FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

Wesspur
Rugged made
Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Besides a better quality handle (I did not seem to locate on HLSupply website, any ideas?) I was attempting to list what OEM Stihl parts I should/wanted to order for this build while at my Stihl dealer this Weds instead of using the Farmertec (besides a complete OEM 660 that is :laugh:)

OEM Stihl:
Full gasket set
Bearings
Oil seals
Fuel line
Impulse hose
Intake manifold
H/O Oiler
Brake spring
DeComp
Bosch plug
Fuel/Oil cap O-Rings

Should I add???

Crank (jury still out?)
Flywheel (casting ok?)
Different A/M piston
Caber Rings (OEM)
Air/Fuel filters

Feel free to add your input if I may be missing anything or other suggestions :)
 
One thing i would recommend to anyone using these ultra cheap topend kits is to use the supplied rings. Alot of times the cheap rings are a better match to the poor quality plating in the jug. You have the best chance of the topend surviving with the cheap rings they come with. I know that goes against our normal thinking but rings must match bore material. Example if you use rings for plated bore on a iron bore bad things will happen real quick. I have seen caber f cast rings just scrape the plating right off these econo kits but the next kit live just fine on the econo ones of the same brand and vendor. So personally use supplied rings unless its going in a known good oem quality bore. I personally feel like hyway rings are a dang good quality ring that is dangerously close to oem quality. I see them as better then econo rings more similar to oem in terms or wear, tension, and easy breakin. I wont use f cast in anything way to hard to breakin and i feel like it could wear the bore faster. Standard caber is dang good not too hard but extra tension is present. The econo rings are generally lower tension just less yhan oem. Wear somewhst quicker. Likely nonevof us would wear out in our lifetime. And somewhat prone to breaking.
 
smokey7 said:
One thing i would recommend to anyone using these ultra cheap topend kits is to use the supplied rings. Alot of times the cheap rings are a better match to the poor quality plating in the jug. You have the best chance of the topend surviving with the cheap rings they come with. I know that goes against our normal thinking but rings must match bore material. Example if you use rings for plated bore on a iron bore bad things will happen real quick. I have seen caber f cast rings just scrape the plating right off these econo kits but the next kit live just fine on the econo ones of the same brand and vendor. So personally use supplied rings unless its going in a known good oem quality bore. I personally feel like hyway rings are a dang good quality ring that is dangerously close to oem quality. I see them as better then econo rings more similar to oem in terms or wear, tension, and easy breakin. I wont use f cast in anything way to hard to breakin and i feel like it could wear the bore faster. Standard caber is dang good not too hard but extra tension is present. The econo rings are generally lower tension just less yhan oem. Wear somewhst quicker. Likely nonevof us would wear out in our lifetime. And somewhat prone to breaking.
Click to expand...
Well actually I was planning on using everything in the kit. Bad idea?
 
After inspection i dont see why not. I still dont trust their wrist pin bearings. But the big end we have no control over with very few failures. So i say run the pin bearing for say 10 tanks and check it. Really you can test some of its health without disassembly if you had a indicator that fit thru the plug hole to see how many degrees are at tdc and bdc compared to the same numbers at assembly. If that number changed alot it would prompt you to inspect further. It could be the lower rod bearing or a combo of both.
 
smokey7 said:
After inspection i dont see why not. I still dont trust their wrist pin bearings. But the big end we have no control over with very few failures. So i say run the pin bearing for say 10 tanks and check it. Really you can test some of its health without disassembly if you had a indicator that fit thru the plug hole to see how many degrees are at tdc and bdc compared to the same numbers at assembly. If that number changed alot it would prompt you to inspect further. It could be the lower rod bearing or a combo of both.
Click to expand...
I haven't installed the crank yet, but I did test first the piston and pin and bearing and it looks to me like the piston skirts are oming awfully close to the counter weights, it's hard to tell rotating it by hand but they look REALLY close.
 
ammoaddict said:
I haven't installed the crank yet, but I did test first the piston and pin and bearing and it looks to me like the piston skirts are oming awfully close to the counter weights, it's hard to tell rotating it by hand but they look REALLY close.
Click to expand...
The skirt has been an issue from time to time.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com
 
ammoaddict said:
Would it be a good idea to maybe file or Dremel a little material off the backside of the skirts where they come closest to the counter weights?
Click to expand...
Don't over think it. Just assembly it and pay attention. It is tight inside the cylinder. Their squish is usually higher. Chances are high when you assembly it, it will be fine. But look and you can.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com
 
OK fellas I got my cylinder kit today and I'm pretty happy with it other than the exhaust is flat on top of the port but I will fix that I took some pics for everyone oh another thing the bottom of the exhaust port sits higher so the opening of the port is way smaller I don't take pictures of my port work on this one I was really busy to get the up and running but trust me it runs pretty darn good. IMG_20180507_114710.jpg IMG_20180507_114552.jpg IMG_20180507_114638.jpg IMG_20180507_114649.jpg IMG_20180507_114720.jpg
 
MG porting said:
OK fellas I got my cylinder kit today and I'm pretty happy with it other than the exhaust is flat on top of the port but I will fix that I took some pics for everyone oh another thing the bottom of the exhaust port sits higher so the opening of the port is way smaller I don't take pictures of my port work on this one I was really busy to get the up and running but trust me it runs pretty darn good. View attachment 650941 View attachment 650942 View attachment 650943 View attachment 650944 View attachment 650945
Click to expand...
Looks like you were so happy you rubbed it with sandpaper to welcome it. Likely to see if that finish was really that pretty. Good running is nice and now long running too

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com
 
Bedford T said:
Looks like you were so happy you rubbed it with sandpaper to welcome it. Likely to see if that finish was really that pretty. Good running is nice and now long running too

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com
Click to expand...
Lol. Pitchers didn't do the hone job they did much justice it is really nice. I'll be running it some more tomorrow but the way it runs now with the minimum port work I did I can tell it should be stronger than it was before.
 
Would anyone be so kind as to drop me a PM with a shop manual / IPL for one of these?
I am evaluating options on purchasing a kit and making a work plan for it.

I saw recently the kit dropped in price from $186 to ~$140ish (with $80 in shipping fees) is that about the best discount those guys do on it?
Considering I'll still need a chain/bar. A few OEM pieces it seems as well. Just trying to price it all out.

Also whats the word on the cylinders, I was reading somewhere here that some folks had problems?
 
The cylinders really are pretty crappy. The plating is very poor the bore is usually not round or concentric. If it was me i would step up to a better topend. Or you can run the supplied one from the kit and see how long it will run for. If you were to buy a decent kit you are looking at about another 100 to 140 just for a decent topend. Or buy a used oem (best) running option. Ive used a few hyway kits and a bunch of little red barn (performance saw supply) p&c kits and those PSS or LRB kits are very very nice.
 
dmitriy said:
Would anyone be so kind as to drop me a PM with a shop manual / IPL for one of these?
I am evaluating options on purchasing a kit and making a work plan for it.

I saw recently the kit dropped in price from $186 to ~$140ish (with $80 in shipping fees) is that about the best discount those guys do on it?
Considering I'll still need a chain/bar. A few OEM pieces it seems as well. Just trying to price it all out.

Also whats the word on the cylinders, I was reading somewhere here that some folks had problems?
Click to expand...
Sent
 

Similar threads

H
Airleak Troubleshooting Husqvarna 288 Farmertec Kit
Replies
9
Views
858
Husse88
H
GRT Ranch adventures
farmertec 660 kit build thinking about moding
Replies
4
Views
972
NSEric
N
J
Farmertec Warning
6 7 8
Replies
144
Views
16K
sean donato
sean donato
lee_the_wyrm
Farmertec Kit for Learning and Firewood
Replies
17
Views
5K
MustangMike
MustangMike
Chainsaw Collectors
Want to Trade Pile o’ saws, updated list
Replies
8
Views
561
Chainsaw Collectors
Chainsaw Collectors

Latest posts

Back
Top