Felling Technique - Need tips

[davefr]

I've been felling trees on occassion for years but need some new lessons.

Sometimes I have a tree that's out of balance and I want to fell it in the opposite direction to the center of gravity. Is wedging the proper way to do this?

How can a chainsaw bar and wedges exist in the same kerf?
Do you do the backcut first, wedge the kerf and than do the notch cut? (the trunk diameters are no more than 20")

 

[Deere John]

Get a hold of a training publication on chain saw use. It will cover both basics, maintenance and advanced techniques. The are available at WCB and forest product training associations.

A wedge is a handy thing, but it can also get one in trouble if you are not using it the right way and end up hanging around too long under a dangerously thin hinge area, cut that way to make the use of a wedge seem possible. Sometimes, you can not influence the direction of fall, other times the technique will allow you 10-15 degrees control from due "down". If you a felling tricky trees, get the book, read and understand it, and get the right safety gear.

We could write here all day, and not cover what others have done. Good luck in your search. Perhaps others will post specific names, and I can too if you strike out in your locality.

 

[treeclimber165]

This might not be the answer you are looking for, but I am considering all the homeowners/part time users here. I was taught to ALWAYS set a rope in a tree to be felled if there is ANY doubt as to where it will fall. Even though I was adept at notching and felling, I still got written up more than once for not setting a hand line in 'floppers' that the safety guy thought were too close to obstacles. "If in doubt, rope it!"
A throw bag or bow and arrow are 2 common methods for setting a rope in a tree.

 

[Dave]

Doing almost all of my jobs in back yards,at a minimum I use a bull rope with a Z rig,bigger stuff gets a four part block and tackle on the tail of the Z rig, and scary stuff gets the PTO winch in the bed of the truck. For me the two most important considerations are to get the pull as high in the tree as possible and don't get your hinge too narrow. And most important of all-don't forget that tree doesn't really like you and will use any opportunity to do you harm.

 

[rbtree]

davefr,

Three wise replies ahead of me. We are all pros doing residential tree work, so we are used to using ropes, which are always better and safer than wedges.

IF you have lots of space to work with, then wedging is fine. But caution, especially for you own safety, is paramount. From your post, it sounds as if you need to learn more.

But you mentioned problems with having room for the saw and wedges in the backcut of smallish trees. Some tips. First, always make the wedge cut first. Make it no more than 1/3 deep, especially with a back leaner. Then, start your backcut, leaving appx 20% hinge width to tree diameter. This should give enough room to place two 6 inch wedges, parallel to the saw bar. Then, you can carefully cut in, till the hinge is about 10% of diameter. Now you might have room to place a (longer) wedge behind the cut. With a heavy back leaner, you may need to stack wedges. But now we're talking more advanced stuff. Best leave it to the pros!

Then there's side leaners and head leaners, which also present extreme difficulties and concerns.....


Here's a link to Douglas Dent's professional publications:
http://www.forestindustry.com/ddouglasdent/index.html

 

[Deere John]

I have an 8000 lb Warn winch that quick-mounts on my Boss plow hitch. I use that to ensure the tree will do what needs to happen. Sometimes, I hood the pull line completely with cable and chain - no ropes to make sure there are no surprises. By using more stout hardware, I can leave a bigger or designer hinge to swing the tree or pull it backwards, as was the original question. Still, its not for the newby. I also play with the size of the notches in combination with the amount of hinge to control when the tree breaks free and the attitude it has when it hits the ground (to minimize damage to lawns, etc.).

Lots of good experience in the members here.

 

[Gordon]

Tree felling is an art all of it's own. There are a number of different hinges that can be used safely to fell the same tree all with alittle different results. Also there are variations to each hinge that can be used to help steer the tree as well. It comes with time and most importantly you have to treat each and every tree different.

Someone cutting timber will use a different cut than someone doing tree work in a persons yard. So here are a couple of links that might be of some help to you.

http://www.timberbuyer.net/chainsaws/start.htm

http://www.osha-slc.gov/SLTC/logging_advisor/manual/felling/felling.html

Hope this helps
Gordon

 

[Treeman14]

In addition to all of the good advice previously posted, each tree species has different strength and hinging characteristics. Also, live trees hinge differently than dead trees of the same species. You can learn some of this from books, but a lot of it comes from experience. Most of us learn these lessons the hard way. I hardly ever use wedges. I prefer a pull line placed as high as possible. There are many factors to consider before felling a tree - height, lean, wind, species, strength of hinge wood, cavities, decay, hangers(aka widow makers) and, in the words of Dirty Harry, " Do you feel lucky?" If there is anything within the fall zone that you value, I'd leave it to a professional unless you are absolutely sure you can get it to go where you want it.

 

[Gordon]

Yea Treeman that learning curve can be pretty steep when first learning the proper felling techinques. I've been through that curve and it will make you respect both the tree and the saw.

Alot of my work is done in the woods so wedges are my best friend. There is alot you can do to steer a tree with wedges after going through the learing curve. But I do use a rope if I'm felling a difficult tree by a house or yard.

A good reply to people who question you about felling a tree by a house. When in doubt hire it out and thats why I pay the big bucks to the insurance agent.

Cut safe
Gordon

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Yep, felling is dangerouse. I see people with years in the proffesion still cutting their hinges out to "steer" the fall. Scary.

I usualy use a plunge behind the face cut, leaving a tab of suporting wood on the back. The plunge is parralel to the apex of the face cut. Set wedges, cut tab, pound wedges to "jack" the tree up. When it starts to fall, exit along planned route.

I too use a pull rope as 1/2 inch of insurance.

Proper felling cuts do not need steering as the tree drops. This is very dangerouse and can lead to OSHA enforcing logging standards on our industry. you should be able to be away from the tree within 10 seconds of the start of falling.

Ever seen a hinge blow out?

 

[Gordon]

The plunge style cut is not for the faint at heart. Another cut that can also work well with heavy leaner is to make your face cut and triangle your back cut to both sides of your face cut. Then let your saw rip through the rest of the tree to create a hinge. That way your saw isn't in the cut as long.

Wedges used properly can be your best friend not only in felling but in bucking as well.

Yes I've seen a hinge blow out and guess what. I was the one that caused it. As they say live and learn. By the grace of God I've lived to talk about some pretty dumb mistakes. But I'll admit that over the years of cutting you can still be amazed by a simple ole tree. Keeps you on your toes. You have to know what kind of tree your cutting and how it will usually react. Not that your just dropping a tree.

Gordon

 

[Dave]

I priced a homeowner chipping job the other day with an oak laid across the biggest pile. Of course the first thing I look at is the notch on the stump-sure enough, the part that looks like it was trying to be a notch is in the opposite direction! When I called him with the price I also offered a free lesson in falling.I figured if I can help keep him alive I might get more work from him .

 

[Chain Gang]

Felling near valuable structures is tricky. JP Sanborn's use of wedges is good technique for logging. But near a house, I feel a tip line or rope is a minimum. Personally, if there is a concern that I can't direct a tree where it needs to go, I would rather climb it and lower it down in pieces. This is a classic case of where education and experience can make a big difference in the outcome and its expense!

 

[Treebeard]

Near valuable objects...houses, etc...sometimes you simply can't fell a tree safely. Never be to shy to take that puppy down in pieces rather than try aiming between the jacuzzi & the house. It takes more time, sure, but thats why we bid on the job as it is, not "what's it cost to cut down my tree" rates.

 

[treeclimber165]

I wish I had remembered this thread when Mr Smarta-- Landscaper Lonestar something asked "How do I price tree jobs? I don't do tree work yet but want to"

 

[Deere John]

Brian - when my wife asks me 30 minutes from now why I've been laughing for 30 minutes, ....... you'll get the blame.


LMAO

 

[Gordon]

It would be foolish to qoute a price over the phone sight unseen to remove a tree. That is a perfect way to go out of business. Sometimes wedge and rope, othertimes the only choice is to chunk the tree down. Yup, takes longer but the price should reflect in as well.

I like that, how do I price tree jobs. :alien:

That would be like me asking the brain surgen how to price out a brain rework. Now that is a scary thought.

Wonder what his insurance carrier would think about that question. NICE

Gordon

 

[Gypo Logger]

It has been my finding that arborists dont make good loggers, but loggers make good aborists as long as they dont have to climb. I like both feet planted firmly on the ground, if God meant me to fly, he would have given me wings. Plus arborists, for the most part, cut summer wood, some are this long, some are that long, mainly because the duller the saw gets, the longer the pieces become.
John

 

[StIhL MaGnUm]

Hey John,

I have to agree with you on this one..I have seen alot of arborists try to work the woods like a logger an they just dont seem to last very long at it for some reason..No offense to any of the arborists here I'm just saying arborists are arborists an loggers are loggers when you mix the two together they just dont work too well together..They are just two totally different professions

later Rob.

 

[tony marks]

yep ,the arborist makes his money for
working on the trees . usually for the benefit of the tree and surrounding area...
the logger makes his from harvesting
the tree and making profit, on the timber.
hopefully both will always have their place in the tree industry.
never thot about it much but theys a good bit of difference.