Fiskars Axe, just arrived.

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Ha! Happens to most everyone first trying one out. I was just near dumbfounded how much easier it was compared to my regular old maul.

This might sound weird here, but I have to stop myself splitting sometimes, just so I don't run out of rounds! In midwinter it is so muddy I can't go in anywhere easy and cut and haul out, but I still want something to do with wood. So I save up a coupla cords or three and split a little at a time.

You'll find it won't do all your wood, but it should be able to handle most of your wood fairly easy. I have around, real rough guess, about 5-10% that get to be hard to split, so I throw them in my bummer pile and beaver away at them later. Regular stuff that splits fair, you can just knock it out. It is almost like machine splitting, it's so fast and easy.

Not crazy at all. I am also rationing my splitting and have about 6 cords on the "future Fiskars Feast" stack. Realized my ready pile by the stack was shrinking too fast so started yesterday by hauling to garden trailers of rounds to add to it. Mud is the stopper for me. Even using a splitting block it doesn't take long for sod to turn to mud.

Harry K
 
I almost want to go back to my maul because of the extra effort involved in splitting with it. I need to work off the beer somehow. :msp_tongue:

I just got in from splitting with my X27 then I busted up a bunch of small stuff for kindling with my X7. I split twice as much in a half hour than with my old maul. That's no exaggeration either.
 
only one person has addressed my burning question. for those of you who've used both the x25 and the x27 - which is preferable?

What, you think we digress.:smile2:



The X27 I feel generates more club head speed, (sorry golf term) and will split better. I find on normal swings with the X27 I just hit it, when it is gnarly I will intentionally "cock" my wrist into the strike to get everything out of the swing.

The X25 seems to feel better when you place the rounds up on another round to get it off the ground and more at knee level. When on the ground you feel if the strike went awry, you could hit yourself in the foot/ankle which would be real bad.:frown:
 
When possible, split inside a tire. You won't have any problem with a bad swing following through right into your leg or something that way.

I have heard of the tire thing but haven't tried it. My ax swing is very similar to my golf swing which is as near perfection as humanly possible.:potstir:

I like the X27 much better than the X25 and everyone who has tried both of mine, have had the same opinion.
 
I have heard of the tire thing but haven't tried it. My ax swing is very similar to my golf swing which is as near perfection as humanly possible.:potstir:

I like the X27 much better than the X25 and everyone who has tried both of mine, have had the same opinion.

--I have never tried the longer handled version, I have the original short handle supersplit. theoretically, from a strict physics angle, the longer handle would give a faster "head swing" once it got moving and with the right force.

We were discussing this on another thread early this year and I wondered what it would be like to have a halberd type splitter, something like a fiskars head on like a five or six foot long handle.

Just for fun

I can swing a 36 just fine, but being 5-5 the shorter handle suits me as well, and it really is the head shape, the wings and quite narrow head wedge design, the sharpness, and the technique in swinging and precise aiming. I was able to adapt from a roundhouse typical slower and more awkward maul swing to an overhead fast chop so easily..meh..don't know if I would get all that much more out of buying another one for an 8 inches longer handle. Besides, they changed the head shape, the one I have is pret near straight, the new ones, the x25 and 7, are more traditional axe shaped.

I like the carry handle guard on the newer ones better though,a lot better. I have one of those on my hatchet. However, even that could be improved, as in, where the heck is the belt loop or attachment part? A hatchet should be able to be carried on your belt.

And I usually split on a block, and once whatever is left of the round fits, it goes into a tire. I use the two blocks nearby to each other method. Start the big rounds and go around and around taking off outside pieces, then as soon as it fits, transfer to the tire and finish square chopping it up, from round and round to tic tac toe grid splits.

Quite frankly, If I was to pop for another splitting axe, I would save my nickles and try one of those lever axes. I was just staring at that design and dang..it looks real spiffy to me, some thought went into it. Look at it and follow the forces involved.

It's just like more than two weeks income for me so ain't happening any time soon.

I got the fiskars, even though those are4 even expensive for me, because the dang heavy maul was starting to kill my neogeezer self. Just got to the point I hated the dang thing. It was just a chore, a necessary and hard job, something to get over with, and you knew you were gonna be hurting later.

Now, splitting went back to being BIG FUN! Split Sport! I can *easily* split five times as much (some big number like that) as with my old maul and not get whipped and beat up. What's not to like?

That's as good of an endorsement as I have ever made for any product ever.

The other one I will make..worked in a second amendment type general repairs and warranty center before (most major brands of any note), I paid attention to what was out there in large numbers and DIDN'T come in for repairs very much. Any kind. Hands down running away from the pack, Rem 870.


Try the tire, works well, keeps stuff from falling over/flying away and great for loading up a bunch of smaller rounds for halving or quartering.

I haven't tried the take a slew of rounds and bungee them all together method yet, as I don't split on the ground if I can at all help it. A medium dull fat maul, don't care much, split on the ground, a sharp axe, nope, up on a block and brushed clean between rounds.
 
I have been thinking about getting the Fiskars X27 for some time now. I just wish I could try one out before I buy one but after reading all the good things about them, I may get one. I reason I may get one is because after swinging an 8lb maul many times, my back tends to start bothering me, every once in a while, it will go completely out. Since the X27 is lighter, hopefully it will help that situation.

Quick question, would it be worth it to get the Fiskars sharpener as well? Or would a grinder wheel do a good of job as the Fiskars sharpener?
 
a sharp axe, nope, up on a block and brushed clean between rounds.
I don't split on the ground much either, just big stuff with the wedge. The angle isn't right for me, so I usually cut a shortish round just for a splitting block.
 
I have been thinking about getting the Fiskars X27 for some time now. I just wish I could try one out before I buy one but after reading all the good things about them, I may get one. I reason I may get one is because after swinging an 8lb maul many times, my back tends to start bothering me, every once in a while, it will go completely out. Since the X27 is lighter, hopefully it will help that situation.

Quick question, would it be worth it to get the Fiskars sharpener as well? Or would a grinder wheel do a good of job as the Fiskars sharpener?

The Fiskar's sharpener is a great companion to the X27 and its kin for touching up and maintaining the edge, which is a smart thing to do. If you really bugger the edge bad, there are better options. Nice thing is, it's small and can be used anywhere, anytime. It does work as intended, but recreating a badly ruined edge ain't it purpose.
 
I have an older short supersplit and the x27. I loved the supersplit but got a fantastic deal on the x27 so I gave it a shot. It took me a few times out to get used to the x27. I'm 5'8" and all I really had to do was get used to setting my feet about 8" farther away from the piece to be struck. It was mearly a matter of muscle memory. I still use the SS on the smaller rounds. The tougher/bigger stuff gets the x27. I prefer the x27 for the physics put forth by woodheatwarrior...longer handle=faster speed=more energy=splits in my pile.
 
Or would a grinder wheel do a good of job as the Fiskars sharpener?

You sharpen axes, you don't grind them.

Buy a whetstone...I use my grandfather's, looks like they're can be bought for $20-30 on Amazon if you don't go crazy (I have no idea about quality since I've never shopped for them, but I'm guessing there's not a big difference...)

Use a file to remove any nicks, then finish up with a whetstone. It's pretty easy and I find it relaxing, try to do mine a couple times a season (of course no wife so I can bring it inside and do it while watching TV by a warm fire :D )

Tricks of the Trade | Northern Woodlands looks like a good set of instructions from a quick read.
 
Quick question, would it be worth it to get the Fiskars sharpener as well? Or would a grinder wheel do a good of job as the Fiskars sharpener?

I wouldn't use a grinder on it. A good 8" Mill Bastard File is fine, or a medium for razor sharp.:)
 
I bought an X27 a couple months ago, and loved it so much I got an X11 for dealing with BBQ wood. These tools are real winners.
 
I don't split on the ground much either, just big stuff with the wedge. The angle isn't right for me, so I usually cut a shortish round just for a splitting block.

Same here. My block is an 8" high x 16" Black Locust clear grain. Been in service 3 years now and stillshows no sign of coming apart. I gotta watch for a good crotch or knot round to make another one in case this one finally surrenders.

Harry K
 
I have both an X25 and X27. Both work great but the short handle on X25 is kind of scary.:msp_unsure:

Yeah I've had my X25 for a little over a year now and the short handle does take some getting used to.

Trbo, congrats on the Fiskars! You're gonna love it :)
 
Tricks of the Trade | Northern Woodlands looks like a good set of instructions from a quick read.
Those instructions look OK, but it doesn't read like it's for an axe that will be used for splitting. The preferred angles may be somewhat different - I've found that some wood requires blunter angles while other wood works well with a narrower taper.
 
Quick question, would it be worth it to get the Fiskars sharpener as well? Or would a grinder wheel do a good of job as the Fiskars sharpener?

I have the sharpener as well. It just touches up the cutting edge and hones it to a very SHARP edge. A grinder would in all probability take too much off and ruin the taper which I believe is engineered to work the way it does.
 
For all you guys that split with a heavy maul, I've posted this a couple of times before:

The equation for kinetic energy is <img src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/math/4/1/4/4140f53f66a68e92afec2389ba289e25.png" width="94" height="25" alt="E_k =\tfrac{1}{2} mv^2" /> , where m is mass and v is velocity.

So if you double the weight of the axe you double the energy of the hit (assuming you can swing it just as fast), but if you double the speed you swing it you quadruple the energy.

Mauls have their place, but this is why I split with axes.

I know just enough math to know that: lighter stuff = easier to lift. :msp_biggrin:

x27 is a fine tool
 
Haven't had any time in the past few days to do any splitting, or cutting of any sorts. Just been busy busy with work, etc. WAY BEHIND on wood for next year. I am only five six tall so thought the short one would fit me better, and I have a few small rail ties witha 3/4in plywood on top for splitting on so that raises it up a bit. Can't wait to really go to town with it.

Trbo
 

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