new to me 036 adventure

[flatsfisher]

Good pictures and thanks for measuring things too. Port shapes, and just the piston windows are going to effect flow.

Here are some pics from an OEM 036 cyl I saved from a straight gas episode (free saw). It was ugly to start with (see piston), but cleaned up nice. I imagine this cylinder is from 1995-1996? I wish I'd saved more pictures

It looks like the chamfers on the ports are a little cleaner than your NOS. I'd not worked on them. I did clean up and match the ex outlet to muffler.
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agree yours looks cleaner. I wonder if yours was a Mahle? mine also has a little rough casting inside some of the ports. much better than the AM cylinder though. I am planning to chamfer all edges in the morning with some emery cloth. the chamfers aren't sharp, but they could be better. I may or may not take some time and smooth out the small casting marks in the ports. and maybe polish the exhaust port a little. I understand it is desirable to have a little roughness in the intake. I do have a Foredom flex shaft, burrs and sanding drums but I have little knowledge of porting so not going in that direction.

I had read previously that the Mahle cylinders were cleaner castings than the KS but that the KS cylinders were made of a better-quality aluminum alloy. the consensus was that as far as power and torque they performed the same.

 

[Mad Professor]

the guy on ebay has 7 more of these kits. also, if I did porting I would def look at the base gasket delete but if you do that without grinding the ports you are moving the port timing from OEM. could be a good thing or a bad thing.

Base gasket delete is not going to change timing a lot. Any loss would be offset by more compression. Another thing you can clean up is the piston windows and that is easier than the ports

I got by on the cheap, as I found a NOS OEM piston kit for $40 and saw was free.

These are only shots I still have of the piston, installing cylinder. Make yourself a piston holder. Makes putting the cylinder on a lot easier.

Also, when you got the piston inside cylinder, a piece of yarn around intake can be used to pull it through the tank housing. Then once installed pull a tag end of the yarn and it comes right off.

I use an old tooth brush handle, with end filed to a pointed but blunt point, to help work it through. That works good for get the rings in the cylinder too without marring the piston.

Keep on posting pictures. It will help others later on.

 

[flatsfisher]

that same detail with the string is in the service manual.

 

[Mad Professor]

that same detail with the string is in the service manual.

Yes, learned that from the 038 manual.

One other thing is there is a large nail/spike in the pictures above. That comes in real handy to work the wrist pin circlip into the groove in the piston, using the head. File the head smooth so you don't gouge piston.

 

[flatsfisher]

the re-assembly went well. saw fired right up. put it thru 2 heat cycles. will be cutting with it later today. just pulling the start cord it has more compression than before. needed to go richer on the carb adjustments.

 

[flatsfisher]

Yes, learned that from the 038 manual.

One other thing is there is a large nail/spike in the pictures above. That comes in real handy to work the wrist pin circlip into the groove in the piston, using the head. File the head smooth so you don't gouge piston.

your tip for using the nail worked very well. I think I used a 20 penny. I also had purchased the Stihl kit with the wood block and the ring compressing plastic strip. both worked great. I have a slotted aluminum block I've used for years installing dirt bike pistons, but it was quite a bit larger. thanks!

 

[flatsfisher]

so, put 2 1/2 tanks thru the new top end this afternoon. hot as hell out there. the saw runs much better than before. it has a lot more torque aka grunt. I could actually use the spikes as a lever without bogging (unless I went too hard). even sounds better. I think there is more to come as I purposely set the carb adjusters too rich for break in. I cut up 2 lay down areas like this one. ran like a top as they say.

 

[flatsfisher]

wonder how many generations of whatever lived in here? this was a bottom limb on my 120 or so year old live oak. I call it the old man. fortunately, it's still healthy but several lower limbs like this died years ago and I finally took them off.

 

[Mad Professor]

wonder how many generations of whatever lived in here? this was a bottom limb on my 120 or so year old live oak. I call it the old man. fortunately, it's still healthy but several lower limbs like this died years ago and I finally took them off.
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Glad to hear the 036 is running, better! Should last a long time.

Try to remember to keep the air filter clean. A soft bristle brush will take stuff out and not screw with the filter, can carry that with woods tools, blow out air box when home. Every once in while I'll rinse/spray the box with starting fluid, gets all oily dust out, and keeps new from sticking. If you are cutting all day a spare filter is handy and then clean both back home.


Raccoons like those type of hollows, so do owls woodpeckers bees.

Up north a fischer.

 

[flatsfisher]

there was a bunch of moss packed way back in that nest hole.

 

[flatsfisher]

Glad to hear the 036 is running, better! Should last a long time.

Try to remember to keep the air filter clean. A soft bristle brush will take stuff out and not screw with the filter, can carry that with woods tools, blow out air box when home. Every once in while I'll rinse/spray the box with starting fluid, gets all oily dust out, and keeps new from sticking. If you are cutting all day a spare filter is handy and then clean both back home.


Raccoons like those type of hollows, so do owls woodpeckers bees.

Up north a fischer.

so speaking of air filters and air boxes. in this pic is the airbox air inlet. there is a plate you can snap in to block it off or take out to open up for more air. it has symbols for hot and cold. I assume you block it off for cold weather and open it up for hot weather? I had this open and assume that's where most of the crap on my air filter came from. when I did the NOS top end, I put the shutter back in. would you run this open or closed? of course, it's hot as hell here and super humid. it never really gets that cold here.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Actually block off for hot weather ,as those holes direct warm air from the cylinder to the carb box.
They usually draw air from around the handle.
There is a wire mesh air filer option too, I've contemplated covering one with uni- filter material.
Glad to see you going at it with your "new to you" saw . The rings in mine took about 10 tanks to really set and the saw responded well .

 

[flatsfisher]

seems I always guess wrong. you'd think with a 50/50 chance I'd get it right once in a while lol. I put it back in after the top end switch but for the wrong reason. thanks for the info.

 

[flatsfisher]

seems like the 2 design flaws with these saws is a really crappy air filter design and marginal bar oiling.

 

[flatsfisher]

all this chainsaw overhauling got me guilty enough to give my old Husqvarna a much-deserved cleaning. the thing just runs, so you know how that goes, the squeaky wheel thing. no squeak, no attention.

this saw seems to oil fine, and it has a really nice air filter design. it's a model 340. from what I understand that means 3rd gen, 40cc? made in Sweden and has a Mahle top end

currently sporting a Carlton bar and chain since a few years back.

 

[flatsfisher]

well thought I would wrap this adventure up. finally got all the dead trees down, cut up, stacked and cleaned up the mess. finished a few days ago. took a long time but for one old man not bad. burned all the waste in my big burn pit.

 

[flatsfisher]

 

[president]

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nice work!from another old man!

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Well done

 

[flatsfisher]

thanks!