Fiskars X27 What a Piece of Plastic

[Overclock]

So that may be my issue. I don't fondle my handles, just grip the crap out of it and try to drive the head of the X27 into the ground.

That's what you have to do to get them split small enough to cram in your microbus.

 

[Ambull01]

That's what you have to do to get them split small enough to cram in your microbus.

Nah. I noodle them in the woods and toss the chunks into my short bus. I split at home. I like to take my time with my plastic POS.

 

[zogger]

I haven't actually broken a handle in years. Could be I am just too wuss to break them, but..I rarely get overstrikes, or misses. Last one I replaced, the shaft finally shrunk enough and had so many wedges put in it, it just wore out, so I replaced it.

I have a couple axes to rehang, but that's because I bought the bare heads.

 

[Big_Wood]

my wood handle axes split stubborn hemlock pretty good. when i'm doing firewood for money i try to make every step/swing count so if i got some stubborn hemlock i switch to the maul just to take away the wood integrity with the first split. then pop splits off of what's left with the axe. most people want fir which is really easy to split once seasoned so it's just a plinking game. the odd few that order hemlock i should almost charge more though LOL. when i think about energy and time spent sometimes it's better to use the heavy weight then to swing the light weight over and over which is why i own both. i haven't broken a handle in years as well. i buy yellow twine at the dollar store, wrap it around the handle just below the axe head tightly then put hockey tape over that. i think i've only broken 2 or 3 handles in my life actually. my newest axe i have yet to do that to and it's still fine. i got pretty good aim though so i rarely ever wrap the handle on anything anyways. i just do what i do for security just in case.

 

[Philbert]

So if the Fiskars came with a wooden handle would you like it?

Again, a heavier handle would defeat one of the major design features of the Fiskars: concentrating the mass at the 'point of operation'. If they like wood, they can wrap it in that vinyl wallpaper with self-stick backing: comes in a wide variety of wood grains.

Philbert

 

[Big_Wood]

Again, a heavier handle would defeat one of the major design features of the Fiskars: concentrating the mass at the 'point of operation'. If they like wood, they can wrap it in that vinyl wallpaper with self-stick backing: comes in a wide variety of wood grains.

Philbert

liking the wood handle has nothing to do with just liking the looks. synthetic handles absorb all the energy and aren't much if any lighter then wood anyways. synthetic handles are garbage. the only wood they split well is wood that you can pretty well look at with an evil eye and it splits itself.

 

[Philbert]

. . . synthetic handles absorb all the energy . . .

The energy is supposed to go into the wood, not the handle. The whole idea is to use the momentum of the head, at the end of the handle, and not to try and 'push' it through with your arms. I want a handle that will absorb any remaining shock and vibration. Had a 'Monster Maul' with a steel handle that transmitted it all to my arms - hated it.

. . . synthetic handles are garbage. the only wood they split well is wood that you can pretty well look at with an evil eye and it splits itself.

Shoot! Now someone is going to have to go back and explain that to several hundred million cords of firewood that have been split over the last 20+ years around the world! We better get started! Maybe I can paint an 'evil eye' on my Fiskars and get the wood to split even before contact?

Nothing works on everything, but these work for me on the stuff I do, with a lot less effort than with a heavier tool.

Philbert

 

[Big_Wood]

You need to come split some western hemlock. You'll be a changed man

 

[Philbert]

You need to come split some western hemlock. You'll be a changed man

No. No I don't. These work for me on the stuff that I do. That does not make them 'garbage'.

Philbert

 

[Big_Wood]

No. No I don't. These work for me on the stuff that I do. That does not make them 'garbage'.

Philbert

LOL your right man. I was just pushing you a bit. Maybe they're **** for everything I do but ok for the rest of the world.

 

[turnkey4099]

lol. Well I should have said the POS Fiskars works great for what I split. A sweet gum round defeated it though.

Just another example of "no tool is right for everything". Anyone splitting more than a few rounds should be armed with a good ax (X27 has outperformed anything else I tried), about 6 or 8lb maul and at least a 10lb sledge with 2 steel wedges.

I'd no more be without all three of them than I would with just 9/16" wrench in my tool box.

Harry K

 

[Marshy]

liking the wood handle has nothing to do with just liking the looks. synthetic handles absorb all the energy and aren't much if any lighter then wood anyways. synthetic handles are garbage. the only wood they split well is wood that you can pretty well look at with an evil eye and it splits itself.

All do respect, keep telling yourself that.

 

[Big_Wood]

Just another example of "no tool is right for everything". Anyone splitting more than a few rounds should be armed with a good ax (X27 has outperformed anything else I tried), about 6 or 8lb maul and at least a 10lb sledge with 2 steel wedges.

I'd no more be without all three of them than I would with just 9/16" wrench in my tool box.

Harry K

How big is the wood that you split? I do fine with a 4.5lb axe and a 8lb maul. I have a few synthetic handle axes but none of them even compare to the traditional wood handle ones. I bought an x27 just after a joined to see what all the hype was about and gave it to my BIL cause the only thing it worked good on for me was crispy dry 18"- Doug fir. Had to be knot free too cause the x27 didn't go through anything but straight grain.

 

[turnkey4099]

I haven't actually broken a handle in years. Could be I am just too wuss to break them, but..I rarely get overstrikes, or misses. Last one I replaced, the shaft finally shrunk enough and had so many wedges put in it, it just wore out, so I replaced it.

I have a couple axes to rehang, but that's because I bought the bare heads.

I used to go through a handle in my maul in 2 or 3 years. Last year I finally needed a new handle. The one in there had lasted through 2 resets (shortened the head end each time and shaved the handle down to fit. Couldn't shorten any more so off to the sstore to get a handle. compared cost of handle to a new plastic handle maul. Handle half the cost and I had had enough of fitting handles. Came home with the plastic. Still getting used to the different feel.

Harry K

 

[Big_Wood]

All do respect, keep telling yourself that.

Come out with me for a day with your x27. I'll pay for your air fare.

 

[turnkey4099]

How big is the wood that you split? I do fine with a 4.5lb axe and a 8lb maul. I have a few synthetic handle axes but none of them even compare to the traditional wood handle ones. I bought an x27 just after a joined to see what all the hype was about and gave it to my BIL cause the only thing it worked good on for me was crispy dry 18"- Doug fir. Had to be knot free too cause the x27 didn't go through anything but straight grain.

I have split stuff up to 4' diameter, usuallyi runs around 30" and under. I DO NOT use just one tool - that is the stupid way to split wood. Halve a big round with sledge/wedge, then downsize the halfs with either the Fiskars or the maul whichever works better on that particular piece.

I don't even try to split anything with the x27 where I have to go through a knot. I spl1it around the knot no matter which tool I am using. If the knot HAS to be split it goes to the noodle pile.

Most of the people who bad-mouth the Fiskars do it because then think one tool will do everything.

Harry K

 

[Big_Wood]

how many cords do you do a year?. i have a trailer that hauls 2 cords. i've left early and got back late filling it twice in one day a few times already. i don't just use one tool either. i just choose efficient tools for the job and for what i do the fiskars is not. i have no problem with you guys loving that axe. don't bother me none. i just had really high expectations of it because of the way everybody talks it up. kinda the same as the 346. heard that they cut, split, and stack wood for you but owned a few and realize i am a 60cc+ guy. i had big expectations of the 346 and it let me down because of that. much prefer a 357/359. i still own 2 346's but they are beaters.

 

[zogger]

I used to go through a handle in my maul in 2 or 3 years. Last year I finally needed a new handle. The one in there had lasted through 2 resets (shortened the head end each time and shaved the handle down to fit. Couldn't shorten any more so off to the sstore to get a handle. compared cost of handle to a new plastic handle maul. Handle half the cost and I had had enough of fitting handles. Came home with the plastic. Still getting used to the different feel.

Harry K

My anvil on a stick maul has a wooden handle, but, it also has a rubber guard below the head. Some cheap made in mexico maul, but it still works OK. I prefer the fiskars when it is appropriate to use it.

 

[Ambull01]

my wood handle axes split stubborn hemlock pretty good. when i'm doing firewood for money i try to make every step/swing count so if i got some stubborn hemlock i switch to the maul just to take away the wood integrity with the first split. then pop splits off of what's left with the axe. most people want fir which is really easy to split once seasoned so it's just a plinking game. the odd few that order hemlock i should almost charge more though LOL. when i think about energy and time spent sometimes it's better to use the heavy weight then to swing the light weight over and over which is why i own both. i haven't broken a handle in years as well. i buy yellow twine at the dollar store, wrap it around the handle just below the axe head tightly then put hockey tape over that. i think i've only broken 2 or 3 handles in my life actually. my newest axe i have yet to do that to and it's still fine. i got pretty good aim though so i rarely ever wrap the handle on anything anyways. i just do what i do for security just in case.

So your wood handled axe splits hemlock and the Fiskars is an epic fail? Are you sure you're not letting your personal bias interfere with an honest comparison? Like subconsciously holding back on a Fiskars swing or accidentally on purpose striking a different spot. Although, if it's subconscious, guess you wouldn't really know lol.

Again, a heavier handle would defeat one of the major design features of the Fiskars: concentrating the mass at the 'point of operation'. If they like wood, they can wrap it in that vinyl wallpaper with self-stick backing: comes in a wide variety of wood grains.

Philbert
View attachment 390907

lmao. That's awesome! I want to wrap carbon fiber wallpaper around the Fiskars. Give it some flair.

Just another example of "no tool is right for everything". Anyone splitting more than a few rounds should be armed with a good ax (X27 has outperformed anything else I tried), about 6 or 8lb maul and at least a 10lb sledge with 2 steel wedges.

I'd no more be without all three of them than I would with just 9/16" wrench in my tool box.

Harry K

Sledge and wedges take too long. I just cut them with the chainsaw.

 

[zogger]

Sledge and wedges take too long. I just cut them with the chainsaw.

I would like sledge and wedge action for a change of pace once in awhile if they made some BIG wedges. BIG ONES, like two feet long, fat, beefy, tapered nice sharp cutting edge. Something you could wail on with a big sledge and just go through anything. Cut a kerf with the saw deep, slip in mambo brand wedge and WHOMP IT.

Sometimes it is just fun to BFH stuff....