Flywheel Removal with Threaded Puller versus "Hitting" the Crankshaft End

[Mr Excitement]

The puller that Harley T is talking about in post #7 is simply a short length of bar stock tapped in one end to suit the crank thread.
You screw it down until it touches the flywheel, back it off a turn, the give it a sharp rap with a hammer.
I have 4, M8x1, M10x1, M10x1.25, and M12x1. Huztl have the M8 one for peanuts, and the other sizes can be made by re-drilling and tapping.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned this: Just take the flywheel nut off, get a medium size hammer and strike the flywheel on the edge opposite of the magnets, it normally will pop right off. I've used this method on about everything but plastic flywheels. Be careful to not hit the fins..

 

[benz66]

Seen too many crankshafts with beat up threads to hammer directly onto the crank. I use a center punch with the nut flush and flywheel facing up. No prybars, no string pulling the fw up

You NEVER, ever, beat a steel shaft with a steel hammer. (I am talking generically, not stihl or chainsaw specific. I am not recommending to do this on a stihl flywheel. It is still a free country, for a while) The traditional way is to use a brass drift pinch size of the root of the threads or less. In modern times, an plastic or rubber faced hammer with be ok, but that material also softens the blow. IMHO, the brass drift is still the best. I have used a wood drift on steel shafts in a pinch. It sometimes works, but like plastic, it softens the blow.

The center punch won't damage the threads, but a brass drift is better, as steel on steel can do damage.

 

[huskihl]

You NEVER, ever, beat a steel shaft with a steel hammer. (I am talking generically, not stihl or chainsaw specific. I am not recommending to do this on a stihl flywheel. It is still a free country, for a while) The traditional way is to use a brass drift pinch size of the root of the threads or less. In modern times, an plastic or rubber faced hammer with be ok, but that material also softens the blow. IMHO, the brass drift is still the best. I have used a wood drift on steel shafts in a pinch. It sometimes works, but like plastic, it softens the blow.

The center punch won't damage the threads, but a brass drift is better, as steel on steel can do damage.

Yep. I wasn’t recommending anyone else do it. Biggest thing is never hit the end of the crank directly with a steel hammer

 

[Mad Professor]

Yep, that's why I ordered one. Not that inexpensive ($15.00), but still worth it. And hey, who doesn't like to have more tools - you know, for when you need it.

Better to have it and not need it, then to need it and not have it. I'm in the "not have it" stage, moving into the "have it" stage.

There is similar pullers on ebay for Puch cycles/scooters. They have outer threads on both ends so will fit two different flywheel threads. Check they have matching threads

 

[HarleyT]

Here is the manual for the ms880.

 

[PP4218]

Thanks. The procedure I'm talking about is on page 62. It's different than the other Stihl manuals I read, especially compared to the smaller saws. I'm a big fan of following the book on this disassembly so no additional damage is caused.

 

[HansFranz]

They just don’t want to sell you the tool. The only thing they can’t (more like shouldn’t) sell is the carburetor adjustment tools.

LOL, several years back, I showed up at my local Stihl dealer with the LH-threaded carb limiter removal tool, and he was like "Where did you get THAT?" and I said, "I ordered it through you about 2 years ago!"

 

[HansFranz]

Another issue was I ordered the flywheel remover tool from them, but they canceled the order (told me they can't sell those tools).

Sounds like they're not even allowed to buy one for themselves!

 

[PP4218]

Sounds like they're not even allowed to buy one for themselves!

Yep, and the tools are all over eBay and Amazon. But no, I can't buy one without "mail-ordering" it.

Well, at least someone on eBay wanted my business. And the tool arrives tomorrow, so, patience is the keyword for the next 24 hours or so.

 

[Jasonrkba]

Not all flywheels are easily removed. Some are very stubborn and require heat, penetrating oil, and all the methods mentioned. I use the knock off tool Harley mentioned first but be careful prying under the flywheel to much and the crank can bend. Ive done it. I have an assortment of shoulder bolts with washers using a simple puller. Sometimes a heat gun and light tap either on the side of the flywheel or the puller.

 

[Jasonrkba]

The Tecumseh knock off tool fits a lot of vintage saws.

 

[PP4218]

Why question your research results...... What is your experience level? You clearly sound like you have never done this before?? Physics and experience are what you are seeing on YT.

Taking your project from your bench, to someone else's??? Thats an admission you are NOT qualified to do the work. Tool? Put a screwdriver behind the flywheel, and flush the nut. I simple tap with a brass hammer and it will pop like a zit.

IF you have a twisted key, thats apparent to the eye......

I understand your perspective, but transferring a project to someone else's responsibility can sometimes be a strategic decision. It may be done to bring in additional expertise or resources to help complete the project more effectively and efficiently. This does not mean that the person taking on the project is not qualified to do the work, but rather that they believe they can make the best use of available resources to bring the project to a successful conclusion.

This saw has a plastic flywheel with a metal hub and the unit is 18 years old. Have you ever taken an MS 880 plastic flywheel this age off with your method?

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I understand your perspective, but transferring a project to someone else's responsibility can sometimes be a strategic decision. It may be done to bring in additional expertise or resources to help complete the project more effectively and efficiently. This does not mean that the person taking on the project is not qualified to do the work, but rather that they believe they can make the best use of available resources to bring the project to a successful conclusion.

This saw has a plastic flywheel with a metal hub and the unit is 18 years old. Have you ever taken an MS 880 plastic flywheel this age off with your method?

Not with my method!

 

[ZeroJunk]

Talk about a mountain out of a mole hill. I could have mailed him the tool and already gotten it back by now.

 

[PP4218]

Yeah. I’ve already gotten in the one I ordered. And also found my misplaced one too. So now I have two.

 

[Howsitgoineh]

Seen too many crankshafts with beat up threads to hammer directly onto the crank. I use a center punch with the nut flush and flywheel facing up. No prybars, no string pulling the fw up

I have damaged two saws with the hammer method. Center punch is the way to go.

The threads on the end of the shaft are slightly bent out of shape and the bolt won't thread back on without stripping. Looking for a cheap fix - I haven't got a tap & die set, and I imagine with it being lht it would require a special tool to repair those threads

 

[buzz sawyer]

I have to wonder why other mfgs didn't adopt the captured flywheel nut that Mall used. Didn't Stihl use it for the clutch cover nuts?

 

[nedsim]

I have damaged two saws with the hammer method. Center punch is the way to go.

The threads on the end of the shaft are slightly bent out of shape and the bolt won't thread back on without stripping. Looking for a cheap fix - I haven't got a tap & die set, and I imagine with it being lht it would require a special tool to repair those threads

Thread repair file. For example:
https://www.mcmaster.com/8309A11/

 

[Mad Professor]

Puch flywheel puller does two different size flywheel threads

$19 delivered.