mt.stalker
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Here's a little tip for you. Lay your cylinder gasket on the cylinder base, mark it with a scribe, then port match the cylinder to the base using the scribed mark. This takes a lot of blending work, but is worth it.
At the same time, raise the cylinder wall at the transfer intake area up so that it's even with the cylinder base. Then add windows to the piston to look like a Stihl piston. Not only will it add flow, but it will help cool your piston crown.
Maybe not everybody's cup of tea, but this is how I do it.
The left side not done yet of course in the first pic.
I keep my walls and floor/roof pretty straight but I guess others could do things differently.
It has been mentioned that radiusing the side walls of the exhaust helps scavenge from the transfer sides of the cyl, but something I don't practice personally.
As Nanuk mentioned with the pencil and I grind the pencil down both sides with a curvature to one side. Also I don't think even then the pencil gets right in to the outside so make considerations for that also.
I also think that the inlet doesn't have to be opened as much as the exhaust keeping good velocity.