Sharpness and teeth in the wood is at the bottom of it all. You could put a 36" bar an that saw if you're only cutting 10" pecker poles and the oiling is adequate even if it's hard wood. His longer bar is just to increase his ability to stand upright. I think he'll be disappointed if his aim is to help his back. I think the balance with the slight extra weight makes the saw noticeably tip heavy for limbing and bucking on the ground. I noticed it when I put a 28" bar on my saw.
I get it, I've done it, but I'd rather run a small saw. That being said it's not me with the issue, I'll be running a 70cc saw with a 24/28 tomorrow, and I'll also run everything from there down to a 35cc saw.
As
@lone wolf said, a 241 is a nice saw, and a 201 is even better if you have a bad back, and a 193 is lighter yet, and a 2511wes is even lighter but...I think it's important to establish whether the weight is more of an issue for the OP, or bending over, also what exactly he wants to accomplish, which is why I didn't give a quick answer. There are many solutions for a problem, but just as cutting on his knees didn't work for him, a long bar may not either.
Until he post back I see no reason to keep offering solutions unless its for others, I'd also keep it simple as much of the info I understand, but someone new to cutting may get lost in it all.
I think everybody has missed the best choice for a back saver when bucking, it's a Bow saw. No bending and weight is supported on what you are cutting, all you have to do is hold on to the handle and let the weight of the saw do the work. The problem is finding one.
Was that you in the videos, if so, you're a hoot, and living on the edge
. Nice saw/bars, I bet the chains weren't happy with all the trenching though
. I liked the end of the video too.
I'll agree.I missed what he "gained" from all the work moving the logs. I would have cut in place.
He was moving them to mill, not to buck.