First Bore Cut

[stihl 440]

bore

Tearing is common with fibrous trees. It can be alleviated by putting in shallow kerf cuts, aka splint cuts, ears, relief cuts, etc, at 90 degrees to the hinge and below by a few inches.

Why not finish the backcut straight out the back? There's no real reason or need to leave a strap and then reverse the final direction of the cut.

The reason the strap is there is so you can have your bar out of the cut when the tree falls, so IF it sets back it won't pinch your bar. Which if you're using this method and the tree is a back leaner, you should already have it setting on wedges before you cut the strap. :hmm3grin2orange: :greenchainsaw: :biggrinbounce2:

 

[stihl 440]

huh??????

If this tree was a heavy leaner your saw would have got pinched in the undercut. But as you say, practicing. I have cut down heavy leaners, I don't use this method. Each to his own.

:deadhorse: :deadhorse: :deadhorse: :notrolls2: :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[GASoline71]

I'm with clearance... I rarely ever use a bore cut.

Gary

 

[tek9tim]

The reason the strap is there is so you can have your bar out of the cut when the tree falls, so IF it sets back it won't pinch your bar. Which if you're using this method and the tree is a back leaner, you should already have it setting on wedges before you cut the strap

:bang: if you're using it for anything but a heavy head leaner you're wasting your time. :deadhorse:

 

[GASoline71]

:bang: if you're using it for anything but a heavy head leaner you're wasting your time. :deadhorse:

Yup...

Gary

 

[stihl 440]

no

:bang: if you're using it for anything but a heavy head leaner you're wasting your time. :deadhorse:

Sorry to tell you this but, I've used both methods on back leaners. And the bore cut is the only way to go. Besides on small trees(10in) you can't get wedges in the cut, and if so sometimes not fast enough. On biggggg trees like (10ft) across you might be wasting your time, but I've seen guys bore them too. You can come out and cut with me sometime, you use no bore cut and I'll use bore cuts. You would be fiddling around with wedges trying to wedge the tree over, and I'll already have another tree faced out and working on the backcut. You get my point? If you think I'm the only one that bores most of my trees go to the other landings around western pa, you'll see that they bore most of their trees too. :greenchainsaw:

 

[clearance]

Sorry to tell you this but, I've used both methods on back leaners. And the bore cut is the only way to go. Besides on small trees(10in) you can't get wedges in the cut, and if so sometimes not fast enough.

The only way to go huh? Your funny. "Besides on small trees you can't get the wedges in the cut", huh? What you talking 'bout Willis? Try this 440, on small trees, put in the backcut first, then put in a wedge, then saw the undercut, then hit the wedge, down she goes.

 

[stihl 440]

funny?

The only way to go huh? Your funny. "Besides on small trees you can't get the wedges in the cut", huh? What you talking 'bout Willis? Try this 440, on small trees, put in the backcut first, then put in a wedge, then saw the undercut, then hit the wedge, down she goes.

Boring is faster. I ain't gonna fight.:biggrinbounce2: :rockn:

 

[GASoline71]

Boring is faster.

Not so much...opcorn: opcorn: opcorn:

Gary

 

[clearance]

Boring is faster. I ain't gonna fight.:biggrinbounce2: :rockn:

Boring is boring.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

The last tree I dropped I bore cut. Why? Cause I'd never done it before and I wanted to try it out. I read... Yep, no experience... that you can avoid a barber chair by bore cutting if you are using a saw that maybe doesn't have the power or bar length to make the back cut quickly enough.... wait.. that is with leaners isn't it... already covered.

Ian

 

[tawilson]

The only way to go huh? Your funny. "Besides on small trees you can't get the wedges in the cut", huh? What you talking 'bout Willis? Try this 440, on small trees, put in the backcut first, then put in a wedge, then saw the undercut, then hit the wedge, down she goes.

I've never tried that before. Doesn't your bar get pinched when you are doing the face cut?

 

[Haywire Haywood]

The only way to go huh? Your funny. "Besides on small trees you can't get the wedges in the cut", huh? What you talking 'bout Willis? Try this 440, on small trees, put in the backcut first, then put in a wedge, then saw the undercut, then hit the wedge, down she goes.

Hey... I've read about that technique... :hmm3grin2orange:

Ian

 

[clearance]

I've never tried that before. Doesn't your bar get pinched when you are doing the face cut?

Obviously this is done on trees that have to be wedged over. You don't pound the wedge, you just stuff it in and give it a smack, then you put in the undercut. So, if the wieght of the tree is pushing down on the backcut, your bar will not be pinched putting in the undercut. This method is approved here on small diameter trees, its done all the time. The bore method will not work on the smaller trees, no room, think about it.

 

[Gologit]

:bang: if you're using it for anything but a heavy head leaner you're wasting your time. :deadhorse:

Yup...and why waste your time. I've experimented with bore cuts when I didn't really need them just to see how they worked but I don't use them much. Humboldt face,
level back cut, wedges or tree jack...seems to work pretty well for everything I've run across so far. And so far has been quite a while now.

 

[Tzed250]

More bunched up panties...:deadhorse: :deadhorse: :deadhorse: :deadhorse: :deadhorse: :deadhorse: :deadhorse: :deadhorse:

 

[rbtree]

The reason the strap is there is so you can have your bar out of the cut when the tree falls, so IF it sets back it won't pinch your bar. Which if you're using this method and the tree is a back leaner, you should already have it setting on wedges before you cut the strap. :hmm3grin2orange: :greenchainsaw: :biggrinbounce2:

By cutting out the back, the bar is out when the tree falls....

As far as bore cutting back leaners, I'm with all the other westerners who don't do it or see a reason to do it. Would love to see you in action, though.

My guess is, a production west coast faller would leave you in his dust. 'Specially if you were messing around with open faces.....

 

[stihl 440]

doubt it

By cutting out the back, the bar is out when the tree falls....

As far as bore cutting back leaners, I'm with all the other westerners who don't do it or see a reason to do it. Would love to see you in action, though.

My guess is, a production west coast faller would leave you in his dust. 'Specially if you were messing around with open faces.....

Why would you think that a production faller out west would outcut me? Actually my open faces are more conventional. 90-45 degree downcut first and level horazontal cut that the cuts meet exactly. If a faller puts in a face say humbolt style and less than 45 degrees he risks fiber pull and if too thick hinge, barber chair. I know its probably done but, it's a little risky putting one in less than 45 degrees. Again it's a PNW vs EC thing. An if I where to cut one of those big redwoods or doug firs, You better believe I would put in a humbolt or gap with snipe face. Don't get all worked up, RElAXXXXXX. :rockn:

 

[stihl 440]

+1

More bunched up panties...:deadhorse: :deadhorse: :deadhorse: :deadhorse: :deadhorse: :deadhorse: :deadhorse: :deadhorse:

+1 People around here need to calm down!

 

[John Ellison]

Hey, its deja-vu all over again.
Just so people dont think all west coasters are against bore cutting, I remember fallers talking about bore cutting leaners in the 70s before I ever started falling. Also what about the leaningist of the leaners. Big fresh blow down that has not quite made it down and is at a 45% or so. I am gona bore cut it.
I tried smokechaseIIs (or was it Burts) method of boring straight in the face aand out the back, then wedge and the cut the sides and it works real slick on a backleaner if it is the right size. I will also make the backcut first and wedge then cut the face on small trees.
If I were falling large higrade hardwood I would probably be doing more b=cutting. But why do it all the time in all timber?
The smaller pine sawtimber that I normally work around here would be insane to bore cut every tree.
I think a guy needs to know how to do it and use it when he needs to, but there is no way it is going to be faster than a standard back cut. Otherwise those racers would be bore cutting every time. No way I claim to be fast, maybe just halfast:greenchainsaw:
Has any one heard of production softwood cutters that use it all the time? I sure havent.
I dont think anybody is saying that it is not a useful to use when it is needed.
Myself, I will use it any time I know or think the tree is going to get too big of a head start on me before I can get cut to the hinge.

Greengoblin, it looks good to me too. You have good control of the saw. Also they say ash (if that is what it is) is barber chair prone, so you made a good choise of cut if it was a leaner.