File those rakers down!??

[old-cat]

My boss frequently comes and looks at my chain and tells me to file the rakers down without even checking them with a gauge. What I'd like to know is how far can I go past .65mm? It seems that it would depend a lot on the power of the saw? Mine is an MS 361 with modded muffler and 20" bar with 3/8" full chisel full complement chain.

 

[Anthony_Va.]

I don't know man, it depends on alot. Like you said, the size of the saw and bar matter. Type of chain. Type of wood.

I use a Husqvarna depth gauge on mine. The "hard" setting is almost too much sometimes for big hardwood. The "soft" setting would be too much for hardwood definetly. I'm not sure what the measurement would be, but the depth gauge is progressive to I guess it changes as the cutters wear out.

Do you use a depth gauge when you file yours?

 

[fearofpavement]

.65mm is only about .025 so a bit more than that wouldn't hurt in my opinion.

 

[rmihalek]

Grab an old chain and grind the rakers completely off with a bench grinder. Put it on your saw when you know the boss man is going to come by. Pretend you're filing the rakers down as he strolls over and ask him what he thinks!

 

[greg409]

It's my understanding the accepted range is .020-.030 in. (in your .65mm area)

More than that can/will cause "grabbiness" (yes, that's a word cuz I said it), depending on the wood among other things.

Less than that will reduce the mouthfull of wood the saw removes.

It's all relative, if you are an animal, give it hell & hold on.

If you're a wuss (like me), stay in the guidelines and you won't be beat up @ the end of the day.

Just sayin'

luck,greg

 

[old-cat]

I don't know man, it depends on alot. Like you said, the size of the saw and bar matter. Type of chain. Type of wood.

I use a Husqvarna depth gauge on mine. The "hard" setting is almost too much sometimes for big hardwood. The "soft" setting would be too much for hardwood definetly. I'm not sure what the measurement would be, but the depth gauge is progressive to I guess it changes as the cutters wear out.

Do you use a depth gauge when you file yours?

I very seldom file the rakers cause when I check them with the gauge they're OK.

 

[JRepairsK70e]

on 3/8 full chisel 70cc + saws Ive been using .028" @ more than .031" chains get real grabby in northeastern hardwoods

 

[old-cat]

Grab an old chain and grind the rakers completely off with a bench grinder. Put it on your saw when you know the boss man is going to come by. Pretend you're filing the rakers down as he strolls over and ask him what he thinks!

 

[Busmech]

I use an .030 gauge on all of my chains, .035 will work in soft wood but not so good in hardwood.

 

[Denis Gionet]

My boss frequently comes and looks at my chain and tells me to file the rakers down without even checking them with a gauge. What I'd like to know is how far can I go past .65mm? It seems that it would depend a lot on the power of the saw? Mine is an MS 361 with modded muffler and 20" bar with 3/8" full chisel full complement chain.

If your saw has some torque, and you want more bite, you can take 'em down more than spec. Heck, I run a 435 Husky and the rakers are all but gone once I'm done filing the cutters the 2nd time around.... out comes the flat file. I like an aggressive chain, regardless of the HP behind it (or lack of, in my case). Much more pleasant for limbing and brushing, but almost too aggressive for bucking. I can't lean on it at all in 12" of wood - the little engine that could, can't.

In your case, with your saw and mods, you could pull it off. BTW, I don't even own a gauge (yet) but for the limited firewood I cut, it's hardly critical.

 

[lambs]

If you have access to a digital angle finder, I've found about a 6 degree drop is all you want. Stihl chain, stock, seems to run about 4.25 degrees or so. Measuring the angle is consistent with progressive filing. Although if you use your basic depth gauge tool, then try the chain out, you will find out soon enough whether or not you need to file off a little extra to get it cutting well again without too much vibration.

There's a great old thread here somewhere about whether or not a File O Plate really produces progressive filing. I had to read it several times to get it, but once I figured it out I was sold. Check it out. I think a member named BobL wrote a lot of the thread, and there are tons of pictures in it too that illustrate why progressive filing is better than just using a basic depth gauge tool.

 

[jus2fat]

Simply ask your 'boss' to show you how to it should be done..then do it 'his' way.

If it's too 'grabby'..and 'jumpy'...then let him feel it - if he says it's fine...look for another employer..!!

When I was young...I worked for a few real county fair blue ribbon azzholes...that knew it all...!!

J2F

 

[tree monkey]

here is a list of reasons no to take the rackers down too far

saw cuts slower
arms get tired from jerking
hands get tired from death grip
increased chain strech
increased sprocket wear
increased bar wear
less tip life
clutch damage
crankshaft brakage
main bearing damage
shorter mount life
broken case
carpal tunnel
white finger

i'm sure there are more

 

[dingeryote]

"Be one with the file-o-plate young grasshoppah..Tell Bossman he dinky dau!!"

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[arborealbuffoon]

What about high velocity wood shrapnel launched toward the operator's bits? Grabby chain with the rakers too low will launch more crap at you while working in brush. I have seen more than one perfectly good loop of chain ruined by some over zealous idiot with a flat file.

Once you get smacked in the jewels by a stick traveling at 467 miles an hour, you too will understand.

 

[MCW]

I have been guilty in the past of getting far too excited with the rakers and this has been on some pretty powerful, ported saws too.
If you ever have to start doing more technical felling cuts or bore cuts you'll look like a complete idiot when the saw bites, kicks, stalls etc etc.
I got to the point where enough was enough and I was getting too much bogging and stalling when felling. In my opinion you can take a chain "slightly" past a File-O-Plate setting but any more than that and the chain will only be good for cross cutting small bits of wood.
I did a forestry course a while back thinking all was good until I tried to do a felling bore cut in pine. It bit, bucked, and carried on and the instructor was straight onto me saying that I'd taken my rakers down too far, it was dangerous, and unproductive. He knew EXACTLY what I'd done and was right

 

[old-cat]

If you have access to a digital angle finder, I've found about a 6 degree drop is all you want. Stihl chain, stock, seems to run about 4.25 degrees or so. Measuring the angle is consistent with progressive filing. Although if you use your basic depth gauge tool, then try the chain out, you will find out soon enough whether or not you need to file off a little extra to get it cutting well again without too much vibration.

There's a great old thread here somewhere about whether or not a File O Plate really produces progressive filing. I had to read it several times to get it, but once I figured it out I was sold. Check it out. I think a member named BobL wrote a lot of the thread, and there are tons of pictures in it too that illustrate why progressive filing is better than just using a basic depth gauge tool.

This is the kind of info I was hoping for! THANK you.

As for asking bossman how, no way! I've seen his wacked down raker saw in action. Treemonkey said it right!

I have an injury to my leg right now from a piece of wood the saw threw at me, OUCH!

 

[Ambull]

Tree Monkey is right. Too aggressive on the rakers and the saw will actually cut slower. It will buck and kick back too. I tried getting real aggressive one time and I basically ruined a chain.

 

[SawTroll]

.65mm is only about .025 so a bit more than that wouldn't hurt in my opinion.

The setting of the rakers should be progressively deeper as the cutter is filed back. .025 may be right with new chain in really hard wood.

I use the "soft" setting of the Husky guides in birch, that start at .030 on new chain, going up from that number as the chain is filed back.

 

[HEAVY FUEL]

here is a list of reasons no to take the rackers down too far


arms get tired from jerking
hands get tired from death grip
increased chain strech
increased sprocket wear
increased bar wear
less tip life
shorter mount life
carpal tunnel
white finger

i'm sure there are more

I heard you can go blind from filing your rakers too much.....