First Bore Cut

[greengoblin]

Well, how did I do?? Any advice?

 

[clearance]

Looks good, I guess, but why, what is wrong with the "old fashioned"way?

 

[masiman]

I'll take a shot

Well, how did I do?? Any advice?

I'm only putting my worthless guess in so I too can be critiqued :biggrinbounce2: . The bore looks pretty darn good to me. Not quite even on the hinge. The hold was a little out of square from the hinge. The cut on the holding looks like it was below the bore (can't tell exactly from the angle). Is that the way it should be? It looks like you cut through the holding on the right side before it got to to left (pulled fibers on the left)

It looks like your notch was not quite open enough. I am guessing that because the right side of the notch has the bark peeled away like maybe the notch closed a bit early.

Did it roll to the right a little when it came down?

I think it looks great. I wish mine looked like that. Don't be shy about letting me know how wrong I am .

Me <- :newbie:

 

[stihl 440]

bore cut

Well, how did I do?? Any advice?

It looks good to me! I use this method 95% of the time when cutting, actually sometimes I think it's faster! It takes some skill to master, but after awhile it just comes natural. :rockn: :biggrinbounce2:

 

[sILlogger]

is that ash? what type of wood is that?

 

[greengoblin]

Looks good, I guess, but why, what is wrong with the "old fashioned"way?

Well, it was a leaner and have read how much safer and easier to prevent barberchair with it so I have it a shot. Have some bigger leaners that will need to be cut, it made good practice.

is that ash? what type of wood is that?

Not really sure, wasnt paying any attention as to what it was. Does kinda look like it now that you mention it

 

[Ax-man]

Looks good, your using the right cut if the tree is a heavy leaner. You don't need to make your face cut quite so far back as the tree is going to fall that way anyway. Some guys have made comments that trees have ripped that tab or holding wood at the back of the cut before they either completed the cut or before they had a chance to cut that tab. If your going to be doing bigger trees make a smaller face cut and increase the holding wood at the back for a little extra safety, try to make that last cut that releases the holding wood on the same plane as the bore in cut, not below it. You can cut into the corners of the face notch a little if you want a good clean fall. I don't know if this makes a big difference, after you get the tip in, bore in straight, just behind where want the hinge then cut backwards to the place you want your holding wood, looks like you came in at an angle. Splitting hairs a little on this one. It is a hard cut to master at first because all you can think about or should be thinking about is how to control kick-back , gets easier with practice.

I think for a first time you did a very good job. The hinge looks nice and even, kind of sexy actually if your into notch and hinges.

Larry

 

[clearance]

If this tree was a heavy leaner your saw would have got pinched in the undercut. But as you say, practicing. I have cut down heavy leaners, I don't use this method. Each to his own.

 

[smokechase II]

Looks good

Just curious.

This may or may not have happened.

The bark in the lower right has been clipped and not on the lower left. The tree might have pulled slightly to the right, (as we face the stump).

Did the tree go in the direction of the face?

Trivia: For most of us on the West Coast, if that tree wasn't a heavy leaner, we would have made the face the same depth you did or just slightly deeper, then just cut straight in from the back.

On a tree this size, where your bar goes through, this is fairly easy to get an even hinge. A simple trick is to use your sights to make sure your back-cut is headed to the same spot as your face is.

All the Best

 

[Freakingstang]

If this tree was a heavy leaner your saw would have got pinched in the undercut. But as you say, practicing. I have cut down heavy leaners, I don't use this method. Each to his own.

huh?

bore in from the center, after making your notch, then you can finish the backcut or remove the saw and cut the remaing strap from the outside. There is no "under" cut. The bore cut is the under cut, but it is supported by the holding wood at the hinge and then the strap, depending on how much you bore. the strap will temp hold it if you choose not to finish the bore as the backcut.


Looks to me like the releasing cut didn't line up with the bore cut, but other wise it looks ok, but remember, I am just a hack

 

[tek9tim]

There is no "under" cut.

So what's that in front of the holding wood? Are you telling me that you fell trees with no undercut?

 

[clearance]

Undercut-backcut, thats all there is folks, Elvis has left the building.

 

[greengoblin]

huh?

bore in from the center, after making your notch, then you can finish the backcut or remove the saw and cut the remaing strap from the outside. There is no "under" cut. The bore cut is the under cut, but it is supported by the holding wood at the hinge and then the strap, depending on how much you bore. the strap will temp hold it if you choose not to finish the bore as the backcut.


Looks to me like the releasing cut didn't line up with the bore cut, but other wise it looks ok, but remember, I am just a hack

I dunno, I might be wrong, but I think that what he was referring to was the under cut of the face cut. Which makes sense to me as I understand the need of a shallow face cut on a heavy leaner better now. Cut too much face on a heavy leaner and the tree will want to fall. Thanks for the feedback from all.

 

[clearance]

Face cut, notch, whatever=undercut. I guess its called the undercut because it is under (lower) than the backcut, or at least its supposed to be.

 

[smokechase II]

undercut

Still curious if there was anything that happened where the arrow points.
Working against a lean maybe?

Undercut = notch = face = kerf.

Squared area is the undercut.

 

[SawTroll]

...

I think for a first time you did a very good job. The hinge looks nice and even, .....

Larry

I agree with that, and most of what you wrote - but he did right in cutting the holding wood (strap) below the main backcut.

Personally, I would probably have left the hinge a bit thicker....

 

[greengoblin]

Still curious if there was anything that happened where the arrow points.
Working against a lean maybe?

Undercut = notch = face = kerf.

Squared area is the undercut.

No, it fell very in line with the notch... I am kinda confused regarding the tearing too.... the notch matched the lean very well... I dunno :help:

 

[greengoblin]

I agree with that, and most of what you wrote - but he did right in cutting the holding wood (strap) below the main backcut.

Personally, I would probably have left the hinge a bit thicker....

Thanks SawTroll, I kinda expected you to tell me that it would have looked better if I did it with a MS361. It was done with a MS310, I was for sure that you would have noticed that. :jester:

Sorry, I know that you get a lot of grief but I personally think that you are great...

 

[Tzed250]

The work looks good. I usually release my strap just below the back cut. Goblin, you will find that there are many diferent opinions here. Do what you are comfortable with, and work on technique. Looks like something in the face split the wood out in the stump, but it is just the stump.

Happy sawing!

 

[rbtree]

Tearing is common with fibrous trees. It can be alleviated by putting in shallow kerf cuts, aka splint cuts, ears, relief cuts, etc, at 90 degrees to the hinge and below by a few inches.

Why not finish the backcut straight out the back? There's no real reason or need to leave a strap and then reverse the final direction of the cut.