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have never got one to work.

From what I understand the Dutchman is supposed to rotate the tree by leaving a flat on the under-cut.

If I was to guess, I would think its use is mostly for conifers.
The trees I tried it on were American Elm most likely too much weight and torque.
not sure if this will show it but :popcorn:
dutchman.GIF


Yeah thats the way I have seen it on paper also, I just need to see it done to fully understand it. From my readings on it is for handling the heavy head and heavy side leaners(swing dutchman) I think you drew the step dutchman, and then there is the one where you notch the face and stick a rock or piece of wood in the face so it manipulates the fall in the desired direction. There are some cool methods, they just don't make any sense looking at it on paper.:cheers:
 
Out of curiosity Rope, what do you see wrong with 3c? It's the way I was taught by a GOL certified cutter. I know there's a possible kickback of the log issue, but is there something else I'm missing?

Just not two inch above seat works fine if you don't end up cutting
under the notch. I have tried all sorts of notches but always came
back to common. It is the most forgiving and I can count the times
I have bored on two hands in 23 years and did not need them then.
The common notch is almost fool proof and someone like me need all
the help he can get:laugh:
 
I also think I'm better at directing a log w/out the bore cut...plus I tend to scrape my rakers a bit too far down which makes boring a PITA but there is a bit of assurance I take in having 2 sides of the log attached till I'm ready to nip the back and let 'er flop. To each his own, I s'pose.
 
1b, 2 b-c ,3 b-c
the other angle cuts will bind your bar

No joke, if your bar comes below the notch it can easily pinch it and your saw is at the mercy of the tree. My first 066 mag was totaled by a big oak that pinched it and then the butt end slid off the stump and slid about 10 feet butt first to the bottom of an frozen ditch with the powerhead inbetween the bottom of the butt and the ice.
My advice is stay safely above the center of the notch.
 
The way it's drawn the hinge is too thin along with a possibilty of the tree kicking back off the stump.

I was more focusing on the angle and placement of the cut than the hinge wood. I always leave about 20% hinge. Good eye though, I didn't catch that.
 
I was more focusing on the angle and placement of the cut than the hinge wood. I always leave about 20% hinge. Good eye though, I didn't catch that.

Eyes are why I chose to kerf and then cut 2 inch above seat
cutting under the seat is almost like ripping the cut. I also have
done that let her rip on ice storms a notch won't work until the
ice melts. I use my ht 101 at full jib and pop the dern exploading
things. I don't want to be close to those stumps.
 
Eyes are why I chose to kerf and then cut 2 inch above seat
cutting under the seat is almost like ripping the cut. I also have
done that let her rip on ice storms a notch won't work until the
ice melts. I use my ht 101 at full jib and pop the dern exploading
things. I don't want to be close to those stumps.

Sounds interesting, does the ice hold the tree up?

Bill
 
Sounds interesting, does the ice hold the tree up?

Bill

No it weighs it down bows it like a spring pole and a mere scratch
releases an explosion. I was talking about restoring power and
yes I know the ht 101 is not rated for electricity but the lines
were isolated proper on both ends and the bean pole pines had
to be cut. I would rather come home whole instead of trying to
cut up close to those.
 
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OK,
i remember a storm we had in the early 90's here in NY state. It was the strangest event, everything "preserved" in translucent color casting prisms, and all quiet except for tree branches and trunks saying goodbye, popping their farewells
 
OK,
i remember a storm we had in the early 90's here in NY state. It was the strangest event, everything "preserved" in translucent color casting prisms, and all quiet except for tree branches and trunks saying goodbye, popping their farewells

Yeah, I had to be out in that chit I sure kept up with my hard hat
if you can imagine my meaning. I had to tell the line man we were following
that we would have to cut a line he thought needed cut at 2:00 am that,
we would get it at first light and cut out at the road until then! He did not
like it but I told him I am responsible for my men's safety and we don't have enough light we would cut one tree and four would fall, it sucked.
 
Yeah, I had to be out in that chit I sure kept up with my hard hat
if you can imagine my meaning. I had to tell the line man we were following
that we would have to cut a line he thought needed cut at 2:00 am that,
we would get it at first light and cut out at the road until then! He did not
like it but I told him I am responsible for my men's safety and we don't have enough light we would cut one tree and four would fall, it sucked.

Cutting at night, sounds interesting, lol. What was your light source? It's tough to beat daylight

i was cutting firewood for a maple syrup pan at night using a light. I lost my light source when i cut through the extension cord. damn. probabaly the wrong saw and I could have been nailed.
 
I'm not sure I know anything but I've always used 2b and 3b. Was always told by my dad to cut just a little above my notch. Never really did know if he was right but he's still alive after a lifetime of cutting.
 
3b is what's taught for a "normal" felling situation. 1b is a humbolt and cool. 2b if you look close, has no hinge wood.
 
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I would use 1b,3b and 3c as acceptable felling techniques.

All of the other diagrams use slanted back cuts, the back cut under cuts the notch or the back cut is clean through the hinge wood.
 
As soon as the weather clears

I will try the rock and or wedge thing, I try to fell 50 60 trees a month to keep up with the firewood.

What I have found to work is to cut the humbolt, but on one side cut away the hing.

As I'm clearing land and making fire piles, I like the tree to fall on top of the pile less work, I then just lim & buck and let the green (waste wood) pile up.

swing.JPG
 
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Hazard tree work

NDTreeHugger:

There should be a flexibility for the faller to use several different cutting techniques.
You appear to be on that level.

I would add to this discussion that one part of safety is to be able to make your cuts and have good vertical situational awareness.

Death from above.
An unobstructed object, (assuming no other branch obstruction or air resistance - I.e. a heavy needle free limb), falling from 50 feet takes less than 2 seconds to reach the ground and is going 40 miles per hour.

-------------------

Watch any other cutter and note how much they look up.
Note how different techniques affect the ability to look up.

The plain old conventional is the easiest to maintain a vertical stance and complete the cut.
This is important in the world I come from. Dead trees. Lots of hazards above.

The Humboldt, within any given cutters ability, often means a bent over posture where there is a larger target and greater concentration on the cuts.

This gets worse with open face cutters. They just can't tear themselves away from watching their cuts.

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I didn't say a logger doing a Humboldt couldn't cut with more vertical awareness than a Forest Service guy doing a Conventional.

I would like to suggest that the plain old conventional face is the technique, that within any fallers ability, offers the best stance for looking up.

--------------------

By the way.
If anyone has some photos of any faller doing open face technique and looking up while cutting could you post them?

For some reason it seems like GOL falling originated in northern latitude smaller tree second growth forests with few snags.

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I'm sorry.
I just gotta hammer this point.
We all need to look up more.



All the Best
 

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