Felling bar for in the tree?

[Ekka]

Hey MasterBlaster

I can't tell from that photo if you have 2 attachment points, or if your wearing hardhat/muffs/chaps/cutting above shoulder height etc but I can see you doing something which is a definate no, no.

Using a saw one handed is bad enough but throwing blocks off the bar as shown is crazy, for the time/speed gain you think you're achieving versus the potential for injury, your mad. A scarf, snap cut etc with a pull line etc is far more sensible and the way I've been trained and doing it for years.

If anyone on my site does what you've illustrated I would be blowing the big red whistle asap ... nowhere, even in current training for arborists is that permitted. Put another $50 on the job and do it safer.

 

[NeTree]

one-handing a saw is bad bad bad.

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[Newfie]

one-handing a saw is bad bad bad.

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But you look like such a stud when you do it.

 

[NeTree]

Aw, Mike... You think I'm a stud anyways!

 

[P_woozel]

Hey MasterBlaster

I can't tell from that photo if you have 2 attachment points, or if your wearing hardhat/muffs/chaps/cutting above shoulder height etc but I can see you doing something which is a definate no, no.

Using a saw one handed is bad enough but throwing blocks off the bar as shown is crazy, for the time/speed gain you think you're achieving versus the potential for injury, your mad. A scarf, snap cut etc with a pull line etc is far more sensible and the way I've been trained and doing it for years.

If anyone on my site does what you've illustrated I would be blowing the big red whistle asap ... nowhere, even in current training for arborists is that permitted. Put another $50 on the job and do it safer.

For anything overe 3' or 100# you are correct, but to rule out "chunking" is not realizing a skill that a removal guy has to have in is bag of tricks.To much time will be spent tying, hauling the tag line up for anything less than small to medium logs at least. I do think that on large chunks guys are foolish for not putting some sort of face for pushinbf off a round that weighs 250# but I would be blowwing my top if some guy was taglining 3' chunks out of a fir. :umpkin:

 

[fpyontek]

I have to agree with NeTree. I have been using an orange plastic "Stihl" wedge with a hole drilled near the end and a length of starter cord. Having a guy or two (depending on the piece) pulling on a tag line, seems a better bet that the piece will go in the direction I want it to. I don't have to worry about where the prybar is might fall and I can also concentrate on holding that 020 or 044 with both hands.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

In blocking stuff out into rig under load, i especially like the pull line and bar or wedge to force stronger hinge before compression in face, for less shock as hinge hands load off to rig.

The differance between tearing off at 1:30 and falling into the rig, vs. muscling over farther on hinge and tearoff not coming until 4:30, then starting to fall into catch of rig; is a lot to me. Usually the inital speed is less on the slower tearoff, as is the accelreration before catch too, for lots less shock on catching rig.

i especially on short, wide blocks will put a small V in the top back side, to keep the line in, as it reaches over the top and ties to back. the V acting as keeper. The top position giving maximum pull leverage, the over the top, i think more arc force. On bigger logs like this to catch under load on rig, i'll stay tied in, but muenter onto the pull line , descend to face, mule/lock the muenter off, to work the face more comfortably. i'm still tied in 2x by climbing line and lanyard, the muenter giving most positioning etc., but not counted as part of 'safety count' of tie ins.

 

[Ekka]

Dear P_Woozel

For anything overe 3' or 100# you are correct, but to rule out "chunking" is not realizing a skill that a removal guy has to have in is bag of tricks.To much time will be spent tying, hauling the tag line up for anything less than small to medium logs at least. I do think that on large chunks guys are foolish for not putting some sort of face for pushinbf off a round that weighs 250# but I would be blowwing my top if some guy was taglining 3' chunks out of a fir.

I'm not sure if you could call that practice a skill or a bad habit. There are other options, even cutting the block through and putting the saw down then throwing the block off is much better. You could miss match the cuts to hold the block in place, put the saw down then break & throw the block. Or as suggested here use a lever etc.

In that pic the block Masterblaster has "chunked off" is about 6' long, he is unable to get his hand or arm on top of the block to help tilt it so he can get the saw through the back (one handed) so in these instance most guys don't want the saw to jam so they start pushing the block off and your not all the way through (if you were you'd probably put the saw down and push it off with both hands). I've seen plenty of chains derail, one guy slipped on his spikes as he was pushing and chainsawed his forearm. It's simply not wise.

So, why not put another $50 on the job and do it safer.

I must admit, I am amazed by the risks we take to save a customer money ... and sometimes we are our own worst enemies, xyz company quoted $50 less than me and he'll be chunking off to save time so what short cut can I take to beat his price? It becomes a negative spiral, where the risks increase, margins decrease and the winners are the customers, but will they be paying your medical bills?

So, I feel that as professionals if we played safe and priced right we would make good money and enjoy our work a little bit more and hopefully a lot longer.

 

[MasterBlaster]

If anyone on my site does what you've illustrated I would be blowing the big red whistle asap ... nowhere, even in current training for arborists is that permitted. Put another $50 on the job and do it safer.

Yah, rules are good things.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

FlipSide: That method does give more climber confidence, and a feel for the event, to read it by. Could tell sooner if there was a problem, stall, too fast of movement, when to slow down on cutting, get out of the way, which side of face might have closed early, give helping push for more hinge strength, coach ground control, even apply emergency adrenaline etc.; that 2 hands concentrating on a vibrating, noisy saw doesn't give. It is a trade off, as all else.

i think that the line pull should come from above Center of Gravity. Not just for leverage; the position matters i think too. The one decision of pulling higher or lower than CG; compounding the factors.

i always imagine that if a line pulled me from the shoulders i might tumble forward, from the CG straight forward, but tied at knees, fall back some on forward pull. Of course i also imagine, that if the line traced over the top of my head and tied to the back belt loop; it would pick me up at belt and push top down, for more tumble forward. i don't know if that action is obtainable in the degress of movement of a tree with line tension on it. But in smaller, slower moving that you are flexing the hinge over a distance and pulling around on the hinge arc with line i think the model would be especially true i think.