dmitriy
ArboristSite Lurker
I forget if there was a reason you can't just change the main jet instead of the whole carb? (I bought mine from mittysupply)
FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread
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I forget if there was a reason you can't just change the main jet instead of the whole carb? (I bought mine from mittysupply)
dmitriy
ArboristSite Lurker
How would you know it works like the Stihl. It's shaped like the Stihl. That is all we know besides it's cheaper. Does "no need", mean a wire was not included?
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Why would you want to change the jet, you want to starve it of fuel. It can be changed. It's the right jet for this saw. Walbro wj76 Carb is ready to go after tuning.
Only difference in 67 or 69 is the jet size. Delivering much less oil/fuel. Think of the carb as the engine oiler
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dmitriy
ArboristSite Lurker
The wire was included but I didn't use it since the chainsaw spark plug / wire are close enough to the tach for the magnetic field to work. It has a resettable max RPM history as well as ability to switch for different ignition types. Refresh rate of about 1 second and judging by this video works about the same. But I don't have a stihl to compare to obviously.
So originally my thought was to use the FarmerTec KIT carb and just make the main jet in that larger - to deliver more fuel, BUT I totally had a brain fart and forgot that those carbs might actually have a different 'throat' size and the 76 will actually let more air in as well as more fuel. Anyhow the point is moot as I got my carb from mittysupply (heck it arrived before the saw even did
)So far 1/2 a tank. need to go find some wood.
On back William Prophett mentioned we should be mindful of the nylon bumper behind the bar plate lifting it off the case and causing a mess and less oil on the chain.
I was putting my new rim kit and as it sat on the bench I saw the bumper behind it. Now I installed it. It did lift it up slightly.
So I think what it is, it is suppose to be there, it's just that the aftermarket is slightly thicker. I will test that theory with a oem and see if it lays flat.
Devil is the the details, I was holding saw so you don't see the slight gap but it's there
I was putting my new rim kit and as it sat on the bench I saw the bumper behind it. Now I installed it. It did lift it up slightly.
So I think what it is, it is suppose to be there, it's just that the aftermarket is slightly thicker. I will test that theory with a oem and see if it lays flat.
Devil is the the details, I was holding saw so you don't see the slight gap but it's there
William Prophett
ArboristSite Operative
You could definately sand it down so that the bar plate sits flat. And, it definitely has an "installation point" cast into the case like you said. Kinda looks to me like it would only serve a purpose if you didn't have the bar plate installed. There are a lot of saws that don't have the plate, but this particular saw really needs the plate to encapsulate the tensioner guts.On back William Prophet mentioned we should be mindful of the nylon bumper behind the bar plate lifting it off the case and causing a mess and less oil on the chain.
I was putting my new rim kit and as it sat on the bench I saw the bumper behind it. Now I installed it. It did lift it up slightly.
So I think what it is, it is suppose to be there, it's just that the aftermarket is slightly thicker. I will test that theory with a oem and see if it lays flat.
Devil is the the details, I was holding saw so you don't see the slight gap but it's there
I am a kit builder and I adhere strictly to Stihl practice adjusted for differences created by it being a copy. Example, bad advice to use a 17 squish on an Farmertec cylinder, not because of the cylinder but because of the main bearing under it. So it's easy, very easy, to get bad advice on our kits on a wide range of matters. Not that the advice is untrue with a original saw. But that's not what we are building. So when they indicate something I go along with it. I am not, nor should anybody else try and reinvent the chainsaw. We have a road map. It's best to follow it.
I installed it because on every edition of the 066 or 660 that I have paperwork on and I think I have them all, there was a bar plate and it looked to support the plate from underneath. Actually shielding the nylon stop.
So now I wonder if the nylon piece interfered simply by being thicker. And that is precisely what makes this so much fun. Yes you can cut it, sand it, pound it. But you have to compare it to an oem first to determine if it is in fact the cause.
Or you can just slap it together and never look at it closely. I fall in the look at it closely camp. Know and understand. The case is one of their better reproductions. Only one maybe two flaws so far. The chain adjuster which was a major screwup and maybe the locator pin exit hole (maybe that was on the 440 only)
We will see.
I installed it because on every edition of the 066 or 660 that I have paperwork on and I think I have them all, there was a bar plate and it looked to support the plate from underneath. Actually shielding the nylon stop.
So now I wonder if the nylon piece interfered simply by being thicker. And that is precisely what makes this so much fun. Yes you can cut it, sand it, pound it. But you have to compare it to an oem first to determine if it is in fact the cause.
Or you can just slap it together and never look at it closely. I fall in the look at it closely camp. Know and understand. The case is one of their better reproductions. Only one maybe two flaws so far. The chain adjuster which was a major screwup and maybe the locator pin exit hole (maybe that was on the 440 only)
We will see.
William Prophett
ArboristSite Operative
While I hear what you're saying, if a person wants to build a saw that functions properly, you just don't "put it in because there is one on an OEM Stihl" if it doesn't work. The nylon guide is too thick to let the plate seat. You need to figure out how to deal with it. I don't really care "how" you do it, but the plate needs to sit flat against the case or bar oil won't all go into the bar. So "to each his own", but all my saws function perfectly. All my saws are "work saws" and that's not just the 660 clones. These aren't "play saws" or "ebay sale" saws. If you want the oiler to put the oil in the bar, the plate needs to seat around the oil journal with no gaps.... The engineering behind a nylon chain guide is such that it can rub/guide the chain without damaging the chain and not allowing the chain to damage the case. This nylon guide is not in a position to do that with the plate installed.
Well bless your little heart. I hate I hurt your feelings. Really.
Attached are photos of a FarmerTec nylon guide and a Stihl one. For everyone else but William notice the thickness. The huztl is thicker and would push the plate up. The Stihl nylon would still support the metal plate but not lift it.
chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
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Attached are photos of a FarmerTec nylon guide and a Stihl one. For everyone else but William notice the thickness. The huztl is thicker and would push the plate up. The Stihl nylon would still support the metal plate but not lift it.
chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
William Prophett
ArboristSite Operative
"Hurt my feelings"? Are you brain damaged? I'm agreeing with you. I don't care how you fix it, it needs to be fixed. Christ, the other day you were telling some guy on here that "problems need to be fixed and that's what the kit is about. So, what would be your suggestion as to fix it? So far, all your answers are "throw some more OEM parts in it"... These guys are looking for a functional/cheap saw... At some point, it's gonna cost more to complete the saw than it costs Stihl. You would buy an OEM nylon chain guide over a few thousandths of an inch, when you could just rub it on a piece of sandpaper a couple times or just leave it out!? Man bro, you really need to chill. I know this is "your" thread, but I thought we were trying to all get together to solve potential problems...Well bless your little heart. I hate I hurt your feelings. Really.
Attached are photos of a FarmerTec nylon guide and a Stihl one. For everyone else but William notice the thickness. The huztl is thicker and would push the plate up. The Stihl nylon would still support the metal plate but not lift it.
chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
Get's to be like the story about stone soup.
Did you get your kit yet?
Yeh I got it. Looks pretty good. Put the cylinder on last night with no gasket to check the squish and she hits the top and stops, measured the gasket .022
I havn't checked it with the gasket installed yet but with some rough measuring she looks to be tight boys!
Is there another company that makes a thicker gasket?
I havn't checked it with the gasket installed yet but with some rough measuring she looks to be tight boys!
Is there another company that makes a thicker gasket?
William Prophett
ArboristSite Operative
What are your port timing numbers with the gasket installed?
Wow, mine was .035 without a gasket. I didn't try it with it.
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golddredgergold
ArboristSite Operative
Same for me .037 no gasket. I squared it up on the lathe. Took a little off at .031 no gasket just yamabond #4.
Worked on the pig tonight, put it together with the gasket on, checked 4 spots had .024 on 2 and .025 on 2. So I put it together, thats strange everybody else is ok with no gasket.
cylinder looked pretty good maby somebody had a brain fart on mine. Almost done with it, had to order decomp plug so I can leak test it, probly be next week before I get that.
Case was really nice, bearings were smooth, seals looked and felt fine, gasket looked like a gasket, should be fine, brake spring was wrong, fuel cap came with a O ring installed,
sprocket has Stihl name on it, rubber parts look good to me, yeh they dont look and feel like stihl but they look like they will be just fine, throttle plate on carb looks like a big leaky toilet,
choke lever and trigger are garbage, it wont have a fast idle, plastic is nice looks like decent quality. I personally don't like that the screws came pre applied with loctite,
I didnt have any problems but fine threads tiny screws that dryed up crap can ball up and make them go in tight, just makes test fitting a pain in the ass, I prefer to apply my own.
Case went together like butter stuck crank in freezer heat gun case to almost 200 floped right in, prepared press stuck case half with crank in freezer
waved the heat gun around the case just fer a min it was a touch over 100 the case halves fell together with my hands to within a 1/4 inch finished in the press
and that took NO effort what so ever. could have lightly tapped it with hammer and socket and seated it.
I know some of you already know this stuff, Iam just telling my thoughts about the kit. Mike
cylinder looked pretty good maby somebody had a brain fart on mine. Almost done with it, had to order decomp plug so I can leak test it, probly be next week before I get that.
Case was really nice, bearings were smooth, seals looked and felt fine, gasket looked like a gasket, should be fine, brake spring was wrong, fuel cap came with a O ring installed,
sprocket has Stihl name on it, rubber parts look good to me, yeh they dont look and feel like stihl but they look like they will be just fine, throttle plate on carb looks like a big leaky toilet,
choke lever and trigger are garbage, it wont have a fast idle, plastic is nice looks like decent quality. I personally don't like that the screws came pre applied with loctite,
I didnt have any problems but fine threads tiny screws that dryed up crap can ball up and make them go in tight, just makes test fitting a pain in the ass, I prefer to apply my own.
Case went together like butter stuck crank in freezer heat gun case to almost 200 floped right in, prepared press stuck case half with crank in freezer
waved the heat gun around the case just fer a min it was a touch over 100 the case halves fell together with my hands to within a 1/4 inch finished in the press
and that took NO effort what so ever. could have lightly tapped it with hammer and socket and seated it.
I know some of you already know this stuff, Iam just telling my thoughts about the kit. Mike
That is strange. Did your cylinder have a name on it? Mine had no name but was in a farmertec box. I was disappointed that I had .035 squish with NO gasket.
I just started on the 365/372 kit and its the same way. .032 .033 .035 .036 with NO gasket. I don't think I will be buying anymore of these kits.
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Nope had no names on it anywhere. had a squigly line marking in combustion chamber thats it.
I got my plug and done a leak test it failed, cylinder gasket leaked. Took it off and put it on a glass table and I could rock it just a touch, wet sanded it with 600 paper on the table until it was clean, put it back on and it held pressure and vacuum. checked squish now have .019 .020 Finished the build and the pig started on the forth pull, couldn't believe it. Put a new 25 inch bar and chain on it today and laid her in a thorn tree stump I had lying around that was cut off and holy crap the pig is an absolute Beast!!! I dont even know what to say, not sure how long she will live but for what little money it cost this thing will flat out eat wood.....
I really didnt run into any major issues, so far only thing I have replaced is the brake spring, compression release valve, couldn't have put it in if I wanted to the little hood above the nut part was bigger then the nut, you cant get a socket to the nut. If they dont look at some of this crap they might as well not waist the money to make it, but whatever, and I ordered the switch lever and trigger. I do have some slack in between the clutch drum and e clip that I dont really like, quess we'll see how that holds up. I had to file some on the side of the screw that holds the bar plate on cause the bar hit it, brake handle hit muffler, dremiled that, the upper cover hole for the spark plug needed some clearance made so you can get a socket on the plug, didnt come with nuts for the bumber spikes (had some in my shop) I dont know what they were thinking with that little ass air cleaner stud but it barely made it through the air cleaner, I had a bolt that was longer and cut the head off (fixed), sanded the bumper strip down so the bar plate sit flat like was talked about earlier, wish they would have gave a little more clearance for the plug wire where it comes out of the coil and hits the case. I think thats about it pretty simple deal. If they would address the few little issues they would have a real winner, that is if you can get a fair amount of use out of one before it explodes. Mike
