just ordered a OEM carb. Any other ideas what the culprit could be?
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You can find good used saw that can be worked on locally. I bought a China saw and it ran real rich under load two local mechanics said never heard of the saw wont work on it so I sent it back free returns not dealing with it never again
 
cookies said:
put caber or stihl rings in it when you rebuild the top end, request the 066 service manual if just for the carb adjustment procedure. Aftermarket pistons and cylinders will not run and "4 stroke" at the rpms a oem cylinder will, aftermarket pistons/cylinders will often be a thousand rpm or lower at wide open throttle when adjusted properly compared to oem..the only exception seems to be meteor.
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I purchased one of the farmertec 066 about four years ago with a big bore kit. Used sthil bearings , crank seals and hyway gasket kit, big bore kit was ok but switched to the standard farmertec cylinder piston and rings and tuned in the cut on a oak tree, four strokes slightly out of cut but cleans up nice under load , my sthil tac says I’m at about 14,000 rpms , have cut about 15 cords of wood like this and still has a lot of compression, purchased a meteor kit couple years ago because I thought it wasn’t going to run long like it was but still going strong and I’m hard on it , I run Kawasaki two stroke motorcycle oil at 40:1
 
Adam shehan said:
I purchased one of the farmertec 066 about four years ago with a big bore kit. Used sthil bearings , crank seals and hyway gasket kit, big bore kit was ok but switched to the standard farmertec cylinder piston and rings and tuned in the cut on a oak tree, four strokes slightly out of cut but cleans up nice under load , my sthil tac says I’m at about 14,000 rpms , have cut about 15 cords of wood like this and still has a lot of compression, purchased a meteor kit couple years ago because I thought it wasn’t going to run long like it was but still going strong and I’m hard on it , I run Kawasaki two stroke motorcycle oil at 40:1
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Has that kawasaki 2 stroke oil been good for you? My buddy runs motorcycle oil and hasn't had any problems.
 

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