FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

[2412]

It occurred to me that I have the wrong measurement. I think this is the one that matters.

In any case experimenting by adding tape should provide some answers.

 

[davhul]

I may have a oem to measure I'll see. Most of the time the master control switch needed to be shimmed on each end, Its to loose.
A thick straw over the ends or I've even cut a strip off a leather glove to add slight outward pressure to the switch. Something else you can try.

 

[davhul]

I don't have a oem trigger to measure

 

[carrbear]

The Wood Doctor had a solution for the lack of a fast idle on a 066, 660. I just tried this in my FT 660 and it works. It had no fast idle off choke. Now it does.

https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...-fast-idle-on-cold-start.192288/#post-5085359

Also a thread in the site we can't mention.

http://************/threads/660-fast-idle-solution-hooray.11450/

Copy and paste in your browser and replace the ************ with o-p-eforum.com without the hyphens.

 

[Ozhoo]

I mocked up an aftermarket tank and swapped parts around with OEM. What I learned was that either way of fixing the high idle issue accomplishes the same thing. Either shimming the control rod closer to the throttle trigger or replacing the throttle trigger with OEM restores high idle. Pics 1-3 are using OEM trigger and aftermarket control rod. 4-6 are aftermarket trigger setup.

 

[MG porting]

 

[Ck0461]

Anybody had an issue with the piston intake skirt wearing and allowing fuel to blow out the carb?

My clone started acting up during my last day of milling. Wanting to die on idle and not start hot. While troubleshooting I realized I could only get it running way rich with fuel blowing out of the intake. Once I leaned it out it’d die. Looking at the piston through the intake, I’ve got a nice shiny place on the bottom 1/4-3/8 of the intake skirt.
I’ll get some pics of my piston once I get it torn apart, to see what y’all think.

 

[MG porting]

Anybody had an issue with the piston intake skirt wearing and allowing fuel to blow out the carb?

My clone started acting up during my last day of milling. Wanting to die on idle and not start hot. While troubleshooting I realized I could only get it running way rich with fuel blowing out of the intake. Once I leaned it out it’d die. Looking at the piston through the intake, I’ve got a nice shiny place on the bottom 1/4-3/8 of the intake skirt.
I’ll get some pics of my piston once I get it torn apart, to see what y’all think.

Lol well you have a similar problem that I had but mine was only on half of the intake side. Blow back is normal on Stihl saw's because of the design that's why they have a baffle setup and some have the spung filter placed in the mane filter. I would like to see pictures of your piston and cylinder it could be possible that you my have a air leak somewhere.

 

[2412]

I mocked up an aftermarket tank and swapped parts around with OEM. What I learned was that either way of fixing the high idle issue accomplishes the same thing. Either shimming the control rod closer to the throttle trigger or replacing the throttle trigger with OEM restores high idle. Pics 1-3 are using OEM trigger and aftermarket control rod. 4-6 are aftermarket trigger setup.

View attachment 653982 View attachment 653984

I order more triggers from China. 10 of them for $10.00. A quick inspection reveals that they are the same geometry as the one I already had. After reading a bit more of the referenced threads, I have concluded that FT copied the original Stihl trigger, and they have not changed their molds to provide a working fast idle as Stihl did.

Time to start the return process, provide feedback on eBay, and order a Stihl trigger. I would take it up with HLS Pro, but it’s been to long. Maybe if they read this they can help apply pressure to FT to fix the trigger mold.

 

[Bedford T]

I order more triggers from China. 10 of the for $10.00. A quick inspection reveals that they are the same geometry as the one I already had. After reading a bit more of the referenced threads, I have concluded that FT copied the original Stihl trigger, and they have not changed their molds to provide a working fast idle as Stihl did.

Time to start the return process, provide feedback on eBay, and order a Stihl trigger. I would take it up with HLS Pro, but it’s been to long. Maybe if they read this they can help apply pressure to FT to fix the trigger mold.

FarmerTec is not going to do anything. What sort of feedback would you give, it works, they don't give a description that says it's the lastest. I suspect that is why you are not handling directly with HL. Whining in here does nothing other than provide helpful information on the difference in the trigger types. They made their investment now just buy a trigger and be done.

These Chinese dudes do not care what you think, I know that from direct personal involvement.

HL thought this out and they say don't build a saw with it lol

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[Bedford T]

I mocked up an aftermarket tank and swapped parts around with OEM. What I learned was that either way of fixing the high idle issue accomplishes the same thing. Either shimming the control rod closer to the throttle trigger or replacing the throttle trigger with OEM restores high idle. Pics 1-3 are using OEM trigger and aftermarket control rod. 4-6 are aftermarket trigger setup.

View attachment 653982 View attachment 653984 View attachment 653985 View attachment 653986 View attachment 653987 View attachment 653988 View attachment 653989 View attachment 653990 View attachment 653991

Which set of trigger photos have the fast included? OEM on left. Thanks

chainsaw kits and packing lists
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[blsnelling]

...crank ain’t turning real freely.. worries me. Not rubbing on either side but it’s tight even prior to any top end parts. I think a bearing is no good. Was I supposed to go OEM with them? Maybe I’m the problem, usually am

Were the seals removed? They should be. Did you relieve the side stress on the crank?

Minimum squish at least for a safe place on these saws would be .022 I really wouldn't push it much more than that so you're really safe with the nombers s that you gave us.

I'd shoot for .018"-.020". I've seen an 066 come from the factory with .017".

My squish was .30 with base gasket. Without the base gasket, the piston hit the head. Just my numbers to add to the mix!

The gasket should only be .017", so shouldn't hit without it. Something is amiss.

 

[Ck0461]

Pics of my piston. Significant wear on the intake skirt. I believe this is causing my issue. What do y’all think? Next step is to figure out if I want to buy another P&C or clean up the port and put a pop up piston in it.

 

[Bedford T]

When you are given clearance numbers be sure the numbers are coming from someplace that works with kits. The quality is not the same on the main bearings so the tighter the squish the higher the compression the higher the load on those am bearings. I say they will fail sooner.

Lately, there has been a lot of discussion on the problems you are having. I checked mine early and found ring blow-by, mg lost his kit and others that don't speak up had similar issues. The best advice is to replace the cylinder kit with a much better cylinder kit. Use oem circlips, use a oem wrist pin, piston bearing and don't make the compression higher than necessary and your saw will give you good service. I know several guys they just will not come on a forum that use these kits in their work and run them in the ground. They all die an early death from skidders or falls so it makes sense. The numbers are good if you just don't trust the carb and the cylinder kits. Those recommendations will solve your problem and and still save you money.

You can have fun and replace the piston and then when the main bearings go replace the crank and by then you will be ready to solve it. Chasing can be fun. We have all known the farmertec cylinders we're not great but something changed and they have gotten consistently worse. I wish everyone would report once in a while with # tanks used and a piston check on a regular basis. I bet it would not be good info. The rest of the saw is close to a copy. That's a key word, anything other is a waste.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
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[CsClimbr]

Were the seals removed? They should be. Did you relieve the side stress on the crank?

I didn’t remove the seals prior to installing the crank, and it did loosen up after relieving side tension. I just wanted to see if it would go together with them installed and it did but I do plan to tear it back down and use OEM seals when I do

 

[MG porting]

Were the seals removed? They should be. Did you relieve the side stress on the crank?


I'd shoot for .018"-.020". I've seen an 066 come from the factory with .017".


The gasket should only be .017", so shouldn't hit without it. Something is amiss.

Yea but lol. These crankshafts aren't as strong as the factory ones and pushing them much more than . 021 is a big gamble.

 

[MG porting]

When you are given clearance numbers be sure the numbers are coming from someplace that works with kits. The quality is not the same on the main bearings so the tighter the squish the higher the compression the higher the load on those am bearings. I say they will fail sooner.

Lately, there has been a lot of discussion on the problems you are having. I checked mine early and found ring blow-by, mg lost his kit and others that don't speak up had similar issues. The best advice is to replace the cylinder kit with a much better cylinder kit. Use oem circlips, use a oem wrist pin, piston bearing and don't make the compression higher than necessary and your saw will give you good service. I know several guys they just will not come on a forum that use these kits in their work and run them in the ground. They all die an early death from skidders or falls so it makes sense. The numbers are good if you just don't trust the carb and the cylinder kits. Those recommendations will solve your problem and and still save you money.

You can have fun and replace the piston and then when the main bearings go replace the crank and by then you will be ready to solve it. Chasing can be fun. We have all known the farmertec cylinders we're not great but something changed and they have gotten consistently worse. I wish everyone would report once in a while with # tanks used and a piston check on a regular basis. I bet it would not be good info. The rest of the saw is close to a copy. That's a key word, anything other is a waste.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy

Mine still runs. Lol

 

[Bedford T]

Mine still runs. Lol

And you upgraded both

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
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[MG porting]

And you upgraded both

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy

Lol yep glad I did definitely money well spent.

 

[MG porting]

OK this evening I would like to share some things with you all I noticed that my bar oiler wasn't up to task so I decided to go pull the clutch and take a look at what was going on there was two things that needed to be dealt with and one was the oil hose pickup it was split and yes it was a farmertec so in went the oem Stihl hose next was the worm gear it was a oem Stihl worm gear but doesn't mean nothing because I've had this happen before with other saw's if you hold the worm gear and then grab the metal stem and you can spin it around the worm gear then you not going to get full pup speed when you're running your saw just thought I'd pass this along now mine will easily oil a 36:bar and chain if I ever need to use one that big.