MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
Lol.You have to pull the top. I guarantee they don't want to do that they just got it built.
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Lol.You have to pull the top. I guarantee they don't want to do that they just got it built.
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As far as I know his was running fine mine ran fine to the only reason why I caught mine I because I was experimenting with base gaskets. The second farmertec cylinder kit I noticed something was just not right so polled it off and then decided that it was time to just spend the money on a good am cylinder.Looks like my piston. Was it causing issues running?
This is an example. last week a youtube subscriber told me his feelings on the 380 kit and said he was going to rethink buying that kit. this week he wrote he was leaning towards buying it. he phased it as I had a a few small issues with my kit. People get something in their head and their emotions rather than logic leads them dictates what they do. He wanted that kit and he kept looking until he found something that matched what he was looking for. I bet it was not recorded, bet it was just something someone said. I am applying that to this situation with these cylinders. everybody needs to look at the cylinders after it is run a day or so, just because i am having trouble it does not mean you will. but i think it means you most likely will. quality control is a concept they dont get.
Here is more information and some visual on the cylinders
YesThat was off a farmertec cylinder?
Wow didn't have that problem with mine but I wasn't using the decomp ether go's to show you that they all have their own quirks. LolYes
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Entirely my point.Wow didn't have that problem with mine but I wasn't using the decomp ether go's to show you that they all have their own quirks. Lol
They gave you 10$ for the trigger?
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So that's what we have been doing wrong. Well, bless our hearts.
This is an example. last week a youtube subscriber told me his feelings on the 380 kit and said he was going to rethink buying that kit. this week he wrote he was leaning towards buying it. he phased it as I had a a few small issues with my kit. People get something in their head and their emotions rather than logic leads them dictates what they do. He wanted that kit and he kept looking until he found something that matched what he was looking for. I bet it was not recorded, bet it was just something someone said. I am applying that to this situation with these cylinders. everybody needs to look at the cylinders after it is run a day or so, just because i am having trouble it does not mean you will. but i think it means you most likely will. quality control is a concept they dont get.
Going in to Farmertech saws and items it is clear that you are not getting high quality construction. I have been using my 070 with great success. Yes I have had to fabricate some parts and modifications. First of all anything that Stihl offers today is junk. The auto tune and carb limiters ruin any chance of trouble free work days. I work with some contractors from time to time that have all most new equipment. The newer 660 work well for a while and then when some thing goes wrong it becomes a major issue that can not be repaired in the field. So for me any thing that can not be repaired easily is not worth any thing. So I have to buy two of every thing to make sure I have a back up. Two brand new Stihl 660 power heads are not bargains. So a couple of Farmertech kits that maybe can give years of service is worth whatever it costs compared to other options. When I go cutting it is a several week adventure. My normal MO is to cut enough wood in about three outings to last an entire year worth of hauling and marketing. So when I cut it has to count and going to get service away from the field has never been an option. Thanks
Well today I got all my fuel hose and tank vent and seal I although I know that the farmertec fuel filters are restricted but another thing I noticed was the tank vent was restricted to the hoses I knew were junk but I ran them because of me putting money in the saw in other places. Lol. Now finding that having two restricted areas in the fuel system that my tun was of after I put in the oem Stihl vent and filter she was running a little fat compared to where I had it with the farmertec stuff and the farmertec stuff has very little time on it so just for those who are building these saw just spend the ex money and get oem rubber and filters its not that much $$to make it a good saw.
Lol. Now you know why I haven't but my ome one's on yet I don't feel like fitting them when I tare it down to Finnish up my port work them circlips love to fly.Have I heard that before from somebody. Lol, no kidding aside. It's all Part of the fuel circuit. Anything that effects the fuel effects the lubrication. Plus our rubber is better. There are only about 10-15% of the parts need to be oem to make long runners. That is not a dis.
I just found that circlip that got away from me. I have 1.5 dozen on order of 12/10's so I will not get in a spot again. I moved a tool it there it was. Lol. So I can move on and get her done
chainsaw kits and packing lists
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Get a oem and be doneOk some info and a question. Ordered a new oil tube. Got it in today and popped the 660 apart to put it in. That video I post a few days back I was just not happy with the amount of oil coming out as I said. So we talked I ordered a tube and it was also brought up the spring arm on the worm drive gear may be spinning around the plastic. Well yes it is! So guys check this on your saw! I am pretty sure it had actually stopped turning and was no longer oiling at all. The wire that engages the clutch bell and is around the plastic gear rotates 100% freely. Which means zero oil pumping.
So question is did you come up with a solve? Take spring wire off pinch the circle tighter so it holds stronger? Order OEM and be done?View attachment 657413 View attachment 657414
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