Rip Chain for 660 ?

[HansFranz]

I want to build a woodworking workbench but can't find decent lumber for the 2' x 7' x 3-6" top, so I plan to cut slab(s) from a dead tree (I think I have a dead white oak or loblolly pine that will work), then joint and glue them up if need be.

Don't have an Alaskan mill, but plan to nail a board to the tree as a guide to get a planar surface, then turn it and repeat to square it up and get it down to manageable size to bring home and work on...

Can anyone recommend a good ripping chain to use for this on my 660 with 28" bar?
The bar uses .050" chain 3/8" and IIRC 91 DL.
If I'm lucky, I think there's a WO that's been down 10+ yrs., so assume it'll be dry and hard stuff.

I googled around for a while, but kind of got lost. Thanks for any help.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

If it had been 3/8 058 I could have made you a loop ripping 10 degree semi chisel to try. From these 2 100' rolls I got on trade years back. 1 was ripping and 1 full skip FC.
I was just going to file it back to normal if that need ever comes.

 

[HansFranz]

Semi chisel or full-chisel better?

For most of my firewood cutting, I use full chisel, but don't know which to choose for ripping downed, dried hardwood.

Anyone tried this stuff?
https://www.amazon.com/8TEN-Ripping-Chainsaw-Chain-Stihl/dp/B09PVMPK3R

 

[heimannm]

The ripping chains I've seen have all been chisel, 10° seems to be the preferred angle. Just take one of your current chains and sharpen it at 10°.

This is a piece of Oregon 51RL; .404 .058 ripping chain that looks to be filed or ground at 0 or 90° depending on your persecpective.









Mark

 

[cscltd]

You can use Stihl 33RMX ripping chain.
.050 3/8 standard sequence pre made by Stihl and I think almost same price as their reg chain.
Most use semi chisel for rip chain now it seems. Before was chisel.
Oregon has greatly increased the price of their premade rip chain.

 

[SS396driver]

Semi chisel or full-chisel better?

For most of my firewood cutting, I use full chisel, but don't know which to choose for ripping downed, dried hardwood.

Anyone tried this stuff?
https://www.amazon.com/8TEN-Ripping-Chainsaw-Chain-Stihl/dp/B09PVMPK3R

I haven’t tried their ripping chains but I wasn’t impressed with their regular chains . Got a couple real cheap at ACE on clearance.

 

[ammoaddict]

Just use the chain you have. It doesn't have to be 10 degree ripping chain.

 

[HansFranz]

Just use the chain you have. It doesn't have to be 10 degree ripping chain.

You read my mind. That was my next question.

The best price I could find online for a 91 dl loop of 33RMX was about $41 on ebay.
Is it worth spending that much for a one-off, one-time job?
Since I've never used a ripping chain, I don't know. Do you still get the same noodles that clog up the saw?

I have plenty of good sharp full-chisel regular chains for that saw that I could use instead...

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

You read my mind. That was my next question.

The best price I could find online for a 91 dl loop of 33RMX was about $41 on ebay.
Is it worth spending that much for a one-off, one-time job?
Since I've never used a ripping chain, I don't know. Do you still get the same noodles that clog up the saw?

I have plenty of good sharp full-chisel regular chains for that saw that I could use instead...

You dont get noodles until you start ripping face grain, not end grain.
Think about Granberg/Alaskan mill set ups and how the bar is introduced to the log- then think about blocking up rounds of firewood and where the bar is in relationship to the round of firewood.
If you rip down the face grain- standard chain and noodles.
If you rip along the end grain- 10 degree top plate cutter angle and much finer dust/chips.

 

[Mad Professor]

I just checked ebay there is a lot of the 33PMX chains.

I wonder why they don't import more of their 63PMX (3/8 0.050 picco/lo pro)? Last time I checked a Stihl they said couldn't get it. OP probably won't want to try that as need matching bar and drive sprockets.

 

[HansFranz]

I just checked ebay there is a lot of the 33PMX chains.

Huh. I just put "stihl 33pmx chain" into the ebay search bar here and came up empty. Is 33PMX a ripping chain?

 

[J D]

For a one off, where you're not concerned about the best finish possible, there's little point in buying anything specific. I'd either use what youve got , or take an old chain & file it back to 10 deg. Either way, take the rakers taken down a fraction more than usual & run the file slightly lower in the gullet to increase the top plate cutting angle (create more "hook")
Semi-chisel will potentially give a better finish & keep its edge slightly longer Full-chisel will reduce the load slightly (to a similar degree as filing at a lesser top plate angle does).
Unless you're really good at free hand cutting with a chainsaw, your best bet is probably going to be to make up a simple jig to help run the saw straight. Depending on what machinery you have access to, an hour or to spent making a guide could easily save you twice that time in finishing the surface. Something that bolts to the bar studs & runs along a plank would be quick, cheap, & fairly effective

 

[Patrick62]

A few years ago, I sharpened up a chain for a guy running a mill. Set the vice at 0 tilt, and the angle to 10, and made sure I had a decent undercut on the tooth. He said that worked great! faster and smooth....
Just sharpen up on of your old chains to 10deg, don't make the rakers real low, you will run outta power

 

[Mad Professor]

Huh. I just put "stihl 33pmx chain" into the ebay search bar here and came up empty. Is 33PMX a ripping chain?

Typo 33RMX, 3/8 0.050 rapid micro 10o cutters

 

[muddy42]

The only difference with ripping chain is the top plate angle - say 10 degrees rather than 30.

I used to swap chains and buy specific 10 degree chain for milling but now I just use 30 for everything. If your milling technique is good - even sharpening, no forcing or see-sawing the bar, the wood finish is pretty similar.

 

[HansFranz]

Thanks for all the help everyone.

I just found a nice white oak in the woods that has been down (suspended off the ground by its branches) for at least 10 years. Stuck a knife into it and it's as hard as cast iron, once you get past the sapwood. So that's what I'll be milling.

I decided to buy a cheapo Chinese knockoff of the Granberg Alaskan mill, and since it's hot here lately (almost 70°F here today in Virginia), I figure I will wait until a bitterly cold winter day to slab out what I need, to help keep the saw cool.

My frankenstein 660 (mostly Chinese but with many Stihl OEM and good aftermarket parts like Meteor p+c, Taiwanese crank, etc.) only has about 10-15 hours on it, and I really don't want to burn it up. For big firewood I currently run 40:1 with Mobil 1 Racing 2T Synthetic oil, and I always use non-ethanol 90 octane ... what do you experienced millers run for your oil ratio when milling? I was thinking I might go to 32-to-1 on the oil and tune it pig-rich when I'm milling ... do you folks have any other tips on how to preserve this 660? Do they tend to lean out when they get rippin hot?

I really appreciate all the good advice.

 

[Mad Professor]

Thanks for all the help everyone.

I just walked my woods and found a nice white oak that has been down (and suspended off the ground by its branches) for at least 10 years. Stuck a knife into it and it's as hard as cast iron, once you get past the sapwood.

I decided to buy a cheapo Chinese knockoff of the Granberg Alaskan mill, and since it's hot here lately (almost 70°F here today in Virginia), I figure I will wait until a bitterly cold winter day to slab out what I need, to help keep my saw cool.

My frankenstein 660 (mostly Chinese but with many Stihl OEM and good aftermarket parts like Meteor p+c, Taiwanese crank, etc.) only has about 10-15 hours on it, and I really don't want to burn it up. For big firewood I currently run 40:1 with Mobil 1 Racing 2T Synthetic oil, and I always use non-ethanol 90 octane ... what do you experienced millers run for your oil ratio when milling? I was thinking I might go to 32-to-1 on the oil and tune it pig-rich when I'm milling ... do you folks have any other tips on how to preserve my saw?

Thanks again for all your help.

I've been using the same mix in my 2-strokes for years now. Golden Spectro at 50:1. I mill with my 066 using that.