TheBigGiantPowerHead
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks for the responses and the pics. Nice to see an up close of the chain brake assembly.
I'm running two BB jugs on my mill saws. They both have almost an entire 36" chain sharpened through them. Haven't had one single issue with either (besides recoil assemblies blowing up about a year ago). Like stated above, you "need" to use the base gasket to minimize the Freeport. With the gaskets installed, I can just make out the bottom of the skirt at top dead center. As far as the parts that have "issues" and "maybe should" be replaced, that is up to you. As you read through the thread, you will see A LOT OF INFO. There really isn't any "right or wrong", except to say that the decomp needs to be replaced with a plug, OEM or Husky, the chain adjuster "needs" to be shimmed no matter wether you use the kit screw or OEM, I "feel" you NEED OEM bar studs, kit carb either works fine or doesn't tune (replace with Walbro if it is a problem). Other than that, the rest is up to you. I run Caber rings, OEM decomp, OEM chain adjuster shimmed, OEM bar studs, Walbro wj76 carb on one and kit carb on another, basic woods port, 1184 on the sealing surfaces, rip out the seals and install new after the cases are pressed together and have 4 recoil assemblies on hand, but haven't blown one in 8 months and run the HO oil pump on both.
Yup.... Just get the right ID and the thickness of the tube shouldn't be an issue. I got some right at my local hardware store...Please remind me again on the shim for the tensioner shaft? I seem to recall it's just a piece of brass tubing of the correct ID/OD and cut to (short) length - is that right??? That's what the pictures above seemed to show too.
this is a link to it on ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/K-S-014X3-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
Congrats Rich. Funny you ask, because I have been thinking that I'll do exactly what you asked as part of a "every winter" service. Seems like the least I can do and keep them fresh for the spring. I'm not a big fan of "unsealing" well sealed ****, but what the hell. Mine are running so well, that I'm not screwing with anything for now, but it seemed like a solid winter plan.So I just built one of the 660 kit and it runs fantastic ! I received all the parts which looked good also (I had to do some file work on the cylinder intake port due to some flash ) and were packaged nicely. I did install some stock stihl parts (normal things like piston clips, wrist pin bearing, gaskets and seals, ngk plug) and AM parts like the HD oiler from Ireland and the Tillotson HS-320a carburetor . I also grabbed a 3/4 wrap from farmer Tec. I have run about 4 tanks of 42:1 92 octane fuel threw it without a hic-up with a 25in stihl bar. but after reading all 106 pages in this thread (that only took me 4 days to get threw in my free time thanks all LOL)I'm wondering if I should order up stock impulse , fuel line and intake boot ? I love building this kit so much I sold my 026 to finance building the 361 kit (the 026 was given to me by a friend 10 years ago and was getting tired). what say you guys ? …… thank you for reading this !!!
Don’t forget to put these 2 bushing on before the handle or you’ll have to pull it back off to install.
I’ve got 2 saws going together so if you need a pic of something let me know.
Would you mind sharing where you found that carb for $40. I can't seem to find one that cheap.Well thanks ! I will say that adding that new carb to the saw made it wake up quite a lot ! good $40 spent there
Would you mind sharing where you found that carb for $40. I can't seem to find one that cheap.
Here's one for $50:
https://mittysupply.com/product/hs-320a-tillotson-carburetor-for-stihl-066-ms660/
and one for $52 delivered:
https://www.ebay.com/p/STIHL-066-Ms650-Ms660-OEM-Tillotson-Carburetor-Hs-320a/695483524
Enter your email address to join: