Fiskars x39 "Spalthammer"
- Thread starter trailmaker
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trailmaker
ArboristSite Operative
Lol, I couldn't resist, a Halder maul should be arriving next week. I'll put it through it's paces and report back.
Which one did you order? The one with the straight handle or the one with the axe handle? Did you order from WI. and what is the current cost as the exchange rate has probably changed since I priced one two years ago. Damn! You have started it all again! (I really like my two Helko Splitting axes. But, thats another story!)
Tom
trailmaker
ArboristSite Operative
I ordered the heavier 9lb maul with a straight handle from WI, 177$. It's not like I need another splitter but I'm just really curious about this one. Here's a diagram of how it fits together.
I'm a little worried that the housing is too wide but I guess I'll find out. An interesting feature is that the axe head seems to use another polymer cylinder that fastens it to the housing.
I'm a little worried that the housing is too wide but I guess I'll find out. An interesting feature is that the axe head seems to use another polymer cylinder that fastens it to the housing.
Iron Head
ArboristSite Operative
I don't know but it seems like the Halder and Helko have too many components.
I wonder how they compare against an Oxhead?
I wonder how they compare against an Oxhead?
trailmaker
ArboristSite Operative
I haven't heard any reports of component failure from Helko owners, and I'll put this Halder to work on some nasty Live Oak so I'll find out quickly how durable it is. I hear you though, you really can't beat the simplicity of a traditional setup. A head made from good steel should last decades and the owner can always buy and fit new handles (or even make their own handle). If a Helko or Halder or even a Fiskars handle breaks you need to wait for replacement parts or a replacement axe.
Doug Fir
ArboristSite Operative
I don't see why you couldn't make a replacement handle for the Halder. Based on the diagram you posted it seems like it would be very easy. You could probably find something that is close, which could then be made to fit with a bit of grinding/filing/sanding.
Those Halder splitters look great. I'm really looking forward to your report. I may get the smaller splitting axe:
Halder - Mallets / non-rebound Hammers / Locksmith's Hammers
It would be fun to compare it to my Fiskars Super Splitter. (I have the "original" version with the older style head.) It's not that I am unhappy with the Fiskars, but you can't have too many axes and mauls.
Doug
zogger
Tree Freak
very good point
--it's a good idea to have a good mix of tools, the modern ones are nice, but always keep some old traditional "just works" stuff around that you can repair at home easy.
--it's a good idea to have a good mix of tools, the modern ones are nice, but always keep some old traditional "just works" stuff around that you can repair at home easy.
trailmaker
ArboristSite Operative
I don't see why you couldn't make a replacement handle for the Halder. Based on the diagram you posted it seems like it would be very easy. You could probably find something that is close, which could then be made to fit with a bit of grinding/filing/sanding.
Those Halder splitters look great. I'm really looking forward to your report. I may get the smaller splitting axe:
Halder - Mallets / non-rebound Hammers / Locksmith's Hammers
It would be fun to compare it to my Fiskars Super Splitter. (I have the "original" version with the older style head.) It's not that I am unhappy with the Fiskars, but you can't have too many axes and mauls.
Doug
That's true, a Halder handle should be easy to replace. My wording was a little vague, I meant to say that if the components that hold a Halder or Vario head to the handle break you may have wait for replacement parts and it a Fiskars handle breaks you will have to wait for a replacement axe.
I also have the older Fiskars and will put it up against the Halder. I hope you get that smaller Halder axe, I'd like to hear a report.
Iron Head
ArboristSite Operative
Hey trailmaker, please provide a report on your new toy.
holland_patrick
ArboristSite Member
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trailmaker
ArboristSite Operative
I've got Doug Fir and Live Oak rounds piled up and waiting. As soon as the Halder arrives (should be this week) I'll put it to work and give a report.
thefeckerwest
ArboristSite Lurker
Fiskars X46
If the 46 refers refers to a weight of 4.6 kilograms, which is little over 10 lbs, does that weight refer to the maul head alone, or does it include the handle weight? Can anyone clarify? Maul heads are usually 6lbs. or 8lbs. I have yet to come across a 10lb. maul head, but would be very interested in one.
If the 46 refers refers to a weight of 4.6 kilograms, which is little over 10 lbs, does that weight refer to the maul head alone, or does it include the handle weight? Can anyone clarify? Maul heads are usually 6lbs. or 8lbs. I have yet to come across a 10lb. maul head, but would be very interested in one.
bert0168
ArboristSite Guru
6 months ago and no report?
I guess it didn't work too well..........................:eek2:
Marc
Addicted to ArboristSite
It's a type of polyethylene with very long molecules. UHMWPE is cool stuff. Very high strength to weight, very high abrasion resistance. I believe it has a higher abrasion rating on the Taber test than stainless steel. Low coefficient of friction also. It's the kind of plastic used for a lot of alpine ski bases.
Also, spun UHMWPE fiber is basically what Spectra/Dyneema is.
Uhuh. I wonder how "stable" it is all held together with just one bolt. Must work but with all the hammering it takes I would expect some loose parts developing.
Harry K
double E
ArboristSite Member
Not to sure about a maul that needs it's own parts manual :eek2:
trailmaker
ArboristSite Operative
I forgot all about this thread. I've used the Halder quite a bit now and have some opinions.
Here you can see that the surface area of the poll is huge compared to normal mauls (Gransfors in this case). The huge surface area combined with the fact that its a polymer means you're pretty much never going to miss your target and you're never going to have to worry about shrapnel severing an artery (slim odds I know). I split by myself far from medical help or phone reception so I like these features. The polymer striking the wedge creates more of a thud than a clang which means earplugs aren't necessary. I never liked wearing earplugs plus I always loose them or they get filthy in my truck and then I have to stick them in my ears. The reason why they can make the poll so huge is that the polymer weighs almost nothing. It's shocking really that something that weighs so little can take such abuse. The light poll actually makes the Halder poorly balanced (and thus less accurate) compared to the Gransfors and most traditional mauls (except the Wetterlings).
I'll have some more pics and info shortly
Here you can see that the surface area of the poll is huge compared to normal mauls (Gransfors in this case). The huge surface area combined with the fact that its a polymer means you're pretty much never going to miss your target and you're never going to have to worry about shrapnel severing an artery (slim odds I know). I split by myself far from medical help or phone reception so I like these features. The polymer striking the wedge creates more of a thud than a clang which means earplugs aren't necessary. I never liked wearing earplugs plus I always loose them or they get filthy in my truck and then I have to stick them in my ears. The reason why they can make the poll so huge is that the polymer weighs almost nothing. It's shocking really that something that weighs so little can take such abuse. The light poll actually makes the Halder poorly balanced (and thus less accurate) compared to the Gransfors and most traditional mauls (except the Wetterlings).
I'll have some more pics and info shortly
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trailmaker
ArboristSite Operative
I've had no issues at all with the integrity of the housing, and I've been splitting mostly Coast Live Oak which is a pretty tough wood. The clamshell housing extends quite a ways down which protects the neck very well. Over all I like the Halder but the price tag certainly isn't justified.
Iron Head
ArboristSite Operative
Hey buddy.
How often you got to put the sledge down on that Spalthammer?
I'm thinking if you rely too much on the sledge hammer, you might as well use a wedge.
I use the Oxhead but never pound it in with my sledge yet.
If I have to, I just use my wedge. Just couldn't bare getting my Oxhead all beat up.
But most times when they don't split on the first trike, I just hit a couple times more and they all split.
Thanks for the update.
How often you got to put the sledge down on that Spalthammer?
I'm thinking if you rely too much on the sledge hammer, you might as well use a wedge.
I use the Oxhead but never pound it in with my sledge yet.
If I have to, I just use my wedge. Just couldn't bare getting my Oxhead all beat up.
But most times when they don't split on the first trike, I just hit a couple times more and they all split.
Thanks for the update.
